tylersfc

I am in fear that the engine that is currently in my fc vert has bad apex seals based on a few videos and a little searching. Can someone help point me in the right direction? What happens is the car's idle fluctuates and feels as if it has no power at all, but free revs and drives. Every time I pull up to a light it wants to die but will start right back up. Anyways I actually got it to idle long enough to make a quick sound clip. I think the IACV needs cleaned or replaced but I don't think it has anything to do with why my engine feels under powered or why it would die

satch

iTrader: (1)

The TPS might be the issue. It has three wires and focus on the Green/Red wire. W/the car as warmed up as possible test the voltage on the Green/Red wire w/key to on. The voltage reading should be 1 volt. If it is not there is an adjustment screw located in the TPS throttle linkage that is about an inch long and surrounded by a spring of the same length. Turn it until the voltage is 1 volt. This is to be done immediately after the car is turned off as the engine being as hot as possible is of extreme importance.

tylersfc

Right on! Yeah I dug up the same information on the tps and I'm excited to test it. I really want to fix the car based on all of its potential but being a broke college student with a full time job sucks. I noticed that the throttle body has 2 saperate port areas. The upper part of the throttle body has no linkage to it and at idle when i manually open it the engine revs up and gives a throaty sound. As it should, but my question is does this upper port operate separately or does it open up along with the larger lower port?

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you are referring to the throttle plates the primary opens earlier than the secondary.

tylersfc

Is there supposed to be a linkage that connects it to anything? My secondaries are just "chillin" There is nothing there to make me believe they open on their own.

satch

iTrader: (1)

There should be. The primary plates open up about 20% before the secondary. And there should be two sets of secondary plates. You might have a throttle body where one set was removed as a modification. If the engine was off and you looked into the throttle body one set of the secondary plates would be full open while the second set would be closed. If you do a search for pics you'll find some.

tylersfc

Good info I'll be right back. I'm going to get some detail pictures of concerns I have with the engine.

tylersfc

Is this how the throttle body should be?




Should these two actuators (5th & 6th ports?) be hooked up to vacuum? I found a lot of capped nipples all around the engine. What was deleted her in this picture?



Lastly what are the green connectors?

*NOTE* I am in the process of searching. I am aware of the search bar including google..I post these up as I'm searching. If you're annoyed by this then please do not post.

tylersfc

This is what my idle sounds like

http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/f...rent=002-6.mp4

satch

iTrader: (1)

In the first pic it appears that the Double Throttle Diaphragm has been disconnected from the secondary linkage. The diaphragm is supposed to close one of the sets of secondary plates when the engine is cold to prevent the engine from being juiced too much when still cold. If you had these particular plates removed then it would be irrelevant that the linkage was disconnected from the diaphragm. If you remove the intake tube from the throttle body to inspect, you'll see if the first set of secondary plates were removed or not.

In the second pic the metal tube has a small rubber hose removed that runs downward to the exhaust which creates backpressure that allows the 5th and 6th ports to work.




The third pic is of two check connectors. One w/two wires is the Initial Set Coupler used in setting the idle speed. The other plug is used in pulling trouble codes. http://www.banzai-racing.com/

And using the "advanced search" feature will result in a more specific search.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The fluctuating sound could be from a port job or the TPS sensor is not set correctly which would result in a fluctuating idle or the throttle body was modded. To set the TPS, warm up the car as much as possible, which actually takes a while. When the idle has dropped to 750 rpm you'll know you're there. Then measure the voltage on the Green/Red wire of the TPS pigtail w/key to on and it should read 1 volt. If not use the screw encased in the one inch spring seen in your first pic to adjust the voltage to one volt.

tylersfc

Beautiful this helps a lot and you've saved me so much time! I always find myself side tracked reading into another section of the engine. Sorry that you've been slaving away doing my dirty work haha