How can I make a rotary run with a lot of power N/A?

I know that it can be done, I'm just curious, this whole lack of pistons thing threw me off completely.

What are some of the pluses of working with wankels over regular motors?

 

Define "a lot of power."

Different intake ports will dictate the power potential of a NA rotary. This can be anything from stock ports to peripheral ports.

The "pluses"...it's mostly preference, but a rotary has fewer moving parts & a simpler design that lends itself to a lot of do it yourself modifications (namely porting).

 

I'm shooting to run a 11 second quarter mile in a non turbo 83.

 

I was also thinking about a supercharger...


Any thoughts?

 

A supercharger takes you from NA to forced induction. If you want to run 11s you'll need to gut the car, (or start with a 1200 lb chassis) and run at least a peripheral port if not a a good sized turbo. Imho, you're drowning in your own wet dream. The answer to your question isn't simple so I suggest doing lots of reading. Start with the following links.

http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual

http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html
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I know that there is a lot that I have to learn before I start this.

I know that I have to do some degree of testing at the track, and that somethings are variable.

Do you have any ideas?

 

Ideas, sure, I'm full of ideas, or mayb it's something else I'm full of. First one is you're not going to hit 11 sec 1/4s NA. Only chance for that is with a peripheral port, probably a 3 rotor and a very light non-rotary body.

You ask what some of the pluses of a rotary are, how about a well built engine will last through most of the racing season, where a piston engine usually requires a rebuild or two. It has 3 moving parts and is relatively simple to build. There are many options on how to build, port, fuel and power levels to strive for.

I could go on and on but I suggest you start reading and soaking up every bit of info you can. Then, if you decide your goals are reasonable and attainable, the forum can help you get there.

 

Alright, I have done my reading.

I've found out that the Camden's are more looks then they are performance, and the whole porting thing.

I was thinking a street port and running a turbo from... I have no idea who.
But then again, if there are super chargers out there for the rotary I dunno.

I know that when its actually track time I will be running on slicks also.

What would you, the people who know more, suggest?

 

OK, the only reasonable way you are going to run 11 seconds is with a turbocharged engine.

On a lightened 1st gen, 11 seconds takes about 400HP which is fairly easy to get. A street port, standalone and big turbo upgrade. The kicker here is that you will want to start with a different engine. You'll want to swap in an S4 or S5 (preferably S5) TII engine.

 

Alright.
Is the second gen an alright platform as well?

That would be the single turbo 13B out of a 3rd gen right?
For the engine I mean.

 

The 2nd gen is a great car as well an that same 400HP will get you 11 seconds. Start with a TII to make things easier.

The "best" engine is a matter of opinion in some ways. Since you are starting with a 1st then then you may as well find the REW from a FD as it is the most evolved of the 13B. You will be ditching the twin turbos for a single and you'll need to make your own mounts.

 

alright.

what is the major fault with the camden superchargers?

 

A lot of money for less power than you can get with a stock HT-18 turbo.

 

The fact that they suck.

 

You can get a lot of power from out of the exhaust by losing the pre cats for a downpipe and upgrading the main cat, porting the engine and/or even going for a 20B motor. I think the highest output is around like 255hp, but I bet you'll have less problems with it than a turbo II. I wanna get some reliable power outta my N/A while there's not too many problems to deal with. =/

 

On a street port, a realistic goal for an NA 13B is 200HP.

If you go into more radical porting, you can make more power. Bridgeported, 300HP isn't too hard but you will need to design your own intake to match (ie. ITBs). Peripheral ports can make 400HP but will be stupid loud. You'll find that the exhaust volume goes up very quickly as you try to make power in NA form, as the idle has to be raised and the fuel economy disappears.

A 20B install is a whole new kettle of fish. A $10,000+ kettle with about $10K of fish thrown in.

 

Going big power on n/a? Do it right. $60,000 on a 26b setup.

 

Old time hot rodders used to run 10s with the Flathead Ford, a small archaic motor with less power potential than the rotary. It would be possible to run very fast with the right engine mods, a light car, and most importantly: low gears. Changing the gear ratio in the rearend allows the engine to spend more time in its best rpm range. Rotary engines make almost all of their power at 4000 rpm and above. A radical change in gearing would dramatically increase acceleration (at the expense of fuel economy).

 

Of course, you could run 10s easily if the vehicle was stripped to a shell and the engine appropriately modified.

At that point it's a full drag car and not really an RX-7 anymore. If that is the original poster's thing, then more power to him. But it will be unstreetable in every sense of the word.

 

seriously the only way to go hahaa

 

Whatever you do with the engine, make sure you focus on the suspension, gearing and tires. I see way too many cars at the strip running way slower then they should for the amount of power they make.

As for the power, if you don't have the funds to do a engine swap or turbo setup then just use nitrous. It's cheap and reliable and from the posts it sounds like you're just concerned with the drag strip so why not. You'll end up with a more streetable car in the end too.