My turn signals stopped working and so did my gauges(tach,fuel,oil,temp,batt)
06-09-10, 04:16 AM
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24/Seven
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My turn signals stopped working and so did my gauges(tach,fuel,oil,temp,batt)
1985 FB3S 12A GS 103K Currently Stock (w/ no mods)
Was on the freeway yesterday in semi-heavy traffic, Stop and Go, when all of the gauges in my cluster gave out. My turn signals stopped working too. I was worried that my battery gave out but the car stayed running and got me home in one piece. I checked my fuses and swapped out the bad ones but that wasn't my remedy. My headlights still work and my brakes and reverse lights work fine too. The only thing the goes on when when I turn the key on the ignition before I start the car is "battery light" and the "Exhaust system overheat light".
I was literally just driving in normal conditions when everything went out, and all I heard was click* click* click*, the sound of all the gauge meters shutting off. I didn't hit a pothole, didn't run into anything that would've gave the car a huge shock. A friend of mine brought up that I shift at high rpms so that bad habit may have assisted the problem. I also have a leak (oil leaking onto my exhaust manifold) so he also brought up that the leak interfering with certain wiring may have also been a possibility. She still starts up fine.
I'm about to open up the dash and dive in to see what I can find and hunt out the problem. Any clues to what I should be looking for when I get in there and other possibilities you guys think might be the problem. Please let me know if anyone has also run into a similar problem and how to get it fixed. Thanks for your help.
Was on the freeway yesterday in semi-heavy traffic, Stop and Go, when all of the gauges in my cluster gave out. My turn signals stopped working too. I was worried that my battery gave out but the car stayed running and got me home in one piece. I checked my fuses and swapped out the bad ones but that wasn't my remedy. My headlights still work and my brakes and reverse lights work fine too. The only thing the goes on when when I turn the key on the ignition before I start the car is "battery light" and the "Exhaust system overheat light".
I was literally just driving in normal conditions when everything went out, and all I heard was click* click* click*, the sound of all the gauge meters shutting off. I didn't hit a pothole, didn't run into anything that would've gave the car a huge shock. A friend of mine brought up that I shift at high rpms so that bad habit may have assisted the problem. I also have a leak (oil leaking onto my exhaust manifold) so he also brought up that the leak interfering with certain wiring may have also been a possibility. She still starts up fine.
I'm about to open up the dash and dive in to see what I can find and hunt out the problem. Any clues to what I should be looking for when I get in there and other possibilities you guys think might be the problem. Please let me know if anyone has also run into a similar problem and how to get it fixed. Thanks for your help.
06-10-10, 09:10 AM
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Engine, Not Motor
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To clear a few things up:
-your friend is ignorant
-none of the gauge wiring is anywhere near the exhaust manifold except for the water temp
-FIX THAT OIL LEAK before your car catches fire
Anyway, if the meter fuse is fine, then at this point you will probably have to pull the cluster and verify you have 12V at the approprite pins on the harness. Also you can run a continuity to a few of the senders. The wiring diagrams in the FSM and Haynes manual will be needed for this.
If you have the proper signals on the proper wires, then you are looking at an issue with the cluster. Perhaps something as simple as a cold solder joint on the harness plug.
-your friend is ignorant
-none of the gauge wiring is anywhere near the exhaust manifold except for the water temp
-FIX THAT OIL LEAK before your car catches fire
Anyway, if the meter fuse is fine, then at this point you will probably have to pull the cluster and verify you have 12V at the approprite pins on the harness. Also you can run a continuity to a few of the senders. The wiring diagrams in the FSM and Haynes manual will be needed for this.
If you have the proper signals on the proper wires, then you are looking at an issue with the cluster. Perhaps something as simple as a cold solder joint on the harness plug.
06-10-10, 07:37 PM
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24/Seven
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All fixed now and super happy about it. Thanks for your help and direction. My plugs got loose so it turned out not to be as bad as I thought it was going to be. Much Appreciated!
