My setup. But what unnecessary things can I remove from the engine?
#1
Rotary Kids
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Location: Rocky Mount, NC
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My setup. But what unnecessary things can I remove from the engine?
I recently came into possession of an 86 TII conversion. I traded an automatic Miata for it. I wanted a TII and he wanted a Miata. It was perfect.
It's a JDM S4 engine. The car ran really well but the turbo died a little prematurely. There were no water lines hooked up for turbo cooling! Totally blocked off. I dunno why. Coolant lines back in place, got an S5 turbo and manifold. Sent turbo to BRN for stage 1. Installed it on the car.
I'm planning on running an R-Tek 1.7 with 720 secondaries. I have a Innovate LC-1 Wideband and a digital boost gauge going in as well. A walbro 255 rewired to make sure she's getting plenty juice and plenty of fuel and it was suggested to me by Bryan at BNR that I run an adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator. As minor changes in the fuel pressure could provide important (though limited) tuning abilities with the 1.7. He said he ran one for years like that. There's also an aftermarket downpipe and full Corksport Exhaust.
That's about it.
I started pulling things off of the engine such as the air pump, split air pipe, ACV and a couple of other things that I KNEW were not necessary to keep the car running. Emissions is not a problem for me. But there's sooooo many solenoids and vacuum lines that I can't help but think of as potential boost leaks or problems.
How much of this crap can I pull off of the car with a stock ECU? I know my bridged six port FC ran with NOTHING at all with just a SAFC and some adjustments in the throttle body components. Once she warmed up she ran fine. But I'm not sure about this turbo engine. (Aux ports just stayed open) I found the write up about removing emissions and things but I'm more interested in what HAS to stay.
I'm not in a quest for big power. Bone stock power was fast enough for me but I'm really wanting to make it as simple and reliable as possible with just a bit of extra kick. 200 WHP would make my day 100 times over.
If anyone could provide some help, I would really appreciate it. I live in the country and have dial-up still. =/ Otherwise, I'd probably search a LOT more.
Thanks everyone. =]
It's a JDM S4 engine. The car ran really well but the turbo died a little prematurely. There were no water lines hooked up for turbo cooling! Totally blocked off. I dunno why. Coolant lines back in place, got an S5 turbo and manifold. Sent turbo to BRN for stage 1. Installed it on the car.
I'm planning on running an R-Tek 1.7 with 720 secondaries. I have a Innovate LC-1 Wideband and a digital boost gauge going in as well. A walbro 255 rewired to make sure she's getting plenty juice and plenty of fuel and it was suggested to me by Bryan at BNR that I run an adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator. As minor changes in the fuel pressure could provide important (though limited) tuning abilities with the 1.7. He said he ran one for years like that. There's also an aftermarket downpipe and full Corksport Exhaust.
That's about it.
I started pulling things off of the engine such as the air pump, split air pipe, ACV and a couple of other things that I KNEW were not necessary to keep the car running. Emissions is not a problem for me. But there's sooooo many solenoids and vacuum lines that I can't help but think of as potential boost leaks or problems.
How much of this crap can I pull off of the car with a stock ECU? I know my bridged six port FC ran with NOTHING at all with just a SAFC and some adjustments in the throttle body components. Once she warmed up she ran fine. But I'm not sure about this turbo engine. (Aux ports just stayed open) I found the write up about removing emissions and things but I'm more interested in what HAS to stay.
I'm not in a quest for big power. Bone stock power was fast enough for me but I'm really wanting to make it as simple and reliable as possible with just a bit of extra kick. 200 WHP would make my day 100 times over.
If anyone could provide some help, I would really appreciate it. I live in the country and have dial-up still. =/ Otherwise, I'd probably search a LOT more.
Thanks everyone. =]
#2
Top Down, Boost Up
iTrader: (7)
A BNR stage 1 is a 300 whp turbo, so using only 720 secondaries is really the bare minimum. Bumping the fuel pressure up as Bryan suggested is the only way to avoid maxing those injectors out. I'd start out with wastegate-spring boost pressure, check out WOT AFRs, then slowly ramp up. I've seen dyno graphs at 270+ whp at only 8 psi with similar turbos.
For emissions removal, you're really just going to have to search those terms. The ACV, all emissions solenoids, emissions rack, air pump, split air pipe, cats, etc... can all come out. You will need to run new fuel lines if you take the rack out with the hardlines. I would keep the PCV/charcoal canister system intact.
For emissions removal, you're really just going to have to search those terms. The ACV, all emissions solenoids, emissions rack, air pump, split air pipe, cats, etc... can all come out. You will need to run new fuel lines if you take the rack out with the hardlines. I would keep the PCV/charcoal canister system intact.
#3
Rotary Kids
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Holy crap. I wasn't planning on really exceeding the stock wastegate pressure of the S5 turbo. The engine has factory porting but 270WHP at 8psi, though? Jesus. o.O That's encouraging, though. I managed to find the super-simplified vacuum diagram for the S4 FC. And here I was thinking the simplified FD routing was an improvement. There's hardly anything left in the FC. =X
#4
Top Down, Boost Up
iTrader: (7)
Your 200 whp goal could be had with a stock turbo at 6-8 psi with exhaust and intake.
Here's a BNR stage 1 at 11 psi: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...8&postcount=68
There's a lot of hybrid turbo info in that thread: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=bnr&page=2
Here's a BNR stage 1 at 11 psi: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...8&postcount=68
There's a lot of hybrid turbo info in that thread: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=bnr&page=2
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