My 87 streetported TurboII problems
02-04-12, 01:19 PM
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My 87 streetported TurboII problems
Have the car for a while but never get a chance to figure out what the problems are. I have a 87 TurboII streetported, about 20,xxxmiles ever since the rebuild. There's a couple problems with my car.
1) the battery always gets drained out. I pulled the negative cable while car was running and it shuts down so I thought it was the alternator. So I swapped it out with a reman. , still the same thing. Measure current on the new alternator, it comes out good, so somewhere is shorted...where could it be?
2)Whenever I start up the car, I always need to push the gas paddle. Sometimes it would flood the engine if I pump the gas paddle too much, could it be the leaky injectors or faulty spark plug wires?
Sorry for the noobie questions, thank you for the helps!
1) the battery always gets drained out. I pulled the negative cable while car was running and it shuts down so I thought it was the alternator. So I swapped it out with a reman. , still the same thing. Measure current on the new alternator, it comes out good, so somewhere is shorted...where could it be?
2)Whenever I start up the car, I always need to push the gas paddle. Sometimes it would flood the engine if I pump the gas paddle too much, could it be the leaky injectors or faulty spark plug wires?
Sorry for the noobie questions, thank you for the helps!
02-07-12, 06:58 PM
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1) For a battery drain... Remove the negative battery terminal, set a multimeter to AMP current (mA), one prong to the negative car terminal, one prong to the negative battery terminal, BE SURE ALL ELECTRICAL LOADS ARE OFF, now see if the multimeter is reading very very little current (mA) or zero... If it is displaying more than it should be, remove the 60A BTN fuse from the engine fuse box (so that you can open the door of the car without the lights coming on), go into the car and start pulling fuses from the fuse panel by your feet, one at a time. If that fuse doesn't get the multimeter to display zero, then put it back in and try another fuse. You can also try pulling other things... The way I found my drain, was by unplugging my turbo timer. The multimeter then displayed zero, and that's how I knew that was the problem.
2) What size injectors do you have? (Stock injectors for your car are 550cc) - Do you have an aftermarket or stock fuel pump? Do you use an aftermarket EMS or are you using the stock ECU?
2) What size injectors do you have? (Stock injectors for your car are 550cc) - Do you have an aftermarket or stock fuel pump? Do you use an aftermarket EMS or are you using the stock ECU?
02-10-12, 01:41 AM
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According to the FAQ... "86-87 13B Turbo, low square center, 550cc, tan, 195500-1370"
Look to see if they're tan in color. If they've never been cleaned they may seem darker in color because of dirt, dust, or whatever. You can always ask whoever rebuilt the engine.
What about...? ^
Look to see if they're tan in color. If they've never been cleaned they may seem darker in color because of dirt, dust, or whatever. You can always ask whoever rebuilt the engine.
What about...? ^
02-11-12, 01:26 PM
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It has a microtech lt10s. I picked up the car for $2600. I doubt it has stock injectors then, the seller claims its pushing roughly 375whp. I didn't save his number. It's been almost 6 months, I didnt have time to play with it until lately.
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02-15-12, 02:17 PM
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I usually start to diagnose electrical drains by first removing any aftermarket wiring or accessories anywhere in the car, no matter what their purpose. Stereo, alarm, lighting, etc.
In your case, who is to say that the microtech computer is wired up correctly? Maybe instead of using switched power they wired it up to battery power, and the computer itself is pulling your battery down?
In your case, who is to say that the microtech computer is wired up correctly? Maybe instead of using switched power they wired it up to battery power, and the computer itself is pulling your battery down?
02-15-12, 05:04 PM
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Check to see if your fuel injectors are stuck open...
Strap/secure the injectors to the fuel rails. Unbolt and remove the fuel rails. (There's an illustration of this in the 87' FSM. "Fuel and Emission Control Systems" 4B-74) - Obviously you do not remove the injectors or any of the fuel lines. Be sure to set some rags or something under the injector's fuel outlet nozzle, to absorb fuel in case they are stuck open. Jumper the yellow fuel pump test connector at the passenger side strut tower, near the AFM. Turn the key to "ON"... Not to "START". You'll hear the fuel pump running... Now go check the injectors to see if they are spewing/leaking.
If you do not have a Factory Service Manual, here's a link to some FSM's: http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual#secondgen
02-16-12, 12:21 PM
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I usually start to diagnose electrical drains by first removing any aftermarket wiring or accessories anywhere in the car, no matter what their purpose. Stereo, alarm, lighting, etc.
In your case, who is to say that the microtech computer is wired up correctly? Maybe instead of using switched power they wired it up to battery power, and the computer itself is pulling your battery down?
In your case, who is to say that the microtech computer is wired up correctly? Maybe instead of using switched power they wired it up to battery power, and the computer itself is pulling your battery down?
NO dyno sheet, but he has a receipt for the rebuild and parts.
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