Well, in order to keep it street legal you are going to be very limited on parts due to safety and noise restrictions.

First of all, check out the rules for the time attack class that you plan to enter and see if it is compatible with a street car. Unfortunately, I don't do any drift-type events so I can't help you with that. Anyway, if you feel that you can't make a dual-use car, then you are going to need to decide whether to build a street car or a dedicated race car.

I am not really up on the FD or time attack, so be sure to start a similar thread in the 3Gen section to help fine-tune your list once you check the time attack rules. However, I can help you out with some basics on some of the items on your list:

Race ported 13B-REW engine - A "street port" (mild port or extended port) would probably work best for your situation. Here is a primer on porting, hp numbers are for non-turbo engines:
http://www.turborx7.com/portingpictures.htm

3mm ceramic apex seals - This requires machining of the 2mm rotors to fit the old 3mm-sized seals. Some people think it is not worth it, so you may want to research this more. Ceramic seals are good, but everybody will argue which brand is the best, lol. It is probably best to just tell your engine builder your goals and budget, and then have him figure out what he wants to use to get you there.

Slotted Rotors / Hawk racing pads (HP) - Hawk HP pads are a mild street/autocross pad that will turn to slag on a real track (Daytona, Sebring, etc.). If you use Hawk HP on the street then you would want a separate set of pads (Hawk Blue) and rotors for racing. If you want just one pad/rotor set, then you would need to go with something with a wider heat range like EBC Yellowstuff. It is probably best to see what other time attack drivers are using.

Apexi power FC and Commander / Tuned ECU / Fuel computer / Remapped ECU - These are basically the same thing. Talk to your tuner about what he will need to tune your engine.

Air gauge - A what? Anyway, it looks like you are listing every gauge on the planet. If you want a whole new racing set, then you may want to just replace the stock gauges with a nice racing package. The AiM MXL dashes are fairly inexpensive as far as gauges go (good individual gauges are about $200 each, so do the math), and they are used by top GT racing teams. Stack and other brands make similar gauges. Let your tuner know if you want something like this so he can choose an EMS that is compatible, thereby reducing the required senders and wiring.
http://www.aimsports.com/products/mxl-chooser.html

1000 cranking AMP battery (rear mounted) - 1000 AMP is for big stereo systems. Most race cars have a crappy little motorcycle type battery that barely cranks the engine, lol. Anyway, do not buy any battery components until you read your racing rules.

Digital electronic fan controller - Waste of money. If you want to control the fan, then just get an EMS with this function. Once again, let your tuner figure this out.

5-point Kevlar clutch - I'm not sure what a "5-point" clutch is, but as mentioned earlier, carbon clutches are the new thing. I am not sure if you want to spend $6,000 on a fancy carbon clutch pack when a $500 ACT clutch pack will probably work just fine. However, that is up to you.

ACT extreme pressure plate - This would be part of the $500 clutch listed above.

Aluminum manifold heat shield - What for?

Cat back exhaust / 3'' down pipe / 3'' mid pipe / High flow main catalytic conveter / Apexi N1 single pipe cat back - Replace this list with this term: "full exhaust".

External wastegate - This is for aftermarket turbos.

Boost controller - If you get a standalone EMS, it may already have this function.

750cc primary injectors / 1650cc secondary injectors - Let your tuner decide on the fuel injectors.

Rotary performance fuel rail - Maybe not necessary for your application.

Tokico 5-way adjustable struts (front and rear) - Tokicos are more of a street brand that aren't usually so great with coilovers. I would go with Koni, Bilstein, or whatever race-grade dampers seem to work well on FDs.

Ground control coilovers with set spring rates - Good choice.

Stainless steel rear strut bar - Does it need to be stainless?

HKS turbo timer - Complete waste of money unless you have a crappy Mexican or Chinese Ebay aftermarket turbo and you were too cheap to spend the extra $30 for the wet bearing. It also makes your car easier to steal, and adds another point for possible electrical failure.

Wetech dual EGT gauge - I have not heard of that brand, do you mean Westach? Anyway, keep in mind that rotary engines run very hot. You will need a gauge that goes up to at least 1600F. However, you may not want to even bother with this, as your tuner will already have his own guage, and will just need to install bungs for the sensors. The same goes for an AFR gauge.

Bled brakes - You would want a good street/race fluid like ATE Super Blue and Typ 200. They are the same thing but different colors so you can alternate them and know that your brakes are fully bled when the fluid changes color. Just make sure blue brake fluid is legal in your state.

K&N filter Air Intake / Greddy Airinx dual air filter with aluminum piping - These both serve the same function, so you are going to need to choose one or the other. Check in the 3Gen section to see what they like.

Large diameter aluminum intercooler tubing / Blitz front mount intercooler kit / Greddy aluminum 3 piece piping for intercooler - Another duplication

Bucket seats - Oh boy, don't use that term on this forum or people will think you are 80 years old, lol. Anyway, you will probably want "sport seats" or "racing seats". The difference is that sport seats are usually comfy and usually recline, but are not approved by FIA for racing. Racing seats are not as comfy and don't recline, and are usually approved by FIA for racing. If you see anything approved by TUV or MOT, they are just the European and Japanese versions of DOT, which means regular street driving as opposed to racing.

4-point harnesses - Check your time attack rules before buying anything. Also note that racing harnesses are usually designed to attach to the horizontal part of the roll cage behind the seat and then pass through the racing seat. If you don't have a roll cage and racing seat then the 4-point harnesses may not work properly. The seat, harness, and roll cage all work together, so you should match them up when shopping for parts. As for roll cages, also check your racing rules for specifications. Otherwise, Cusco is crap, Autopower is fine, and custom made to SCCA specs would be the best.

* When I say "tuner", I mean a professional who is trained and experienced at adjusting the fuel/air mixture and ignition timing, and is bonded and insured against screwing up your car. I do not mean some guy who bolts on chrome parts and has great ideas for paint jobs. For some reason the "tuning" magazines have warped the meaning of tuning, so I just wanted to make that clear.

Yeah, that's probably about right, maybe a little more if he gets bushings, mounts, nice paint, spare wheels/tires, fire system, roll cage and padding, and other typical race stuff. I think a race shop could put it together in as little as 2 months if they had a lot of experience building similar cars.

He would be much better off just buying a used race car, but I have not yet had an OP realize that so I stopped trying, lol. Here are some examples of used race cars sold for cheap:
http://www.sccabb.com/forum_posts.as...&PN=1&get=last
http://www.timeattackforums.com/foru...nationals.html

 

Wow. I don't know how to thank you. Your post has helped me see what is needed or what should be changed in my list.

I found many people having trouble with the 2mm seals from rotary aviation and that it 'wears down the housings' so I think that I'll go with the 3mm.
Are Hawks really that bad for time attacks? I had no idea...
By Air gauge, I mean fuel/air ratio. I got it mixed up with something else.
I did mean Westach, sorry about it.
I won't confirm for every part, but as a whole, I am truly appreciative of what you have done. Thanks again.

 

The brake compound depends how fast you will be moving around the track and how many laps you will complete. Hawk HPS is a street/autocross pad, and HP+ is an aggressive street/autocross pad. Neither of them are going to stand up to hard track racing. My 1Gen RX-7 had Hawk Black pads, and my racing partner slagged them and cracked the rotors during a driving school, so there is no way I would even consider HPS or HP+ for a real track. The question is how hard you will be racing around the track. If you are just going to compete in a 1-lap parking lot time attack event (autocross), then I think the HPS or HP+ would work just fine. I'm going to try EBC Yellowstuff next year on my 88 coupe to see how I like it.

 

That's interesting, I saw on the time attack forums that Hawk blue or HP are ok for racing. I'll look into the EBC Yellowstuff ones then. Thanks for the recommendation. I had no idea that the Hawks had such low heat stamina. Saved me a headache.

 

as someone that uses the HP+ pads on the street, i can vouch for what he said. i can also see what he said about them not being REAL racing pads though.