When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
First time posting on the forum, very new to rotary’s. I’m looking at purchasing an FC however it has low compression. I’ll put the details of the listing below.
Bridgeport 13B
- Microtech LT8 Computer with Controller
- HKS Twin Plate Clutch
- HKS BOV
- Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator
- Big garrett turb
- 50mm turbosmart wastegate
- Running Series 7 FD Rx7 motor and box
- Aftermarket Front mount, oil cooler etc
- Oil Metering Pump delete, runs on premix through the fuel tank
Has been sitting for the past 4 years, motor will crank but won’t start.
Seller provided pictures of a compression test showing:
(in psi)
20 48 30
at 244
38 28 43
at 371
Apparently back in 2020 he was able to get it running with a tow start.
Wondering if there’s anything else that can be done pre purchase to possibly check the extent of work that needs to be done to get it runnning. I don’t really want to buy it if I need new housings and rotors ya know.
Nothing you can do pre-purchase. They could come back after soaking and running but there's a reason why it has sat so long. It's going to take a rebuild. Depending on the condition of the parts, it's going to cost some money. The other aspect is that it's a bridgeport, so that is going to be more $$$ if you keep in that way. 2-3K USD is my guess if you do the work yourself but without seeing the engine apart it's just a guess.
Last edited by KansasCityREPU; Oct 23, 2024 at 08:44 PM.
Nothing you can do pre-purchase. They could come back after soaking and running but there's a reason why it has sat so long. It's going to take a rebuild. Depending on the condition of the parts, it's going to cost some money. They other aspect is that it's a bridgeport, so that is going to be more $$$ if you keep in that way. 2-3K USD is my guess if you do the work yourself but without seeing the engine apart it's just a guess.
More to keep bridgeport if the housings need replacing to have it machined again? Honestly wouldn’t mind not having the Bridgeport to make it more drivable.
You could get by with as little as 1000 USD for a standard rebuild kit if all the hard parts are OK. This would get a seal kit and apex seals. The wild card are those housings and iron plates.
More to keep bridgeport if the housings need replacing to have it machined again? Honestly wouldn’t mind not having the Bridgeport to make it more drivable.
Yes - that porting cost extra and it can be hard to do without experience. I've never done it.
I just saw that big ole turbo. Normally a turbo isn't ported too much. When a turbo lets go, they can cause a lot of damage to the housings.
Last edited by KansasCityREPU; Oct 24, 2024 at 02:44 PM.
That car looks really clean, which gives me hopes for a rebuildable motor. I'd jump on it, it's pretty hard to find FC's that clean now days and even if you could find a clean one it's a lot of work to get it to the state that one's in. It's sick asf.
Yes - that porting cost extra and it can be hard to do without experience. I've never done it.
I just saw that big ole turbo. Normally a turbo isn't ported too much. When a turbo lets go, they can cause a lot of damage to the housings.
I’ve been looking into potential causes of the low compression, and because it’s somewhat consistent across all 3 faces on both rotors, could that mean that the centre iron needs replacing? Or is there another reason I’m overlooking.
I’ve been looking into potential causes of the low compression, and because it’s somewhat consistent across all 3 faces on both rotors, could that mean that the centre iron needs replacing? Or is there another reason I’m overlooking.
I'd be leaning more to apex and side seals being stuck. That's what you're hoping for anyway. I'd put some Seaform/diesel fuel in the leading plug holes, rotate it 1/3, until they all get a decent amount. Seafoam will breakdown carbon. The trans fluid will clean thing up and lubricate. Some folks like tran fluid which will work but swell rubber gaskets. Let that site for a few days and test again. After sitting, spin the engine over with the strater and get all that stuff out (disable the ignition, don't want sparks). Spinning the engine with the starter will also help in getting the the seals unstuck.