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Old Oct 10, 2009 | 03:26 PM
  #1  
ffilemyr's Avatar
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FFilemyr
 
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Westminster
Question lots of fun stuff

hi.. this is my first post..

I have a 88 fc na convertable Love the car this is my 2 nd one. other one was from my teenage years. any way.. Im doing a lot of work to the car now (a lot to me)
1. have installed a cat back, springs, shocks/stuts, jaco fire-ing system

have a bad gasket between exhaust manafold and first pipe so i bought a RB header bout a year ago so that will be install now... so my questions are

1. i know there is a post on removing air pump & air control valve could some one please send me that link.. i know i need to buy the block off plate for the air control valve

2. can i remove the switching actuators (one is stuck anyway) solenoid valves, and any other bull **** that go with that.. one that note can i remove the rod that controlls the primary and aux port and just both open all the time or do i need to fix them?

3. im also cleaning up all of the wiring harness, dynamic chamber & ext manifold (paint and new gaskets and any vacume hose that i can see. any thing else i should do with that much if the motor apart?

4. last question for now.. when needs to happen with split air pipe with the header goes on? and the connections on the motor it self? Plug up connections? there are 2 a small one right above the header and one larger to the left side in the back

I thank you for any help ..
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 10:30 AM
  #2  
Aaron Cake's Avatar
Engine, Not Motor
Tenured Member: 20 Years
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by ffilemyr
have a bad gasket between exhaust manafold and first pipe so i bought a RB header bout a year ago so that will be install now... so my questions are
1. i know there is a post on removing air pump & air control valve could some one please send me that link.. i know i need to buy the block off plate for the air control valve
There's nothing much you need to know. Remove the air pump, replace the ACV with a blockoff plate and then cap all the nipples left over.

You will also need a duel belt alternator pulley.

2. can i remove the switching actuators (one is stuck anyway) solenoid valves, and any other bull **** that go with that.. one that note can i remove the rod that controlls the primary and aux port and just both open all the time or do i need to fix them?
You should leave this system functional unless you want to lose about 25% of your torque below 3500 RPM.

4. last question for now.. when needs to happen with split air pipe with the header goes on? and the connections on the motor it self? Plug up connections? there are 2 a small one right above the header and one larger to the left side in the back
Remove the split air pipe and cap all the appropriate nipples. Now you need to figure out how to get pressure to open the aux ports. So you should simply leave the airpump in place and use it to actuate the ports.
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 12:34 PM
  #3  
w.sen's Avatar
In a Bucket
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From: ocala, florida
Lots of low end power loss when removing 5th and 6th ports... trust me I'm driving an 88 na like that..
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 06:34 PM
  #4  
ffilemyr's Avatar
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FFilemyr
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 57
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From: Westminster
MD

Thank you for all the help..
with removing the switching actuators im not closing off the 5th and 6th port they would be open all the time just asking why would i lose power would that be more air flow?
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 10:15 AM
  #5  
Aaron Cake's Avatar
Engine, Not Motor
Tenured Member: 20 Years
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Joined: Feb 2001
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by ffilemyr
Thank you for all the help..
with removing the switching actuators im not closing off the 5th and 6th port they would be open all the time just asking why would i lose power would that be more air flow?
With the ports open there is too much port timing at low speeds, so you get poor port velocity and reversion into the aux ports as the compression stroke begins.
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