mynewhaircut

Hello my name is Jon and I just got home from picking up my first rx7. Before I can sleep I need to get some questions out. Bare with me. I have read through the FAQ of the 2nd Gen and have a rough idea of a plan of attack on this issue, but I would like to put it out there for something I haven't thought about doing as I am a previous piston owner. Now the overall issue with the problem is not cut and dry. Its either an electrical issue or a fuel issues. I'm leaning towards electrical as it feels like its trying to flood itself when I accelerate and when put in a heavy load issue like a mountain etc. the car seems to not want to accelerate past 25% throttle in every gear and at any speed, obviously even worse when trying to go over mountains. Even while going down the mountains there is a difference but minimal, it will rev up higher but I still cant punch it as once the car gets passed its "point of less resistance in the rev range" (sorry for the weak explanation) it sort of falls on its face. I plan on knocking out the 60k scheduled maintenance list first. Aside from plugs, wires, all filters and all liquids being replaced, where else should I touch on while I am purchasing the parts.

Thanks in advance.

P.S. the engine feels like its still pretty strong, 129k miles on it though. I picked it up and drove back 151 miles first thing after it had been sitting for a month.

89DangerRanger

I would check for a bad ground, does the car hesitate around 3800rpms? Seeing how your car is an s5 it might be in limp mode due to a bad oil metering pump.

mynewhaircut

I could not confirm the limp mode this second, but definitely wasnt going above the rpm stated just falls on its face. My friend that went with me to get the car mentioned the same thing as he bought a 01 civic that had "tranny issues", which turned out to be a super clogged catalytic and had reverted to limp mode.

mynewhaircut

The thing is generally with limp modes ive dealt with it usually doesnt let you rev past a certain point. If i give it full throttle it does not die and will rev past where the issue starts but sputters and jumps all over the revs.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Limp mode would hinder speed..that is why they call it LIMP mode..you get to LIMP home...if you can..
Take the "piston stuff" and toss it out when you start trying to diagnose your RX7...especially an S5!
They are notorious for Limp mode due to the Electric OMP.
I know..it may be something else.blah,blah,but when you see more threads on Limp mode that any other s5 problem threads you think that Mazda just did not think when they said it is an Upgrade!

Have you pulled codes yet?

mynewhaircut

im currently at work right now, been here since 5am, so if im not dead tired when i get home ill try to pull codes and get back to you with what i find.

mynewhaircut

Well it looks like possibly the PO decided he hates looking at check engine light and has taken out the bulb or its blown. But no check engine light when key is turned at anytime. So first chance i guess ill have to see why there is no check engine light. Slept all my daylight away today.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Ground the Orange wire in the check connector near the battery and w/key to on the codes will be displayed if the bulb works.

mynewhaircut

Orange wire? The write up said just stick some wire(i used speaker wire) shove it in the one wore green connector and ground to the negative side. Did that(thoigh ill admit as since i havent owned an rx7 im not 100 percent on where the check engine will light up at, but simple guess woulf be where all the rest light up. 8 red alerts light up(belt, hatch etc etc and one yellow illuminated on to the right of them but none that resembled any check engine light ive seen.) so bulb is blew or pulled out, right?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The check connector has but one wire and it has a color.

mynewhaircut

Thanks for that video, this place is already coming off more helpful then the other car enthusiast groups i used to frequent. Yeah the check engine light has never lit up. So its either been pulled or blown. Thanks again for that video, my roommate and i are going to jump in there and see why i dont have a check engine light today at some point. Ill update after hopefully with some codes. How easy is it to get behind the display?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Be careful in removing the front panel that surrounds the unit. It should pop up at the front if you slide a screw driver underneath. Fastens in a couple of places I think. The unit itself has a couple of small screws. And you might have a warning unit off of a JDM, which I don't believe they had a check engine light.

mynewhaircut

No the bessel around it is already broken, about to go outside and check if its just pulled out. Since its broken in two pieces ill assume its been tampered by a PO.

mynewhaircut

So issue has been found and unresolved. Looks like there is corrosion on a few of the electrical points in the back.





Which would explain why when key is turned to on. I see.

satch

iTrader: (1)

There is a plug with three wires in a check connector located near the leading coil. One wire is Black/White and the other two are Yellow based. You can pull codes manually with the aid of two led bulbs wired together as shown in the following link. This process works for both the S4 and S5.

mynewhaircut

which following link?

satch

iTrader: (1)

http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/error%20codes.html

mynewhaircut

Thank you for that, im ordering a new dash warning panel for $40 shipped but in the meantime i think ill build one of those from the link just to have incase.

mynewhaircut

As an update, i really havent done a thing but check the shipping status on my parts coming in. Though while waiting here is a few shots of the voyage home. 151 miles in limp mode. Tractor trailer drivers driving by going up mountains looking like -.- .





As a side questions. My interior is pretty much all whole and in good shape, missing cover over the automatic seatbelt on drivers side(belt mech is broken as well so will be removed and just going to go with harnesses), but I have noticed most everyones interior shots show them missing the vent cover on the left side of the steering column on the dash. Is that a known broken part or something? easily misplaced?

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you're in limp mode then it would probably be caused by the Metering Oil Pump. If that were the case then you need to stop driving the car or you could end up really damaging the engine.

mynewhaircut

yeah i only drove it home. i knew something was up when i purchased it, which is why the price was nice part of it. The engine in it, is not going to be in it for long (or might depending on the situation with funds) This is a second car for me, i drive a civic daily so no its parked in the garage and is being stripped right now of body panels needing replaced etc etc. If I can get it back up and running to its potential, it might see a little daily driving till a less expensive DD can be acquired and my honda sold to help fund. This car is going to be a headache and huge learning experience but there is no drastic time frame for it. Body needs work, car needs painted, cancer in the rear wheel arches has pretty much pushed my hand in having to go with fender flares or wide fenders regardless.

mynewhaircut

installed the new warning panel. pulled the codes 13, 15 and what i believe to be 20.

13 - Pressure Sensor (intake manifold pressure)
15 - Oxygen Sensor - Feedback cancelled
20 - Metering Oil Pump (MOP) position sensor

On the other end while i was out there i wanted to see why my one headlight doesnt move at all and found a blue wire taped up coming from lights motor.
(crappy picture but the object just floating in the center of the picture is the blue wire i speak of)


took another picture of some plugs i found bundled together some not connected. Not sure if they should be or what they might be affecting.



That picture is of things bundled behind the driver side headlight. I have to work the rest of the day so thats as far as I can go today.

mynewhaircut

Satch i need your soothing words of guidance sir. Ttt.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The only thing I could possibly help you with pertains to your headlight problem, which appears the least of your problems. W/respect to the error codes you pulled, the OMP is telling you why you are in limp mode, so until you can fix this the other two error codes are rather irrelevant. Fixing the OMP requires servicing another OMP, but it isn't always that simple as a problematic OMP will eventually ruin the ECU causing both units having to be replaced.

The plug to the retractor motor would be round and has four wires. Back, White/Green, Red/Yellow and Red/Blue. White /Green has constant voltage, Black is the ground, R/Y has voltage w/the headlight down and Red/Blue has voltage when the headlights are supposed to be up.

RRR Motorsports

check the connections on the omp located under the alt....