Well here's the Skinny on the N/a Upgrades thus far, aluminum radiator, aluminum thermostat housing & thermo and silicon hoses. We have had our Fc for about Hmmm.. 4 - 5 months and we want to keep it N/A due to the fact it only has 43,000 miles. So far we have been thinking about Upgrading the Intake system & the Exhaust system. I heard thats all you can really do to a N/A anyways is this True Y'all ?? I'm really hoping there are some Trix or pointers that y'all wouldn't mind sharing with Me in order to upgrade my power ?? Hope to hear from all the rotor heads real Soon! Thanx

 

Cut a hole on top of the air box for a better air flow. putting a cone filter or anything is useless so why spend that extra money. full exhaust, eliminate the rats nest and air pump and all that crap. vent your hood for better air flow through the engine bay. im sure theres more, but thats what i can think of right now

 

Wire your 5th and 6th ports open.

 

hey mate, here in nz we do n/a rotaries hard out, the best we find is webber carbs, a 48mm or if you want to get a bit crazier a jetted out one to 51mm. more fuel, then put a k&n filter on top, goes nicely. a decent exhaust will do the trick, do you not want to open it up and port it? a 48mm will do nicely with stock ports.im guessing you have electronic fuel injection? or standard carb?

 

nice car very clean, you'll find the biggest power/performance increase from installing a header and catback exhaust if you haven't already.

There are many different upgrades for na's you can upgrade the intake, clutch, and flywheel, get some dtss eliminators as well as some strut bars, get an aftermarket ignition etc.

with a full exhaust and intake you should make close to 180+ hp (since yours is an s5 an s4 would be slightly lower.)

 

i heard if you keep your 5th and 6th ports open, you loose low end torque. not sure if thats true but, just seen it on another post in here

 

you do, not sure where this misconception comes from that wiring them open makes more power... the car in stock form opens them at 4k RPMs anyways, with them open full time you lose low RPM response.

so lets stop with that rumor already!

 

I find that a simple tune-up will bring back power that has been lost.

 

1. Tune-up including making sure the auxiliary ports actuate when they should. Wiring them open is just silly.
2. Open up the exhaust. Cats are very restrictive and kill power.
3. Lightened flywheel. Car will accelerate faster without making more power.
4. GTUs rear end gearing or undersized tires. ^See above.

Other than that, most power mods are relatively high cost for little/unknown gain. Major power mods involve engine disassembly and major porting work.

 

Yeah you do loose a bit on the bottom but my car really starts pulling at 3k. Whereas before it didn't seem to come alive until about 4500.

 

Awesome, Thanx y'all. I definitely need to let all of this Info marinate, Haha I decided on some coilovers as of now just because i kind of got stuck on the upgrading our rotary. As soon as i install them its back to the engine bay.

 

Very pretty! congratulations on a VERY nice looking car. My suggestions to make the most, reliable, easy/cheap power from na without opening the motor for port work:

-Leave the stock air pump actuating the 5/6 ports.
-Atkins 5/6 port sleeves ($60)
-leave the stock mechanical fan on there. E-fan is pricey, hard to get one big enough, big load on alternator, and less reliable than stock fan
-Install a CDI ignition, $150 or so, stronger spark, a few more mpg, maybe a few HP.
-Make sure plugs and wires are in good shape
-Full racing beat exhaust will help a lot. If doing it piecemeal, start with a header for the most gain. Buy QUALITY, cheap stuff will rust out.
-Leave the rat's next, ACV, BAC, etc. Clean and adjust them per FSM or how-to’s, replace all the vac lines with silicon. Taking it all off will a) not improve power b) reduce driveability
-Install a bunch of ground wires. Kits are out there, or just buy 2-3ft lengths from Pep Boys and ground motor, trans, frame super well.
-Test voltage to fuel pump (search forum) and rewire if needed
-while you're at it, inspect and replace fuel filter if needed
-drop-in Amsoil air filter in stock airbox
-Consider a SAFC, around $100 used. The stock ignition is pretty strong and the ignition map is very good. FC's run rich stock
-For minor gains, ceramic coat header/wrap intake pipe to reduce underhood temp and keep incoming air slightly cooler
-When all above is done, have a reputable shop tune it. They will generally have to take out 5-20% fuel.
-resist the urge to get big heavy wheels, makes it much slower due to rotating weight. If anything, invest in lightweight 15/16” rims and performance tires
-Suspension: Prothane pro-kit, rear-steer eliminator, Racing Beat bars, etc etc. Endless possibilities. It is a lot of work for some of it though, must have access to press/etc.
-Run 20/50 Castrol GTX dino in the engine, change every 3k max, keep it topped off. Run 1/2oz/gal nice 2stroke oil in the gas. Replace trans fluid with Redline (I have had phenomenal results with Redline smoothing worn trans). See here for benefits of running premix: Protek-R | Pettit Racing Pettit will be happy to sell you fancy stuff, but I’ve not seen evidence that any good 2stroke oil will not have the same result. Pettit does not refine their own, for sure!

Above should get 150hp or so at the wheels

Enjoy the car and take it to Cars and Coffee events

Use the heck out of the forum, esp 2nd gen archive

 

Hoping to upgrade my NA as well.
So far it seems like swapping out the rear (diff) gear for one of a higher numerical value is one of the best values. Better acceleration without compromising your engine's reliability.

 

Wow Acroy! Thanx. What a healthy amount of info i have just received, v e r y much appreciated thanx again. Can't wait now to get back to the 13b.

Well friends since upgrading to some new Coilovers i have recently also purchased a full set of Tll brake cylinders which are getting powder coated (red) plus the needed rebuilt kits. All fresh rotors etc. To go along with the setup. Also my girl as gotten installed a little something,something in the interior part of the Seven, I'll let y'all take a good look for yourself's Lol

 

7RO i definitely want to upgrade to the LSD. Have you gotten the chance to change youe diff ?

 

k&n oem drop in filter header back exhaust(Rb is quietest) for now for power

 

Yeah I'm totally upgrading to a full exhaust next month.. I'm thinking corksport header & racepipe, etc.. as far as the k&n drop in goes. What do you think about a intake setup with the k&n cones?? Any difference.. or just for show?

 

nice steering wheel

 

I want your dash carpet!

 

take out ur motor fan and get an eletric fan =P ur car wwould gain like 5-10 hp =P

 

Parasitic drag is so over rated.

 

I did you can see it in the picture above.. ford Taurus electric fan wirh relay etc..

 

BRIDGE PORT IT AND PUT A COLD AIR INTAKE AND A CAT BACK EXHAUST ON IT.(sorry for caps)

 

Major rotor, It comes with stock cold air intake... bridge port huh? Hmmm.. not sure what this is yet.

 

honestly best bang fort your buck is an exhaust.