blockedwizard

Im looking to install a killswitch to the car to eliminate to prevent flooding and to eliminate the need to get out of the car to pull the egi fuse out when it floods.

I've searched this forum and others and can not find a clear answer on which wire to cut into.

I have an 87 NA, I have a 25a switch, the appropiate female connectors, 16 gauage wire and butt conncetors, see photo below.

From what I've found I cut into the middle black and white wire in the black box with the yellow base underneath the steering coulmn towards the passenger side.

I looked at the mazda manual and I think its the open circut relay or the fuel relay.

Im just looking for a clear answer from somebody who has this installed on the car, Thank you.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

if pulling the egi fuse is the trick for deflooding then why not just wire ur switch into that circuit?

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

The best way to do this, either for an easy deflood or security option is to use the wires connecting to the EGI fuse, underhood.

Cut one (the ground, not the hot) wire, run your switch, inline, and go from there.

Your flipping the switch to 'off' will effectively be the same as A) pulling you EGI fuse and/ or B) pulling the plug on your pump/ injectors.

blockedwizard

sounds good, Im sorry if I sound like an idiot, but how do you tell which wire is the ground?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

DO NOT switch the EGI fuse for many, many reasons.

I don't have my Haynes handy but all you need to do is put the switch in series with one of the coil wires on the underdash fuel pump relay. I don't recall the colours but you can find them with a meter.

Or just follow this:
http://rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen...nflooding.html

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Oop. My bad, Aaron.

Disregard, man.

If Aaron chimes in with a better way to do it, chances are it's a MUCH better way and you should just listen to him...

I would've suggested putting a toggle, inline, to the fuel pump, not the EGI, but since you were going with that option, I figured I'd let you run with it.

blockedwizard

So is the photo i include the fuel pump relay, if not where is that inrelation to the thing with the black and yellow base?

Sorry for so many questions.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

This is from the link that Aaron supplied:

"Fuel cut off switch:
The "band aid" cure for cars which flood consistently is to install a toggle switch which will control the fuel pump. Note that the only cures for consistent flooding are cleaning/rebuilding injectors, rebuilding the engine, or finishing rebuild breakin. I like to install my cutoff switch right behind the keyhole in the lower column surround, but anywhere within easy reach will work. I use a toggle switch available at radio shack for about 2 dollar, called a rocker switch. IT is solid black, very slimline(maximum protrusion 1/8") and fits perfectly. You can use any toggle switch however.

1) Obtain the following: 2 prong, 2 position toggle switch, at least 2 feet length of 16-14 gauge wire, 2 female speaker terminal connectors(quick connect), 2 wire taps(vampire taps) and wire crimpers/strippers. Vampire taps join one wire beside another, when a metal strip gets pushed down connecting the 2 wires. A clean way to connect 2 wires.

2) Remove column cover and install the toggle switch in its position(or wherever else you want).

3) Locate the fuelpump relay under the dash. Located between the radio and the steering column, it is a black relay with a white, 5 wire plug.

4) Cut the fuelpump control wire: of the 5 wire plug, cut the middle wire of the 5.

5) Run wires from the toggle switch to each of the ends you just cut and connect them all. Which wire goes to which end does not matter, there is no polarity here, only continuity.

6) Put everything back together. Your switch is now installed.

7) To operate it, figure out which way is on and which is off. I like to orient off downward.

8) With the car running, turn the key off normally. Remove your key, and leave the switch alone.

9) When restarting, flip switch OFF, insert key, floor throttle, crank car, and it will likely start up. IMMEDIATELY as soon as the tach needle passes the 750rpm line flip the switch on. IF you're quick enough the engine will stay running."

This is your friend (each entry, R.click and 'Save As'): S4 FSMs

Alternatively, you could inline the pump, itself. You just have to look at the fuel-sender's leads and go from there (they're mounted on top of the fuel-sender, in the very back, probably under a bunch of carpeting.)

R. Gambino

I had an 86 NA.
The car was guaranteed to flood if the engine was started and not allowed to reach operating temperature.
This would happen if the guys in the garage, where it was parked, would move the car to get another vehicle out from behind it and then shut it down while it was still cold. Upon restarting, even a day later, it was certain to be flooded.
The problem was supposed to be a programing defect in the ECU.
The solution was to put a toggle switch inline with the fuel pump power. When you shutdown cold, DO NOT kill the motor with the ignition switch..... shut down the pump and fuel starve it.
The alternative was to kill the pump on the next startup and crank until you burned off the excess fuel.
The first option is preferable as it prevents the flooded condition to begin with. This is all only necessary when you need to kill the motor while it is still cold.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Wait.... What?

There are so many things wrong with that option of fuel starvation, in a rotory engine...

R. Gambino

The car had 182k on that motor when I gave it away to get an FD.
There is NO problem shutting a rotary or for that matter, any other engine down from idle by using fuel starvation.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That's actually the proper way to use a fuel cut switch. Hit the switch and let the engine die. As opposed to the wrong way, which is to only use it when the engine has flooded.

Then again, fuel cut switches annoy the hell out of me. Just clean the injectors...

blockedwizard

Waiting for my pulsation damper and some ther goodies to arrive, so I will be taking out my injectors and sending them to marren in CT. Any one have any past experience with Marren, they're prices don't seem to high, and there close to me here in NY.

If the injectors don't solve the problem, am I gonna have to rebuild or am live with the flooding, which will mean I'm gonna have to use the switch?

R. Gambino

The FC's problem was the factory ECU programming not leaky injectors.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, people think that, but no, that's only a minor part of the issue.

FCs in good shape did not flood easily. I've never had an FC that flooded because my cars were always kept in good tune. Clean injectors are very important. After 10 years, they are worn out and flow terribly. They drip, stick and leak.

slitherz90gxl

I thought the flooding problem was just because of the way the rotary engines burned fuel?

On topic, I've had a fuel cut off switch in both of my rx7's because the seals were blown. I say seals because I'd say every seal imaginable is non-existent (except the apex seals).
I ran them both the same, but to different locations.
One I ran a wire from the fuel pump to underneath my cd player, one from the battery, and then a ground on one of the interior screws (metal area). <--- This was already done and is a bad idea. If your hot wire from the battery works lose somehow and touches your cd player while you are driving. It will catch fire, fry all your electronics, and burn your leg.... Good times.
2nd, I ran it all and make a spot beside the fog light switch for it.
I also drove the first car for 2+ years like this so I can vouche for not worrying about fuel starvation.