Intercooler Questions
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You'll need to use an adhesion promoter. There's no way that you'll be able to sand all of those fins properly. And with that much temp change, the paint will flake.
Unless you're just going to rattle can it, that might work. Either way, make sure to soak it with wax and grease remover and let it dry before you spray.
Unless you're just going to rattle can it, that might work. Either way, make sure to soak it with wax and grease remover and let it dry before you spray.
Lowe's should have the adhesion promotor, the Zone should carry radiator paint. Should be set with that. As for cleaning, I would imagine soaking it with brake cleaner and allowing it to dry for a good while would do the trick.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Prove to me that the effect is nothing more then marginal. Show me datalogs on the same setup both before and after painting.
Well we could look at other heatsinks outside of automobiles for data. In the computer industry, you sometimes do see copper coolers in different colors so the paint in that application can't cause that much of a hassle.
Intuitively though, I would think cooling would be effected. Maybe it is indeed marginal but I guess thats relative.
Intuitively though, I would think cooling would be effected. Maybe it is indeed marginal but I guess thats relative.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 106
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From: Las Vegas and San Jose
i don't know my fmic setup yet, but i know that im shooting around 600hp
Last edited by Kolokoi; Jan 21, 2009 at 01:02 PM. Reason: more detailed information
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
I'd suggest you start with a smaller and less expensive power goal to keep the cost and failure down. 300HP makes for a mighty fun setup, will cost 1/4 of what 600HP will, and will teach the basics.
Any coating on the intercooler will inhibit heat transfer. The thicker the coating, the less the heat transfer. Granted, the reduction factor of heat transfer will be minimal. I had an old guy rebuild my radiator after I hit a deer in the old box van. He said the difference between standard rattle can paint and the specially formulated radiator paint was about 10*.
Personally, I thought his estimate was a bit high. If one were to have the IC cleaned well, shot with wax and grease remover, blown dry, then a light coating of the radiator paint, one shouldn't have any problems.
Only downside is the black will absorb more heat from direct sunlight. This should only present a potential heat issue when the engine is first started after sitting exposed to the sun. Once air begins to flow through the core, it will perform as an unpainted one. Since the backside of the IC won't need paint to hide it, the effect will be even less.
Short answer, buy the radiator paint and paint it if you need the stealth look.
Nice car, btw, why no engine bay pics?
Personally, I thought his estimate was a bit high. If one were to have the IC cleaned well, shot with wax and grease remover, blown dry, then a light coating of the radiator paint, one shouldn't have any problems.
Only downside is the black will absorb more heat from direct sunlight. This should only present a potential heat issue when the engine is first started after sitting exposed to the sun. Once air begins to flow through the core, it will perform as an unpainted one. Since the backside of the IC won't need paint to hide it, the effect will be even less.
Short answer, buy the radiator paint and paint it if you need the stealth look.
Nice car, btw, why no engine bay pics?



Minus all body work pics.








