idle problem
They don't react well to overheating. If it shut itself down that is a bad thing, if you caught it you may be in luck still. The most common failures are side seal and apex seal in overheats.
Be sure the oil and coolant levels are correct first.
When you spin the motor over does it rotate freely meaning no compression. If so you will need to remove the spark plugs and inject 10cc's of ATF, (transmission fluid) into each plug port (good time to clean the plugs). Replace the spark plugs and then crank the engine. A noticeable increase in compression will result if the APEX seals have any chance of expanding. Stay on the starter if it sounds like the compression is returning, if not stop. remove the plugs again and inject 5cc's more of ATF in each plug port then replace the plugs and try again. The light weight ATF forms a temporary compression seal on the APEx seals and conditions them forcing them to swell. The ATF will burn readily (it will pass thick white smoke) once (if) it fires up so warn the neighbors.
If it does try to fire up stay on the stater until it can run on it's own, get the RPM's up to 3500 and try to fluctuate the engine speed in this area until the exhaust begins to clear up. Be sure it comes up to operating temperature before shutting it down. I would advise driving it around before shutting it down so the engine has a chance to get a load put on it.
Chances are if it it will not create compression and fire up after cooling off then you did permanent damage to the APEx seals and and overhaul is the only way out. Same applies if it passes blue smoke, blue smoke being oil means side seal failure.
Hope it helps.
Be sure the oil and coolant levels are correct first.
When you spin the motor over does it rotate freely meaning no compression. If so you will need to remove the spark plugs and inject 10cc's of ATF, (transmission fluid) into each plug port (good time to clean the plugs). Replace the spark plugs and then crank the engine. A noticeable increase in compression will result if the APEX seals have any chance of expanding. Stay on the starter if it sounds like the compression is returning, if not stop. remove the plugs again and inject 5cc's more of ATF in each plug port then replace the plugs and try again. The light weight ATF forms a temporary compression seal on the APEx seals and conditions them forcing them to swell. The ATF will burn readily (it will pass thick white smoke) once (if) it fires up so warn the neighbors.
If it does try to fire up stay on the stater until it can run on it's own, get the RPM's up to 3500 and try to fluctuate the engine speed in this area until the exhaust begins to clear up. Be sure it comes up to operating temperature before shutting it down. I would advise driving it around before shutting it down so the engine has a chance to get a load put on it.
Chances are if it it will not create compression and fire up after cooling off then you did permanent damage to the APEx seals and and overhaul is the only way out. Same applies if it passes blue smoke, blue smoke being oil means side seal failure.
Hope it helps.
They don't react well to overheating. If it shut itself down that is a bad thing, if you caught it you may be in luck still. The most common failures are side seal and apex seal in overheats.
Be sure the oil and coolant levels are correct first.
When you spin the motor over does it rotate freely meaning no compression. If so you will need to remove the spark plugs and inject 10cc's of ATF, (transmission fluid) into each plug port (good time to clean the plugs). Replace the spark plugs and then crank the engine. A noticeable increase in compression will result if the APEX seals have any chance of expanding. Stay on the starter if it sounds like the compression is returning, if not stop. remove the plugs again and inject 5cc's more of ATF in each plug port then replace the plugs and try again. The light weight ATF forms a temporary compression seal on the APEx seals and conditions them forcing them to swell. The ATF will burn readily (it will pass thick white smoke) once (if) it fires up so warn the neighbors.
If it does try to fire up stay on the stater until it can run on it's own, get the RPM's up to 3500 and try to fluctuate the engine speed in this area until the exhaust begins to clear up. Be sure it comes up to operating temperature before shutting it down. I would advise driving it around before shutting it down so the engine has a chance to get a load put on it.
Chances are if it it will not create compression and fire up after cooling off then you did permanent damage to the APEx seals and and overhaul is the only way out. Same applies if it passes blue smoke, blue smoke being oil means side seal failure.
Hope it helps.
Be sure the oil and coolant levels are correct first.
When you spin the motor over does it rotate freely meaning no compression. If so you will need to remove the spark plugs and inject 10cc's of ATF, (transmission fluid) into each plug port (good time to clean the plugs). Replace the spark plugs and then crank the engine. A noticeable increase in compression will result if the APEX seals have any chance of expanding. Stay on the starter if it sounds like the compression is returning, if not stop. remove the plugs again and inject 5cc's more of ATF in each plug port then replace the plugs and try again. The light weight ATF forms a temporary compression seal on the APEx seals and conditions them forcing them to swell. The ATF will burn readily (it will pass thick white smoke) once (if) it fires up so warn the neighbors.
If it does try to fire up stay on the stater until it can run on it's own, get the RPM's up to 3500 and try to fluctuate the engine speed in this area until the exhaust begins to clear up. Be sure it comes up to operating temperature before shutting it down. I would advise driving it around before shutting it down so the engine has a chance to get a load put on it.
Chances are if it it will not create compression and fire up after cooling off then you did permanent damage to the APEx seals and and overhaul is the only way out. Same applies if it passes blue smoke, blue smoke being oil means side seal failure.
Hope it helps.
scarey, hopefully that's not the case. I don't think it's overheated because it's like 20 F. I started it up, it goes to 1.3k and then dies. I think blue smoke came out the first crank, can't really tell, it's really light smoke and might have been white. After the first crank, few to little smoke came out. Can it be anything else? This car only has 17k miles on it period. It's been siting here for awhile and I took out a lot of things to get to the turbo and port it. I also took out the air pump.
1) Apex fail on a car with 17k miles?
2) Any intake leak would have this same affect?
3) Has anyone else have this problem after airpump removal?
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well you should check that airpump out see if its all hook up right and not bad, plus just might need a tune up and get it a little start off, and maybe your engine might be flooded but im not there to see
deff check your TID for cracks. mine did the same thing when my TID was cracked. so just take 5 min and check it. Also follow the steps in the FSM step by step and most of the time it will help you fi or at least identify what the problem is
sounds good man, thanks for the info, lol at least now I can have hope it's a tid crack =)
The pipe where the old BOV went to was the problem. Started it and it goes to 3k and seems to want to idle. Thank god! Don't have time to see if it holds idle yet, way to much engineering hw. Will update asap
hey guys i got the same problem going on the shop down the street says my injectors are bad the car starts and sometimes i can rev it and it will die sometimes i cant even do that sometimes it starts sometimes it doesnt but when it does its for less than 5 seconds does that sound like it couldd be injectors ?? and ideas they would be greatly appreciated and is there any way to test the injectors??
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Yes, that could very well be the injectors. Especially if the car has sat for a while.
There is no real way to test the injectors other then taking them out of the car and sending them out to an injection shop to be tested and cleaned.
There is no real way to test the injectors other then taking them out of the car and sending them out to an injection shop to be tested and cleaned.
yes the car did sit for a while in another neighbor hood i saw it all the time until i asked the kid about it it probably sat for about 2 or 3 years so that does sound like the injectors then? im just short on money and dont wanna get something its not but thanks alot i appreciate it
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
2 or three years? Then you have a lot of work ahead of you:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/unstore.htm
The injectors absolutely need to be serviced.
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/unstore.htm
The injectors absolutely need to be serviced.
I could have used that link when I got mine. The GSL-SE I just got had been sitting for 3 years in a barn but other than some low idle issues due to the throttle plates are closing too far I have not had any real problems and have been using it as my daily driver. I got the plugs replaced and got the mouse nest out of the aircleaner and changed the oil, but it seems like it is almost too good of condition.
~Spike~
~Spike~
well my last rx7 sat for about 5 years i didnt have to do anything exept change the oil and fluids and plugs it started right up but everything works fine except the injector and haha i wish i would have had your post before i pulled my injectors out but i need to buy new ones anyways


