So I bought my first Rx7 (series 5 convertible 64,000 miles)
this last week, and it idles rather high
anywhere from 1000-2500..
after warmed up she'll sit around normal to 1500

prior owner replaced quite a few parts to alleviate the issue which began after he installed an aftermarket exhaust. He replaced the tps, maf, o2, and replaced the cpu. he admitted to buying a cheap O2 sensor and the check engine light is on when the car is below 2500rpm, after that the light switches off.

Also, when in neutral, when the clutch is somewhat depressed the revs come up a little bit, never had a car that did that before..


Thanks for the help!

 

Read the check engine error code. This is a simple system and there are many write-ups on how to do that. I'll see if I can find one and provide a link. (EDIT: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ERRORC...KI/kerror.html)

As far as the neutral-clutch question goes, that could be related to very old and "thick" transmission oil that needs to be changed. When in neutral with the clutch engaged (pedal out) the engine is turning over some tranny components within the oil. When you disengage the clutch (pedal depressed) the tranny components no longer rotate within the oil.

 

Vacuum leak, sticking cold start cam, bad/disconnected BAC valve. Could be one, could be all three.

 

I just pulled codes


12- Throttle position sensor full range
32- Solenoid, Switch Valve
33- Solenoid, Port Air Valve

would anyone know the values my multimeter should show when testing the TPS?

 

Download a free copy of the factory service manual from one of the links in the 2nd gen FAQ for that information.

 

Downloaded the service manual and I appreciate the quick responses.
The TPS is reading incredibly high at idle (narrow @ 3.88 and full @ 2.89 when they're supposed to both be between .8-1.2)

looks like I'm buying a new one.

could the valve codes come up due to TPS being off?

 

You might want to pick one up in the For Sale section of the forum or on eBay. New units are in the $300 range. You may get lucky and pick up a good used one and save a few hundred dollars. First, make sure you are checking and adjusting the TPS correctly. There's a good how-to on this site:
(http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/howto.html).

I don't know for sure, but Idoubt it. Check the vacuum hoses and electrical connections to those 2 solenoids. Use the FSM to identify which is which.

 

Instead of buying a new TPS, first adjust the old one. Also make sure to test the TPS with the engine FULLY warmed up to avoid false readings from the cold start cam. In addition, a suck cold start cam will give you bad TPS readings even if the car is warm.

 

I've read a few articles on how to adjust the TPS
half of them say the Voltmeter is the best way to go, and to never do the test lamp because it will fry my Computer

the other half say the test lamps are the best..


any experience with either way?

I have both readily available...


I've searched for a picture of the cold start cam or at least a decent description of where it's at. It is the cam on the intake manifold that is above the tps and has a coolant line that attaches to a plunger type control that pushes the cam open/closed correct? and what are the indications that it is stuck? it moves freely by the way, so I don't believe it's stuck

 

The best way, in my opinion, is to use an ohmmeter.

The cold start cam should not move freely when the engine is cold. It's on the back of the throttle body.

 

alright, I think I've found it, small little cam that is controlled by a plunger that prevents whole throttle body assembly from returning fully? I will check that when I get to work today or home after she's warmed up.

Last night while driving I noticed that the check engine light turns off when the throttle is depressed about 15-20% of travel..

 

much helpful

 

adjusted the TPS so it's in factory specs at idle and it flows evenly up to the Wide open, which is also in the factory range. Hell, even the engine check light turned off.

but!

now she bucks and raises hell when you're around 3500-4000 rpm
haven't tried to venture over that, but I don't believe it will let me.

and the idle creeps slowly back up to around 2000.....

help?

 

If the engine has sat for long periods, or you have a bunch of crap in the cooling system the thermo-wax (Cold cam) may get plugged (no coolant flow) and will not heat up when the engine is warmed up, which allows the engine the idle lower.

When the engine is hot, make sure the thermo wax valve is hot. If it is not hot, remove it and try to clean out the coolant passages.

 

she has sat for a while, the prior owner had put on 1000 miles over the course of two years, and traveled alot so she sat.

I guess with the cold idle cam stuck, the tps adjustment would be moot

but would it still make me buck and kick at that mid range rpm?

 

update,

pulled off the throttle body, spilled a little of the coolant from the lower line that was on the thermoid valve and it was quite a disgusting color. I plan on replacing all the vacuum lines and fluids over the weekend.

Still unsure of why she kicks and bucks, but maybe after my next TPS adjustment and all it will be better.

 

Replacing the vacuum lines will generally clear the problem. Sounds like you have multiple vacuum leaks, which throws the idle control for a loop. The reason things are funny after the TPS adjustment is that the ECU now knows where zero throttle is and has been trying to regulate the idle with the BAC.

 

Seems so,

I found a write up a bit ago dealing with Emissions removal.
cleaning up my engine bay and simplification would be my preferred course of action. Nice thing about living in Florida...

what can I use to open the ports of my N/A instead of the air pump?

 

Just use the airpump. It's the easiest and most reliable.

 

Upon closer inspection, the Cold start is broken, there is a small hump of wax pushing through the plastic bottom. And if the thermoid system even worked, the vacuum controlled arm that opens and closes the first set of throttle bodies is leaking air, so it's stuck open.

And after going over all my vacuum lines, it ends up that if I just unplug my TPS, she runs, starts, and idles fine. So I'll pick one up here shortly.