iwantarx7!

Either I need a new N/a or I need to replace EVERYTHING since everything is so old.
The main two problems I knew of; was an exhaust leak, and something with the Throttle Body. When I start the car it revvs to 3k then stays around 1.5k-2.5k, the throttle body opens up but stays in the same position. I need a DIY with Pics to adjusting it to revv at 900rpms..
Furthermore,
while working under the car the past two days I realized how bad I'm leaking Coolant AND Oil.. figuring out where to find the leak is going to kill me. Since I lost my job, I minds-well take the motor apart.
Where are the most common Coolant&Oil leaks with these motors? if it's a Coolant seal, how hard is it to change it out? I got my 7 for $1000 with nothing done to the motor at all. I think nothing had ever been touched, seriously.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

For the leaks, it is best to see what area the drips are coming from and then check more closely in that area. Could be a heater hose, rad hose, thermowax hose, etc. for coolant. For oil, it would most likely be the hose/connections between the engine and the oil cooler, but there are a few other places as well (dowel pin leak, OMP/OMP lines, etc.).

Einheri

Spiking to 3k RPMs on start up is normal. I'm pretty sure it's part of the accelerated warm up system. When the car is completely warmed up your idle should drop to about 900 RPMs. A way I get around this in my FD- I start the car in 1st gear and keep my foot on the clutch for about 8 seconds, then take the car out of gear and release the clutch, works the same for you! If your car doesn't settle to about 1.1k RPMs after this, then you might need to adjust your TPS (throttle position sensor). The easiest way imo, to find an exhaust leak is to get a "smoker" and literally blow smoke up your cars *** and look for the little puffs of smoke. Coolant seals are in between the plates, meaning if you have a bad seal, it's time to pull the block apart and replace all of the seals...while you're at it you might as well check the apex seals, and check the rotor housings for scratches etc. But I'm still a noob, this is just my $0.02

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVmuc...eature=related

Unless your car looks like this when you start it up, I'm pretty sure your block coolant seals are fine.

funkjaw

iTrader: (3)

Almost all of the external coolant leak placed on an FC are easy to fix. The hardest is the one that runs behind the throttle body. Just start the car up and wait for the leak to happen and track it down that way.

For $1000 I highly doubt you will find another Rx7 that will have less problems than what you are describing lol.

iwantarx7!

I checked the where the Coolant is leaking after a good drive, and it's somewhere right under the Altenator. From there, it leaks down onto the face of the Oilpan and drips from there. I'm not worried about the Oil leak too much because I only have to put about a quart in Once a month.

iwantarx7!

Thanks for the Video. And yea that's what I was talking about finding a DIY on adjusting the Throttle body/TPS because I've tried that whole clutch/in gear start already..

iwantarx7!

I fixed my Exhaust leak btw....
there was a crappy weld and bad gasket where the downpipe meets the catalytic converter.

and it's not too bad of a car it had 120k miles when I got it.