how to shift at redline without looking at cluster?
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how to shift at redline without looking at cluster?
One of my friend told me to look at dyno sheet torque curve. I'm still confuse because I've ask some racer and they say the motor makes a dinstinct sound when redline. I have problem with my ears where background noise will distort what I want to listen to. Am I out of luck? Please share tips and tricks to mastering this. Because failure of trial error will cost a motor
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There is a redline buzzer on the FC.
Good to hear that at 1-2,2-3.
Now if you can hit that in 4th gear-5th gear,you can solve the hunger problem in the world too!
Good to hear that at 1-2,2-3.
Now if you can hit that in 4th gear-5th gear,you can solve the hunger problem in the world too!
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By the time the buzzer goes and the driver reacts it is probably over so called red line anyway . You need to develop a feel for the car and know when to shift from the feel .
You could always hook up a red light to the buzzer and mount on the dash in front of steering wheel or to the top of the windshield , then you will visually see the light without focusing on anything but the pavement in front of you . That is what I use to do with the big block Mopar stuff and it worked great. Gerald m.
buy the time you think you hear the buzzer and verify buy hearing it for a bit it is to late .. with a light you can be ready and it will cut your shift time down big time .
You could always hook up a red light to the buzzer and mount on the dash in front of steering wheel or to the top of the windshield , then you will visually see the light without focusing on anything but the pavement in front of you . That is what I use to do with the big block Mopar stuff and it worked great. Gerald m.
buy the time you think you hear the buzzer and verify buy hearing it for a bit it is to late .. with a light you can be ready and it will cut your shift time down big time .
Last edited by gerald m; 12-20-12 at 09:45 AM.
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There is an adjustment that you can do.Just not sure about the whole procedure.It has to do with taking the cluster out.
But My thinking is that if you make the buzzer go off early,it would give you ample time.You would still be revving higher when shifting through your own reaction time to the buzzer.
But then again it could be annoying if you want to rev higher and not hear that damn buzzer!
A Lot of guys will take that buzzer out because it is annoying.
Personally I do the Shift by feel,but I don't race...yet..
But My thinking is that if you make the buzzer go off early,it would give you ample time.You would still be revving higher when shifting through your own reaction time to the buzzer.
But then again it could be annoying if you want to rev higher and not hear that damn buzzer!
A Lot of guys will take that buzzer out because it is annoying.
Personally I do the Shift by feel,but I don't race...yet..
#5
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I'm surprised no one mentioned install a shift light!
And I'm not suggesting for a streetc ar one of those big retarded tachometers with a light that could illuminate half of Manhatten. In some cars even with a buzzer, near redline you can't hear the damn thing anyway.
I installed a *small* mini-shift light. It's perfect. Unobtrusive (just a little bigger than a Chapstick tube), easy to install, relatively affordable, tunable to where you want that prompt "hey idiot...time to shift!"and just noticable enough such you don't see spots for the next 5 days.
Auto Meter
And my install in a 3rd Gen.: Triple-R: Autometer "Quick-Lite" Shift Light Install
HTH,
Crispy
And I'm not suggesting for a streetc ar one of those big retarded tachometers with a light that could illuminate half of Manhatten. In some cars even with a buzzer, near redline you can't hear the damn thing anyway.
I installed a *small* mini-shift light. It's perfect. Unobtrusive (just a little bigger than a Chapstick tube), easy to install, relatively affordable, tunable to where you want that prompt "hey idiot...time to shift!"and just noticable enough such you don't see spots for the next 5 days.
Auto Meter
And my install in a 3rd Gen.: Triple-R: Autometer "Quick-Lite" Shift Light Install
HTH,
Crispy
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The torque curve shift point calculations are explained in the Auto Math Handbook.
Amazon.com: Auto Math Handbook HP (0075478010202): John Lawlor: Books
It will take a very long time to relate the sound to rpm, and in your case maybe never. Therefore, you would need to install an aftermarket shift light, which is usually attached to or part of an aftermarket pedestal-mounted tachometer or standalone engine management system. If you want to be accurate about your calculated shift points, then you will need a high-end shift light that is driven by both the tach and the speedometer or transmission gear sensor. Otherwise, you will only be able to set the shift point at a single rpm, and if you wanted multiple shift points then you would need multiple lights that you identify by color or by positioning them on a tree.
Amazon.com: Auto Math Handbook HP (0075478010202): John Lawlor: Books
It will take a very long time to relate the sound to rpm, and in your case maybe never. Therefore, you would need to install an aftermarket shift light, which is usually attached to or part of an aftermarket pedestal-mounted tachometer or standalone engine management system. If you want to be accurate about your calculated shift points, then you will need a high-end shift light that is driven by both the tach and the speedometer or transmission gear sensor. Otherwise, you will only be able to set the shift point at a single rpm, and if you wanted multiple shift points then you would need multiple lights that you identify by color or by positioning them on a tree.
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The torque curve shift point calculations are explained in the Auto Math Handbook.
Amazon.com: Auto Math Handbook HP (0075478010202): John Lawlor: Books
It will take a very long time to relate the sound to rpm, and in your case maybe never. Therefore, you would need to install an aftermarket shift light, which is usually attached to or part of an aftermarket pedestal-mounted tachometer or standalone engine management system. If you want to be accurate about your calculated shift points, then you will need a high-end shift light that is driven by both the tach and the speedometer or transmission gear sensor. Otherwise, you will only be able to set the shift point at a single rpm, and if you wanted multiple shift points then you would need multiple lights that you identify by color or by positioning them on a tree.
Amazon.com: Auto Math Handbook HP (0075478010202): John Lawlor: Books
It will take a very long time to relate the sound to rpm, and in your case maybe never. Therefore, you would need to install an aftermarket shift light, which is usually attached to or part of an aftermarket pedestal-mounted tachometer or standalone engine management system. If you want to be accurate about your calculated shift points, then you will need a high-end shift light that is driven by both the tach and the speedometer or transmission gear sensor. Otherwise, you will only be able to set the shift point at a single rpm, and if you wanted multiple shift points then you would need multiple lights that you identify by color or by positioning them on a tree.
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Yes, a rev limiter would be the best way to keep from over-revving the engine, and a fixed-rpm shift light would be the next best solution. However, I wanted to address the OP's question about choosing optimal shift points based on the engine's torque curve and the driveline gear ratios.
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Thank you for the link evil aviator. I'm not a fan of shift light base on my experience with the annoying buzzer from an 05 Wrx sti. I posted the question because in my lifetime, i was Lucky enough to be in the passenger seat of yamano tetsuya. Tetsuya is one of the driver who won the 2006 super gt with the re amemiya car. I sat in 5 different car with him, and all I could ever dream of was shifting perfectly like he did. Anyhow, thanks everyone for their advice. Shift light it is to be safe, but I won't give up on feeling the torque base on rpm.
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