high mileage tune up
03-14-13, 12:36 AM
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high mileage tune up
just bought a 90 n/a with 88k miles on original engine. car is stock, what are some good reliability mods and tune ups for a high mileage engine.
03-14-13, 10:06 AM
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FLUIDS:
- Fuel
- Oil (Don't use any high mileage oils)
- Water/coolant
- Differential oil
- Transmission oil
- Power steering fluid
- Brake fluid
- Clutch fluid
IGNITION:
- Spark plugs (NGK: 2x BUR7EQP and 2x BUR9EQP)
- Spark plug wires
- Be sure the leading coil is grounded well.
FILTERS:
- Fuel filter
- In tank fuel sock (On fuel pump)
- Air filter
- Oil filter
HOSES:
- Radiator and all water/coolant associated hoses
- Check vacuum lines for cracks/breakage (Replace accordingly)
- Fuel hoses (If need be replaced, be sure to get fuel injection rated hose. Also, use proper fuel hose clamps.)
- Brake lines
- Clutch line
- Thoroughly inspect the intake ducting
- Thoroughly inspect the oil cooler hoses
BELTS:
- Air pump belt
- Alternator/water pump belt
- Power steering belt
- Air conditioning belt
(Properly tension all of the above.)
OTHER:
- Master and slave clutch cylinders
- Brake master cylinder
- Brake pads and brake rotors
- Any and all worn suspension bushings
- Test and properly set the Throttle Positioning Sensor(s)
- Have the primary and secondary fuel injectors professionally flow tested and cleaned
- Clean ALL grounds thoroughly (Add extra ground wires if you'd like. Doesn't hurt.)
- Clean battery posts and terminals
- Battery (If needed.)
- Inspect as much of the wiring harness as possible. (Particularly the fuel injector clip wires.)
- Wheel bearings
- Tires
- Struts/springs
- INSPECT and/or REPLACE THE Fuel Pulsation Dampener (A leading cause of engine fires.)
- Inspect the old Metering Oil Pump lines (Tend to crack and break when mishandling... Or touching them in general.)
- Thermostat (Replace with OEM Mazda thermostat.)
- Radiator and water/coolant filler caps
- ANY leaky gaskets and seals (HINT: Water pump housing gasket, moon roof seal, etc...)
- Exhaust donuts
- Exhaust gaskets
- Check all fuses (Driver side kick panel fuses and engine bay fuses.)
- Replace any bad light bulbs
- Replace any bad sensors (Go ahead and get a new O2 sensor.)
There's probably plenty more... But that should be a pretty good start. Pull out your wallet and get to work!
- Fuel
- Oil (Don't use any high mileage oils)
- Water/coolant
- Differential oil
- Transmission oil
- Power steering fluid
- Brake fluid
- Clutch fluid
IGNITION:
- Spark plugs (NGK: 2x BUR7EQP and 2x BUR9EQP)
- Spark plug wires
- Be sure the leading coil is grounded well.
FILTERS:
- Fuel filter
- In tank fuel sock (On fuel pump)
- Air filter
- Oil filter
HOSES:
- Radiator and all water/coolant associated hoses
- Check vacuum lines for cracks/breakage (Replace accordingly)
- Fuel hoses (If need be replaced, be sure to get fuel injection rated hose. Also, use proper fuel hose clamps.)
- Brake lines
- Clutch line
- Thoroughly inspect the intake ducting
- Thoroughly inspect the oil cooler hoses
BELTS:
- Air pump belt
- Alternator/water pump belt
- Power steering belt
- Air conditioning belt
(Properly tension all of the above.)
OTHER:
- Master and slave clutch cylinders
- Brake master cylinder
- Brake pads and brake rotors
- Any and all worn suspension bushings
- Test and properly set the Throttle Positioning Sensor(s)
- Have the primary and secondary fuel injectors professionally flow tested and cleaned
- Clean ALL grounds thoroughly (Add extra ground wires if you'd like. Doesn't hurt.)
- Clean battery posts and terminals
- Battery (If needed.)
- Inspect as much of the wiring harness as possible. (Particularly the fuel injector clip wires.)
- Wheel bearings
- Tires
- Struts/springs
- INSPECT and/or REPLACE THE Fuel Pulsation Dampener (A leading cause of engine fires.)
- Inspect the old Metering Oil Pump lines (Tend to crack and break when mishandling... Or touching them in general.)
- Thermostat (Replace with OEM Mazda thermostat.)
- Radiator and water/coolant filler caps
- ANY leaky gaskets and seals (HINT: Water pump housing gasket, moon roof seal, etc...)
- Exhaust donuts
- Exhaust gaskets
- Check all fuses (Driver side kick panel fuses and engine bay fuses.)
- Replace any bad light bulbs
- Replace any bad sensors (Go ahead and get a new O2 sensor.)
There's probably plenty more... But that should be a pretty good start. Pull out your wallet and get to work!
03-15-13, 04:08 PM
#5
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FLUIDS:
- Fuel
- Oil (Don't use any high mileage oils)
- Water/coolant
- Differential oil
- Transmission oil
- Power steering fluid
- Brake fluid
- Clutch fluid
IGNITION:
- Spark plugs (NGK: 2x BUR7EQP and 2x BUR9EQP)
- Spark plug wires
- Be sure the leading coil is grounded well.
FILTERS:
- Fuel filter
- In tank fuel sock (On fuel pump)
- Air filter
- Oil filter
HOSES:
- Radiator and all water/coolant associated hoses
- Check vacuum lines for cracks/breakage (Replace accordingly)
- Fuel hoses (If need be replaced, be sure to get fuel injection rated hose. Also, use proper fuel hose clamps.)
- Brake lines
- Clutch line
- Thoroughly inspect the intake ducting
- Thoroughly inspect the oil cooler hoses
BELTS:
- Air pump belt
- Alternator/water pump belt
- Power steering belt
- Air conditioning belt
(Properly tension all of the above.)
OTHER:
- Master and slave clutch cylinders
- Brake master cylinder
- Brake pads and brake rotors
- Any and all worn suspension bushings
- Test and properly set the Throttle Positioning Sensor(s)
- Have the primary and secondary fuel injectors professionally flow tested and cleaned
- Clean ALL grounds thoroughly (Add extra ground wires if you'd like. Doesn't hurt.)
- Clean battery posts and terminals
- Battery (If needed.)
- Inspect as much of the wiring harness as possible. (Particularly the fuel injector clip wires.)
- Wheel bearings
- Tires
- Struts/springs
- INSPECT and/or REPLACE THE Fuel Pulsation Dampener (A leading cause of engine fires.)
- Inspect the old Metering Oil Pump lines (Tend to crack and break when mishandling... Or touching them in general.)
- Thermostat (Replace with OEM Mazda thermostat.)
- Radiator and water/coolant filler caps
- ANY leaky gaskets and seals (HINT: Water pump housing gasket, moon roof seal, etc...)
- Exhaust donuts
- Exhaust gaskets
- Check all fuses (Driver side kick panel fuses and engine bay fuses.)
- Replace any bad light bulbs
- Replace any bad sensors (Go ahead and get a new O2 sensor.)
There's probably plenty more... But that should be a pretty good start. Pull out your wallet and get to work!
- Fuel
- Oil (Don't use any high mileage oils)
- Water/coolant
- Differential oil
- Transmission oil
- Power steering fluid
- Brake fluid
- Clutch fluid
IGNITION:
- Spark plugs (NGK: 2x BUR7EQP and 2x BUR9EQP)
- Spark plug wires
- Be sure the leading coil is grounded well.
FILTERS:
- Fuel filter
- In tank fuel sock (On fuel pump)
- Air filter
- Oil filter
HOSES:
- Radiator and all water/coolant associated hoses
- Check vacuum lines for cracks/breakage (Replace accordingly)
- Fuel hoses (If need be replaced, be sure to get fuel injection rated hose. Also, use proper fuel hose clamps.)
- Brake lines
- Clutch line
- Thoroughly inspect the intake ducting
- Thoroughly inspect the oil cooler hoses
BELTS:
- Air pump belt
- Alternator/water pump belt
- Power steering belt
- Air conditioning belt
(Properly tension all of the above.)
OTHER:
- Master and slave clutch cylinders
- Brake master cylinder
- Brake pads and brake rotors
- Any and all worn suspension bushings
- Test and properly set the Throttle Positioning Sensor(s)
- Have the primary and secondary fuel injectors professionally flow tested and cleaned
- Clean ALL grounds thoroughly (Add extra ground wires if you'd like. Doesn't hurt.)
- Clean battery posts and terminals
- Battery (If needed.)
- Inspect as much of the wiring harness as possible. (Particularly the fuel injector clip wires.)
- Wheel bearings
- Tires
- Struts/springs
- INSPECT and/or REPLACE THE Fuel Pulsation Dampener (A leading cause of engine fires.)
- Inspect the old Metering Oil Pump lines (Tend to crack and break when mishandling... Or touching them in general.)
- Thermostat (Replace with OEM Mazda thermostat.)
- Radiator and water/coolant filler caps
- ANY leaky gaskets and seals (HINT: Water pump housing gasket, moon roof seal, etc...)
- Exhaust donuts
- Exhaust gaskets
- Check all fuses (Driver side kick panel fuses and engine bay fuses.)
- Replace any bad light bulbs
- Replace any bad sensors (Go ahead and get a new O2 sensor.)
There's probably plenty more... But that should be a pretty good start. Pull out your wallet and get to work!
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03-15-13, 11:10 PM
#8
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^ +1 Good ol' conventional oil always does the trick.
Personally, I have always used Castrol GTX 20W-50. Over the winter I used 10W-40... Didn't care much for it. The oil burnt up so quickly.
Personally, I have always used Castrol GTX 20W-50. Over the winter I used 10W-40... Didn't care much for it. The oil burnt up so quickly.
03-15-13, 11:23 PM
#9
mmmmm 777777777777777777
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changed the oil yersterday. was happy to see alot of oil coming out of it. had a small leak in the pan gotta check on that tomorrow. picked up my sparkies and fuel filter today got to get that done tomorrow as well. if i have time i would like to attempt the lazy look. wish me luck.
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