BigMikeATL

I had my first drive in an FD this past weekend and am thinking about buying it. I drive an 8 but am a total n00b when it comes to FD's and the complexities of turbo setups.

Supposedly the sequential twin turbo has been replaced with two standard turbos. There seems to be plenty of power throughout the rev band, but I've never driven a stock FD, so I don't know how this compares.

Any thoughts based on the attached pic of the engine bay?

The only thing I do know for sure is that the A/C is disconnected. Based on the layout, any idea how difficult it would be to re-attach the A/C?

tinytyrant

iTrader: (3)

what do you mean by standard? they replaced like for like and it's still factory original spec?

also, question to ask on the a/c is why has it been disconnected?

if it's just about putting the belt pulley back on, then, no probs.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

The previous owner has removed the sequential system and both stock turbos are now both running parallel. Not sure how I'd like it, but it's certainly simpler. Looks like emissions have been removed as well, so if you live in a state that tests, you won't pass. I'm NOT a fan of open intakes like that. Especially in the summer when they just suck hot air from the engine bay.
From appearances, it's almost certain that this car had alot more aftermarket parts on it at one time...i. e. bigger intercooler, intake etc. But the P O removed them to sell separately. It's hard to predict how much it will take to get the A/C going. You'll need to have it tested for leaks, taken to vacuum and recharged IF the compessor is still any good. Remember that it's a R12 system.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

It also looks like when the P O removed the airpump he installed under-driven (larger) pulleys. That was done in an effort to keep some belt contact on the water-pump pulley. Know that it's not a stock size belt anymore. And with that set-up it's not uncommon to over-tighten to avoid slippage. And that can be hard on bearings, including the front main. If you have plans for a big stereo/amplifier or anything that might draw alot of power, you might notice the under-driven alternator having trouble keeping up at low rpm.

What does the seller say about the engine? Is it stock ports, stock injectors and fuel etc? If not...and these were also modified, he almost certainly was running those turbos above stock boost levels and with an after-market ECU.

BigMikeATL

Thanks Sarge! The owner said it has a high flow cat on it, but does not pass emissions, so I'm guessing it's just missing the pre-cat?

I had the same concern with the intakes sucking in heat from the engine. Personally, I'd want to rework the intakes so they're sucking in as much cool air as possible by situating them right behind the intercooler next to the main airbox.

Since I'm new to FD's and understand that maintenance is costly due to the twin turbo setup, I want to make sure I know what I'm getting into before plunking down my hard-earned cash.

Any idea what the pros/cons are of the sequential vs non-sequential turbo setup is?

Oh... on the plus side, the car does have a water/meth kit installed!

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

All but the most low-mileage FD's have the pre-cats removed because they tended to collapse, plug the main cat and damage the engine. They only improved emissions on cold start because they warmed up quick. If it won't pass emissions now, I doubt it will with a pre-cat either.

Search in the 3rd Gen. Section with terms like 'Sequential' and 'non-sequential' in title only and read others opinions.

BigMikeATL

That could explain why it was never connected!

In any case, if I decide to buy it, I'm going to have it inspected by a trustworthy specialty shop that I have been doing business with for years. They'll let me know what it'll cost.

On the flip side, the price is pretty fair and the car has a relatively new engine, water/meth injection, and an upgraded intercooler, so it isn't all bad.

BigMikeATL

Yeah, I read one of the n00b threads and the consensus was that removing the pre-cat is good, though it will just wear out the cat faster. Now I understand why so many people run catless and just bolt it back on so they can pass emissions.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

^Either you misunderstood or what you read was wrong. The pre-cat was stuck on there by MAZDA only for cold start emissiings. It has nothing to do with the life of the main cat...in fact as I mentioned already, the pre-cat has been known to collapse and plug up the main cat. It was also a huge radiant heater under the hood, shortening the life of hoses, solenoids, wire connectors and insulation. Replacing it with a decent downpipe is both a performance and reliability mod.

As for running totally catless with a mid-pipe, that too can be dangerous. Many owners did it, only because ebay was selling cheap chinese downpipe/midpipe 'sets'. And many regretted it. Go to the FAQ stickys in the 3rd Gen. Section and read through everything, including boost CREEP and it's causes.

Nothing that I've pointed out necessarily makes it a bad car. If it's priced right...great. But you asked for thoughts and figured you'd want to know.
BTW....what "upgraded intercooler" is coming with the car? The one in the picture is stock.

BigMikeATL

Thanks for the replies so far. I got some more detail on the engine and exhaust.

What are the pros/cons of the stock turbos running in parallel as far as performance and emissions is concerned?

It has a Bonez hi-flow cat but doesn't pass emissions. From your experience, why does it fail emissions and what can be done to get it to pass?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I've never had to deal with emissions. But guessing that you no longer have an airpump and probably the other emissions related parts. Not realistic to re-install at this point. You may want to network with some other rotary owners in your state and ask for tips. But I suspect tunning is a big part too. Did you buy the car? If not, have the owner get it done.
As for sequential vs. parallel/non-sequential.....obviously non-sequential is much simpler allowing you to delete all of the solenoids, tanks and vacuum lines associated with it. As for performance I suspect some lag at low rpm, but no first-hand experience. I recommend a search in the 3rd Generation section.
Other than that...Bonez hi-flow cat is a quality proven unit on these cars. Have one on my car that's been doing it's job for well over 10 years.

BigMikeATL

Apparently the car is missing the air pump. What is the likelihood that re-adding this component will get the car to pass emissions?

I read threads about people tuning and using alcohol to get past emissions, though I don't know how much of a hassle this is.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

It's more than apparent to me....the AP isn't in that picture.
AFAIK, you can't add JUST the AP. You're also missing the split-air bypass components, egr and likely some other things.
You asked for "thoughts". Mine is this...if it's not too late, pass on the car if it MUST clear emissions. Not only will it not pass, but you live in Georgia and it soesn't have A/C. There's a differnce between low price and value. This car might otherwise be sound mechanically, but more of a headache than fun for you.

BigMikeATL

I haven't committed to buying it. That's why I'm trolling here on the boards and asking for input before pulling the trigger.

Sounds like I could easily be talking about $1000 parts and labor just to get it where it needs to be. For the price ($15k), I could almost certainly find a comparable vehicle in proper working order.

ItzGoatee

wow thats super clean

ItzGoatee

is that 15k a set price?