Bjm.Rx7

i've already cleaned my ground, even the main car one and the motor one

satch

iTrader: (1)

When did you clean the grounds. Was it just recently. What else have you done to fix your problem? Seems like you still need to address the high voltage readings you were getting when testing certain wires. And when you tested for spark at the lead coil did you do it exactly as suggested or did you use some other method. I believe you can take the trailing coil and remove the top portion and place the top portion from the lead coil on it and use it as the lead coil.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Proper RX-7 Grounding Procedures

Follow this procedure to the letter with every ground and your issues should clear themselves up. Two things I'd like to add to it though:

1. The Main Ground bolt can be threaded in from the wheelwell side. Doing this makes it easier to reinstall the negative battery cable(s). All it takes is another M6x1.0 nut to secure everything.
2. If your coils' ground connection to the body is sketchy, it might pay off to run another ground wire to the Main Ground point in addition to cleaning where they bolt on.

My car has the battery relocated to one of the bins, but I still have a stock-ish setup for the Negative Battery cable under the hood. The section that runs from the Main Ground point to the battery is rerouted to a bus bar for anything under the hood. All of the engine related items that need a ground get it here. Same principle applies on the 12v+ side of things too. Plus, the bus bars double as handy jumpstart points.

Bjm.Rx7

i cleaned my ground 2 days ago. i'll try to run a ground from my battery to my coil with a big wire or something. and yes i did all my test like told too.

Bjm.Rx7

well even with coil grounded to the batterie my coils doesn't fire up, have no power in any. 4 of theme are dead

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

have you checked the EGI and EGI Comp fuses on the fuse block(engine bay).

Bjm.Rx7

I removed the coils from the metal brace and clean ttose ground. I plugged them back but only 3 wires have sparks! Theres is 2 coils near my windshield. The left one pluged on the upper left spark plug doesn't work at all. 3 others works good. Any idea?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Could be a bad wire and or plug among other things.

satch

iTrader: (1)

At the ECU there are three wires related to the trailing coil. W/key to on 1M (Blue/Red) would read below 2 volts (, 1X (Blue/Yellow) would read 0 volts (close to .8 volts engine running) and 1U (Brown/Yellow) would read close to 4.3 volts w/key to on (and 2.2 volts w/engine running).

Pin 1U is the select signal and it tells the coil which plug to fire. As the voltage changes from 0 volts to 5 volts the T1 plug is fired. When the voltage reverts from 5 volts to 0 volts the T2 plug fires. You could rotate the alternator pulley like done when checking the lead coil's G/Y wire.

Bjm.Rx7

thx to all of you guys! my coil problem si solved but i do have another problem! my motor starts but i have to give gas, if not, it shut down right away! if i let the rpm go at 3 or 4 omg it runs so bad sounds like theres too much air going in and as soon as i let the gas go, shut off. can somebody help me on that? i cant see any vaccum line unplug and my air filter is brand new

Bjm.Rx7

Ok nice i had an air ose unolug. I fix it and the start and keep idle but seems that the idle is a bit high. My rpm doesn't work if i dont floor the car and when i do floor it it looks like it doesnt have any power! When idling idle change and come back to original point all the time. Can somebody help me on that?

Bjm.Rx7

ok nice i had an air HOSE UNPLUG. i fixed it and IT starts and keep idle but seems that the idle is a bit high. My rpm doesn't work if i don't floor the car (at 4 its start running) and when i do floor it , don't have any power! when idling, idle change and come back to original point all the time. Can somebody help me on that? sorry about that, the first message was wrote from my cellphone and had a lot of mistakes that i had, for my own satisfaction, to correct them. thx

satch

iTrader: (1)

Could be clogged primary injectors, bad TPS, poor timing, clogged fuel filter (including the one in the fuel tank), vacuum leak, AFM, ineffective ignition (coils,plugs, plug wires and the tach works off of the trailing coil) damaged wiring etc. For starters try pulling error codes.

Bjm.Rx7

ok! everytime i start my motor, everything works fine! rpm working. oil pressure gage is at 0, as soon as i reve it to 4 rpm, motor stop reving and missing, rpm go at 0 and wont work again but oil pressure is going up. don't know what to do

satch

iTrader: (1)

While you're in the process of not knowing what to do, pull error codes in the meantime (you might be in limp mode).

Bjm.Rx7

Thx i'll get the error code on monday since my friend is off this weekend and dont have acces to the machine

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

you don't need a "machine" for codes.
LINK:RX7 FD and Series 5 Error Codes

Bjm.Rx7

well that thing doesn't work! my check engine never flashed with my key on, all my lights stays on in the dash, as i said earlier, my check engine comes on only if i rev my motor, something i did too is that i jacked the rear part so i could put it in drive, i can go up to 100 mph before it starts shaking put rpm stop working, but if i just floor it, i doesn't go up 40 mph and start shaking.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You can use the S4 method for checking error codes on your S5.

Bjm.Rx7

ok but why on the diagram to diagnose my error code, the green connector have 4 wires on it but my rx7 only have 3 of theme, yellow, yellow and black, black and white. But now i have another probleme that is pissing me off! i jack my rear car, put it in drive, adjust my throtle and been able to open it at 120m/h. i stoped everything and decided to change my oil and oil filter. as soon as i did that... nothing is working now, my car do starts but idle at 2 rpm and as soon as i give gas, it stop.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You only need two of the three diagnostic wires for the test w/the B/W wire and one of the two Yellow wires being selected. (S4 having 4 is irrelevant).


Perhaps you accidentally unplugged something in the oil change.

Bjm.Rx7

yeah i unpluged a hose! starts now but cant go higher that 3 rpm and my check engine lights is always open now

satch

iTrader: (1)

When you check your error codes then you'll have something to work off. Until then you don't.

Bjm.Rx7

ok i'll get it check today! can somebody tell me if my firing order is ok? i can't find my firing order on the internet! i'll put a very good draw of my Paint talent of how my coils are set right now (they were like that when i bought the car)

Bjm.Rx7

ok! i just did my check engine test! i have on ly 1 engine flash, 3-4 sec break, another flash, 3-4 sec break, all the same thing for over 1 min! so if its a code 1, its an ignition coil problem (trailing side), could be

.Ignition Coil Connection
.B/W Terminal Voltage of Coil
.Wiring from Coil to ECU
.Coil

if its a code 10, since normally you one blink for a ten and faster blink as a 1,

Intake Air Thermosensor (AFM)
Open or Short Circuit .


Intake Air Thermosensor Connector
.Wiring from Intake Air Thermosensor to ECU
.Intake Air Thermosensor Resistance