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Getting back to it

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Old 01-29-23, 11:08 AM
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Getting back to it

Howdy
I've had my rx7 for close to a decade now, bought it at what is now an unheard of price. Drove it for a while, had a clutch failure, then decided to tear it down for a rebuild. Once said engine was torn down, found a broken coolant passage on an iron, and a few other issues. So, with what little funds I had I began to source new parts. 6 years later my 13b is still in pieces and I have made zero headway. I tossed around the idea of swapping in a supercharged Buick V6, but Jay Leno said in one of his videos "It's only original once"... So now, with a much higher paying job, I can finally restore my gxl and get it back on the road and drive its brains out.
One question though :
What, if any, performance amd reliability modifications should I make to the engine and transmission while I have them out? I'm purchasing a used engine that I'm going to rebuild with a kit, but I want to have it run for quite a long time before I pull it out again

Thanks!
Old 01-29-23, 06:56 PM
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Might want to look at a pre-built engine!
Old 01-31-23, 08:05 AM
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You need to define your goals, identifying realistic budgets and drivability as your question is too open to answer.

Want to port it? How crazy of a port job do you want to go?
Willing to suffer drivability?
I’m assuming you mean leaving it N/A.
Simple streetport job with a lightweight flywheel enough, with what ecu? Fuel system? Etc…

I just did a build on my 06 sti, and I had to define my goals, budget and drivability. Went with a prebuilt blueprinted shortblock with forged pistons and forged h-beam rods for reliability and higher hp potential down the road, 500awhp, ACL bearings for reliability, higher flow oil pump to upgrade the oil system, stainless steel intake valves and inconel exhaust valves to take the heat, bronze valve guides to dissipate the valve heat and run tighter tolerances, valve springs with slightly higher seat pressure along with titanium retainers to get another ~1000rpm if I needed it or misshifted, stock cams because California smog sucks, all timing and gaskets oem Subaru for reliability, oem turbo due to cost and smog, now upgrading to a smog legal 20g because I now have the funds, walbro 255 to support the fuel needed by the 20g turbo, act street lite steel lightweight flywheel to reduce inertia but not suffer as much in terms of drivability with an aluminum flywheel, exedy stage 1 clutch since it has good pedal feel and hold the power of the 20g turbo I wanted, slightly stiffer engine mounts to tighten everything up, mishimoto radiator for cooling, air oil separator for reliability and to help the engine breathe.

For my s5 t2 fc, I was out of high school and on a budget but found deals as I spent 2 years accumulating parts used or new. Oil cooler lines for reliability, all new seals and springs, pineapple racing hd water seals so I can open the block in case I did the rebuild incorrectly, hybrid turbo for more power, 750/850cc injectors, walbro 255, power fc, aem uego wideband, datalogit to tune the power fc, os giken twin plate clutch, stock intake ports (hindsight I should’ve ported), ported exhaust ports. Blocked off omp and run premix. Made my own intake piping, 3” intake, ebay fmic, 3” turbo back exhaust. Fluidyne radiator. Electric fan.

You can see I had a goal, had a budget, or adjusted my budget accordingly, and a reason for each mod. Start there.

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Old 01-31-23, 08:07 AM
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You say you’re purchasing a used engine which you’re going to rebuild with a kit, but you need to break it open to see what even is usable first. It took me 3 s5 t2 engines to build 1.
Old 01-31-23, 11:14 AM
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A pre-built engine isn't out of the question. Pineapple Racing is practically in my backyard, so I have resources nearby, although I don't know how much Rob does nowadays, his website doesn't give much info now. It's just a matter of cost, but I would get what I paid for with him. When I pick up this used engine, I "should" have enough usable parts to make one complete engine as this would also be the 3rd engine I've picked up. As for drivability, I want to be able to be in stop and go traffic when I occasionally take it to work. I'm not opposed to porting, but I'd have to do some more research. Basically just want to get it back to where I can drive it every once in a while and have some fun
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Old 01-31-23, 01:13 PM
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Mazdatrix.com has some engine choices. I look at it from that view as I'm not well versed on the insides of a wankel engine.
Old 01-31-23, 01:43 PM
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I'll keep mazdatrix in mind if this 3rd engine I buy is crap, but I'm confident in my mechanical abilities that I could do a successful rebuild. I just wanna drive this thing again
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Old 01-31-23, 02:54 PM
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Call pineapple racing, or go over there. They are super helpful and will talk you out of stuff you won’t need.

I did when I did my t2 engine build. Most useful conversation I had during my build. We made a parts list right there on the phone and I paid him right away. I don’t regret it, and still recommend them to friends.
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Old 01-31-23, 03:54 PM
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100% Agree. Rob at Pineapple knows way more about rotary than I know about anything else. Ive been in his shop before and the dude can talk. If you've got an extra half or to an hour, you can sit there and pick his brain about anything rotary.
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Old 02-01-23, 07:19 AM
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Thinking about it again, I’d recommend at least installing an oil baffle plate, running stainless oil cooler lines and an aluminum radiator.

I’d recommend installing an aftermarket water temp gauge and tapping the front of the water pump housing to install the sensor.

an aftermarket oil pedestal is a good idea if you want to install an aftermarket electric oil pressure sensor and gauge.

and a lightweight flywheel, probably just a lightweight steel one so you don’t have problems starting from a stop.

Some piece of mind upgrades.

Last edited by DR_Knight; 02-01-23 at 07:22 AM.
Old 02-01-23, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by DR_Knight
Thinking about it again, I’d recommend at least installing an oil baffle plate, running stainless oil cooler lines and an aluminum radiator.

I’d recommend installing an aftermarket water temp gauge and tapping the front of the water pump housing to install the sensor.

an aftermarket oil pedestal is a good idea if you want to install an aftermarket electric oil pressure sensor and gauge.

and a lightweight flywheel, probably just a lightweight steel one so you don’t have problems starting from a stop.

Some piece of mind upgrades.
Thanks for the recommendations! I'll probably do all but the lightweight flywheel, never had a problem before starting from a stop. What experience have you had with oiling mods? Like crushing the rear oil pressure reg, or the atkins thermal pellet for keeping the oil in "warm mode"? I figure these couldn't hurt as well for peace of mind
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