canonize-ryda

so i got this adjustable fuel pressure regulator and it has 2 main fuel lines and what seems to be a vaccuum line. it came with some hoses and a dual male connector for the fuel line and a male outlet i believe goes with a area with a oring of sorts. now can anyone help me hook this up. i have an 86 fc rx7 na and i was told it placed right after the main fuel line before it connects to the engine. i am doing this in hopes of leaning the engine out. it idles rich and more rich when driving. (i dont even no wich one of these is the inlet and outlet on the regulator) so anyhelp would be greatly appreciated. thank you

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Is there a reason you've decided the car is running too rich? Poor idle or maybe hesitation under load? Stock NA ECUs always run the car "rich".

There are 2 ways to install an aftermarket FPR. The right way is to modify or replace the stock fuel rails and use -AN fittings & braided lines. The stock FPR gets removed, and you have a completely custom setup. The hack way to do it is to tee the new FPR into the line after the secondary rail on the return side, then remove the vaccum source from the stock FPR & plug it into the new FPR. The major downside to this second way is that the stock FPR will still be working (partially), and it will fight the new FPR.

Some other things you should probably consider before doing anything to the fuel system are the variable resistor, which can adjust your idle mixture via injector D/C changes, and an SAFC fuel controller. SAFCs and other piggyback computers will let you adjust injector D/C over a range of driving conditions.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

the reg should have indicators cast into it to indicate direction of fuel flow. did it not come with installation instructions?

canonize-ryda

first off i decided it was running rich because my air/fuel ratio guage reads almost all the way rich when driving. it not in the optimal range according to the guage. and my fpr did not come with instructions. and and far as fuel rails im not sure that exactly the way i thought they were. i raced a 2004 dodge neon srt-4 today and at 110 changing into 5th he flew by me. i thought maybe my car is running richly and needs to lean out when at full throttle racing. is there anything stock i can adjust for leanacy?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

What kind of AFR gauge?

What mods are done to your car?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

If you're using a narrowband gauge, it's not accurate enough to tell you much of anything. A single LED on those things can represent more than a full AFR point, and the fact that they're not temperature controlled also changes how the gauge behaves.

If you're using a wideband gauge, what AFR are you seeing at WOT? I think most NAs will end up around 12-13 AFR depending on RPM/load. That's where you want to be for the most part.

And stop trying to race turbo cars with double your horsepower. That's not a good way to gauge if your car is running right. As I said before, the stock setup only lets you adjust idle AFR. There is no way to adjust anything under driving conditions.

canonize-ryda

i have a custom cia, 10.2mm high energy spark plugs, short throw shifter,main cat replaced with race pipe, nks spark plugs, hi flow fuel pump of unknown sorts,(on the car when i bought it), and am doing the rest of my exhuast soon. not very lots of extras and what kind of hp gain will i expect to see from all of this? i no stock is 146 and i had it rebuilt 45k ago and soon to change all fluids. just hoping to race around. what kind of cars can i expect to dominate with this rx7? is it worth putting lots of extras in or should i just turbo II swap it?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

There's a source of a rich mixture problem right there. An NA car does not need an upgraded fuel pump. All that will do is jack up fuel pressure and force the injectors to deliver more fuel. Get a stock fuel pump and you'll gain a little power/mileage back. In current form, you probably have less than stock power. The only thing you listed that would net you more power than stock is the cat replacement pipe, but the oversized fuel pump isn't doing you any favors.

canonize-ryda

lets say the only reason i belive it is any type of differnet fuel pump than stock is simply because it has a switch to turn it on and off. whitch make me belive its not stock but then maybe they put the switch in to keep it from flooding all the time like ive heard many problems with before.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Well, then that doesn't mean the pump is aftermarket. Hopefully it isn't. Fuel cut switches are commonly wired in as a cheap fix for hot-start flood problems.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If you have removed/blocked off your emissions hardware, a narrowband will almost always read rich.

canonize-ryda

okay thank you for all the info. now my question is should i then not install this regulator and just leave it or should i upgrade for 175$ to a wideband guage system? than go from there?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

I wouldn't bother with an adjustable FPR. You shouldn't be playing with the mixture if you don't have a way to monitor the effects (wideband 02 sensor, EGT gauge, logging software...). A good combo for an NA owner looking to get a little extra out of the engine would be a wideband and an SAFC.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You should start by going over the entire car, testing all the sensors, and doing a full tuneup. From your other posts I gather that there are some major problems with your car.

Monitoring AFRs isn't going to help if you dont know what to do with them, and there is no sense trying to tune the car if there is another problem causing the ECU to dump fuel into the engine.

canonize-ryda

today i changed the oil and oil filter. went full synthetic changed fuel filter, changed transmission fluid and orded and aluminum radiator off a turbo. will this radiator work for a na? and since i change my oil and filters the guage reads lean to optimal and only rich when flooring it or using lots of gas. and now my oil pressure stays high at 35-55 lbs most the time. there are no major problems besides my pilot bearing going out and my u-joints in my driveshafts.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

TIIs and NAs use the same radiators, so as long as you bought one for your year, you'll be fine. The oil pressure number is below spec, but old pressure senders will show a lower reading than when they were new.

canonize-ryda

should i replace the sender with a new one. i have a new sender but the oilfilter gets in the way it too short and stubby is there adapter for this type of application. and thanks yea it the same year.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Is the new sender OEM or OEM-style? If it's for some aftermarket gauge, it won't have the right resistance range to give the stock gauge the correct numbers. If you have an aftermarket gauge for it, you'll probably need to drill/tap a new location for this extra sender.