Fuel in my oil URGENT
#1
Fuel in my oil URGENT
Can someone please tell me why my
Oil smells like gas. I flooded it really bad cause I think I have a bad fuel injector or leaky one. Now the oil smells and it won't start. So I changed the oil and cleaned the spark plugs and it started good than I want boosting all night and it
Did it against.
Oil smells like gas. I flooded it really bad cause I think I have a bad fuel injector or leaky one. Now the oil smells and it won't start. So I changed the oil and cleaned the spark plugs and it started good than I want boosting all night and it
Did it against.
#2
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State your CAR Series in any future inquiries please.
If you flooded the car Real bad,as you say,then even IF you drained the oil,there is still Oil LEFT in the cooler(unless you drain the cooler too).
So that will give you the gas odor in the oil.
Also IF the Car is not properly tuned,you can get gas bypassing the oils seals under heavy boost to create a gas in oil situation.
Short story: Thoroughly drain the oil/proper tune will alleviate this.
If you flooded the car Real bad,as you say,then even IF you drained the oil,there is still Oil LEFT in the cooler(unless you drain the cooler too).
So that will give you the gas odor in the oil.
Also IF the Car is not properly tuned,you can get gas bypassing the oils seals under heavy boost to create a gas in oil situation.
Short story: Thoroughly drain the oil/proper tune will alleviate this.
#4
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First 15 psi is alot on the stock twins. They're out their efficiency and making alot of heat. You're also likely shortening their life. Regardless, you should stop "maxing out the injectors" unless you want to buy another engine.
Regarding the fuel in your oil...some fuel dilution over time is pretty typical of a rotary. it's one reason why recommended oil change intervals are shorter. Leaking injectors can make it worse though. So can a bad tune and/or short trips in cold weather. But also bad/worn side seals, worn or out-of-spec side plates, poor corner seal clearancing, and porting... particularly bad porting, will make it worse.
Regarding the fuel in your oil...some fuel dilution over time is pretty typical of a rotary. it's one reason why recommended oil change intervals are shorter. Leaking injectors can make it worse though. So can a bad tune and/or short trips in cold weather. But also bad/worn side seals, worn or out-of-spec side plates, poor corner seal clearancing, and porting... particularly bad porting, will make it worse.
#5
First 15 psi is alot on the stock twins. They're out their efficiency and making alot of heat. You're also likely shortening their life. Regardless, you should stop "maxing out the injectors" unless you want to buy another engine.
Regarding the fuel in your oil...some fuel dilution over time is pretty typical of a rotary. it's one reason why recommended oil change intervals are shorter. Leaking injectors can make it worse though. So can a bad tune and/or short trips in cold weather. But also bad/worn side seals, worn or out-of-spec side plates, poor corner seal clearancing, and porting... particularly bad porting, will make it worse.
Regarding the fuel in your oil...some fuel dilution over time is pretty typical of a rotary. it's one reason why recommended oil change intervals are shorter. Leaking injectors can make it worse though. So can a bad tune and/or short trips in cold weather. But also bad/worn side seals, worn or out-of-spec side plates, poor corner seal clearancing, and porting... particularly bad porting, will make it worse.
Just spiking at 15 psi and I'm
Only doing that because I'm putting a single in right away. My car is parked now. I have a street port with upgraded rotors stud kit high pressure oil mods everything is upgraded except for fuel and turbo. Ill be installing fuel next week I just wanna make sure my engine is still good I had it rebuild 4k ago so it's pretty new. And when the gas goes in the oil it's like I did an oil change it was good for a day than soon as I boosted through all gears it flooded . So I dunno
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