IDwenger

A Denso part number 198700-0040. Some type of switch I'm assuming, is layed over on the pass. side strut tower duct taped keeping the switch made. I have just purchased the vehicle and it will run if roll started (lacking power). I'm trying to start somewhere and this seems like a good spot, What is it? 3 wires blue, black, and yellow.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

got a pic of that part?

IDwenger

Disregard these photos, just getting them online to post elsewhere. Unless you know what this {sensor} is and why it would be duct taped, William David Howell | Facebook
Disregard these photos, just getting them online to post elsewhere. Unless you know what this {sensor} is and why it would be duct taped, William David Howell | Facebook
Disregard these photos, just getting them online to post elsewhere. Unless you know what this {sensor} is and why it would be duct taped, William David Howell | Facebook

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

So this is an S5 NA ('89-'91)? I don't recognize S5 plug shapes, but that switch does not appear to be any factory part I'm familiar with. It's connected by the white plug to the factory harness?

IDwenger

Yeah S5 i believe, it says Mazda Denso on it and I can see the one still on the engine, I need to trace it to see what it bolts too. I'm waiting for it to warm up and for free time. I was hoping someone has messed with it before so i knew what i was getting into.

IDwenger

Should I start a more detailed, new post, on this in my generation specific area?

IDwenger

So I suited up to go out in the snow cause this is driving me crazy, the wire colors on the harness side were: green wire w/ black stripe and red dots, brown wire with white stripe, and brown wire with black stripe. Which to the best of my knowledge is my Metering oil pump position sensor on the botom front of the motor(page z-32 of S5wiring.pdf from FAQ), which is the pictures above, I traced the wires to there, where there has been oil leaking from some of those lines. Why would dude sell me the car saying "it runs good as long as that buttons pushed in"?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

The S5 electric metering oil pump connects to the ECU at pin 2A, as pictured on page Z-32 of the wiring diagrams. There should not any other component in between. What I think is most likely is that the position sensor on the MOP that's bolted to the engine is bad, so the previous owner disconnected it and plugged a position sensor (remove from another MOP) into it. If the ECU does not see a functional sensor and stepper motor, it will put the engine into limp mode (limited timing/power). I would guess that with the position sensor always pressed in, the ECU thinks the throttle is always fully open. The result may be excessive oil consumption, but it could also be NO oil consumption depending on how that signal is interpreted. If the pump is not delivering oil, you will need to pre-mix 2-stroke oil into the gas tank. S5 owners bypass the electric MOP by unbolting it from the engine, blocking off the passageway, and then attaching the pump somewhere out of the way. It must stay plugged in to avoid limp mode. Alternatively, a company called pockerlogger re-chips ECUs and can remove the function: Rtek7 ECU Upgrade Detailed Information

IDwenger

Yeah, that's kinda where I was getting on it. So right now my concern should prolly be on my internals, I guess i could try pulling my plugs and listen for compression pulses and put the other MOPPS on. Then I can buy a battery and see if it'll start! Thanks for the help

IDwenger

I'm sorta thinking I should give the stepping motor controller a test too. If I replace the battery (its been dead since I got the car) the malfunction codes will reset, correct? I've roll started it once, and right before that I had been test driving it (with no acceleration and no power) and it was sitting in the yard idling and just shut off. Where is the metering oil pump control system on the car? The ECU?

IDwenger

Has anyone done buisness with RX7HUT? Seems legit?
Shop Online

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

The ECU controls the metering pump based on throttle sensor input. If the battery is dead/disconnected, trouble codes will reset. To get any idea of internal condition, a full compression test needs to be done. Lack of lubrication will cause gradual wear, which will reduce compression but not necessarily take it down to 0.

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

"No warranty on electrical parts." Everybody has that line. I'd pay the little extra and get the ecu chipped by Digitaltuning. Bad OMP's can damage ecu's, so consider that when you think about plugging in a bad component.

IDwenger

I was hoping to just listen for compression pulses.
I've been trying to understand the mop but most the things I've found in my searches are debates on how it works but I'm narrowing it down.
Worst comes to worst I have the ability to solder in the rtek chip, in the event the mop damaged the ecm, is it common to damage more than that chip?

IDwenger

So I brought my meter home from work and tested my MOPPS'
These are my results from the sensor mounted to the pump currently on the car:
Measure resistance between terminal (Vc) and (E2) 1571 OK
Add the resistance of terminals (Vo-E2) and (Vo-Vc) 916+1913 Is over the 1-2k Ohms
The sensor that was plugged in and duct taped I have taken the tape off and it tests:
Measure resistance between terminal (Vc) and (E2) 1419 OK
Add the resistance of terminals (Vo-E2) and (Vo-Vc) 515+1834 Is also over the 1-2k Ohms limit but closer.
Are these signs of bad position sensors?
Hopefully I can get the rest of the resistance tests and get a battery so I can test the ecm on Saturday. Would the coolant buzzer going off put the ecu into limp mode?
I just want to hear it run right so I can start putting all my time and money into it haha
Thanks for all the help

IDwenger

Any thoughts on my last two posts? This silence is killing me... Weather's looking good for tom. Should have some info. and/or questions throughout the day. Asking again, maybe it will be seen by more people, I'd say a lot of people don't browse the new member section?

IDwenger

So I bought a battery, did a putty patch job on my radiator where it had split right under the filler neck, to remember theres a leak at the water pump gasket; which is supposedly why the coolant buzzer was going off when I test drove it, I'm guessing because it wont hold enough fluid to make the sensor, he said "the leaks won't let the system pressurize is why that's going off." Not a big deal, I can take care of this, so when I tried to start it it sounded like it wanted to start but never would fire over.
Video of me trying to start my car
I can't really check compression I'm gonna need an extra set of hands one day. And the water was "hopping" out the fill spout about 2 inches could my seals be bad? I'm starting to think i should tear this thing down just to know what I've got?

IDwenger

With a lil atf through a vac. line it started today, I'm gonna have to order the water pump as it leaks from the relief hole on the bottom of the shaft still, need to put some gas in next time I start up and I have some MMO to be safe. Hopefully I can get it to hold coolant and get around for a bit so I can get an engine light to come on.
Start up with poor idle