HELLO!
hail all the parts that turn!, boooo for the parts that go UP-DOWN!!!
HAHAHAHA
COULDNT RESIST!!

here is my dilema:
I just bought the "Atkins Designed Six Port Actuator Valve Kit"

My car is a dedicated racecar (spelled backwards is RACECAR!!)
It has a RACING BEAT intake manifold for a WEBER DCOE 50MM carb. (no actuator mechanism), so the engine is for hi revving use, free exhaust of course, stock porting; last rebuild we used carbon apexes, and cryo hardened sides.... and compression was from bad to worst with use, and frustrating to start (IF it did!) so we decided to return to street "grade" 3mm 2 piece apex seals. Now the car is very pleasurable to use, starts insolently at first bump in compression, and waaaay better torque!
upon rebuilding the engine I found that where the "sleeve" (found out today that's whats called) is is empty, and a crude looking hole, not the aerodinamichal passage I might expect, and there goes the atkins part.

today I tried to fit the device but a few questions came up:

1.- the original diameter of the hole in the port is the dia of the exterior of the sleeve, MINUS the thickness of the sleeve wall, MINUS the area of the actuator shaft that comes w/ the atkins part.

that leaves a VERY RESTRICTED cross sectional area which NEGATES, all effort made by the soft and fluid curve at the end of the device. definitelly restricts flow!

2.- opposite of the curve is the 'tube" of the sleeve poorly finished (squared cut, burs and all) witch contrast with all the detail in "bellmouthING" the inlet, and sharpening the "walls" of the ramp at the end of the device.

3.- fitment of the device is very snug, but not tight (like a piston with no rings in a cyl), it cam freely rotate (that is what is designed for).

invariably I HAVE to glue the device permanently.
Im thinking of sppliting open the device logitudinally since the oposite wall is only occupying space, thus area inside the tube.
thinning the wall of the device overall.

PLEASE HELP!!!
all REYNOLDS gurus out there!!!
IS IT REALLY WORTH IT !?
I'll be REALLY happy with 4hp!

 

Sorry no help here, but I also have a 1995 Formula Mazda with the 50 DCOE. Brapbrap!

 

I would get a spare 6 port housing and visit a flow bench with your sleeves and with some plato.

Try flowing the port empty, try flowing it with the sleeve and try flowing it with various shaped of plato slugs at the end of the port.

The dead end on the aux port looks horrible, but perhaps the turbulence at the ugly end guides the airflow out the port fairly nicely.

Another trick I have seen people do is to make a slug that presses in or is glued/screwed/bolted from the side that is shaped for flow. You can experiment with this shape with your plato.

Are you even allowed by your class to have a portion of the intake manifold extend into the port? If so, what are others doing?

 

generally the wing is glued inside the port sleeve, the sleeve is then glued to the iron, then you can port the auxiliary ports with the sleeve for smoother transitions. the new atkins sleeves are made of all one piece CNC machined aluminum.

the RX8 however has the auxiliary ports in the shape of a corkscrew for even better aerodynamics than the atkins sleeves(unfortunately they are larger and will not fit).