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Flywheel bolt

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Old 04-05-13, 01:44 PM
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Flywheel bolt

I have read plenty of post saying how people got the flywheel bolt off but on, I never expected it to be this tough. I've had map gas on it for ten minutes straight and no go with the impact gun. If anyone can give me a ray of hope I would appreciate it.
Old 04-05-13, 03:24 PM
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1. you need a way to stop the flywheel.
2. you need a way to apply tremendous torque.

there are actual tools available, but there are alternatives if you're creative enough.
Old 04-05-13, 03:32 PM
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Actually used a come along to strap the motor to the table with a 2x4 under the flywheel. No luck, cracked the cheap socket.

Force? I have a impact with 500ft lbs of torque. How much more do you need?
Old 04-05-13, 03:48 PM
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I have heard of people having success with impact wrenches (diesel-grade), but I haven't seen any impact wrench remove one. chances are ... it's laughing at your measly 500 ft-lbs. I have also tried that 2x4-thing and unsurprisingly, the amount force required caused the flywheel to tear up the 2x4 ... as i'm sure you now know.

lock the flywheel and use a tool with insane leverage applied. there's no getting around it. I bought a ratchet and socket (1") and I use them in tandem with about 4 feet of spare exhaust pipe I have laying around.
Old 04-05-13, 04:13 PM
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Lightbulb Yep

I had a hard time too removing my flywheel during my swap. Use a flywheel stop from Mazdatrix, that is the first tool I bought and recommending you to buy if you have not.

I had to call in for some back to help me to hold my engine down, but truth be told I ended up using a dead blow mallet and a chisel to get off the flywheel nut. Luckily I had an extra flywheel nut to replace the one I chiseled off.

However I do not recommend using a chisel and mallet like I did, but if all else fails and you are desperate enough by all means....
Old 04-05-13, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by S4 Vert
I had to call in for some back to help me to hold my engine down, but truth be told I ended up using a dead blow mallet and a chisel to get off the flywheel nut. Luckily I had an extra flywheel nut to replace the one I chiseled off.

However I do not recommend using a chisel and mallet like I did, but if all else fails and you are desperate enough by all means....
that was actually how I was taught to remove them. so I honestly thought nothing of it for years when I kept removing them with that method. sometimes they'd end up so mangled that I had to replace them. however, when I moved from NYC and ended up in FL with no brother and no friends, buying tools became a necessity because I did not have help to do engines. eventually, I figured there had to be a better way. I was right.

I will be getting a "proper" flywheel stopper as soon as I can, too. so far. I've been using an old alternator bracket.
Old 04-05-13, 05:49 PM
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Arrow Like deja-vu all over again..........

Originally Posted by Bleeblobz
I have read plenty of post saying how people got the flywheel bolt off but on, I never expected it to be this tough. I've had map gas on it for ten minutes straight and no go with the impact gun. If anyone can give me a ray of hope I would appreciate it.
Had the same issue back in the day ---> https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...el-nut-267872/
I know you said you had an impact, and so did I. BUT....a couple years after that thread I bought that HF Impact mentioned at the end of this thread and spun it right off. Now... if you think the FW nut is tough, the front hub bolt is a league by itself. Should be a law against those.
Old 04-06-13, 03:02 AM
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sorry you all had such problems. my impact gun and 40 dollar! impact socket took it right off.
Old 04-06-13, 09:40 AM
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Mazdatrix sells some specialty tools, including a flywheel stop. It runs about $25 without shipping. The link is below

Tools
Old 04-06-13, 09:45 AM
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heres what i did. thread in some longer bolts into the flywheel where the flexplate bolts in. then use a a nice crow bar wedged between the bolts and that will hold it while you use a 5ft breaker bar blessed by the beard of Zeus and its peaches!
Old 04-06-13, 10:24 AM
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My fix was a five foot long piece of angle iron with two holes drilled in it so you can bolt it to the flywheel to prevent the flywheel from turning and then use a four or five foot breaker bar. If you situate these properly then the engine does not flop around nor does the flywheel turn. Cheapest way Ive found.
Old 04-06-13, 10:42 AM
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I have a brother in law who works on huge diesel trucks, the ones that move iron ore. He really follows his works rules of not allowing people to use his tools though. I like the idea of putting larger bolts in the flywheel and putting a bar through it. I was thinking last night I would try welding a rod on the bolt? It's coming off today, its been half a week of trying.
Old 04-06-13, 10:43 AM
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The bolt is standard thread, not reverse, correct?
Old 04-06-13, 11:28 AM
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its standard. its isn't reverse thread. i broke several tools before i had the bright idea to load the engine into the back of my jeep and carry it over to a mechanic shop and just asked one of the guys to put there impact on it. it came off with such ease that i almost became sick at what effort i had wasted on mine. i didn't have the flywheel stop. i had a 1 foot length of small chain i picked up from the local hardware store and a 2 1/8 socket ready for the guy. i bolted the flywheel to the engine and he had it off in less than 2 seconds. no charge. sometimes you'd be surprised with what some guys will do to prove that they are more masculine/knowledgeable than another guy. hence i had a mechanic take off my bolt for free because he just wanted to make me feel dumb or something hahaha...because i was the dumb one... :-0
Old 04-06-13, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Bleeblobz
The bolt is standard thread, not reverse, correct?
Yep..lefty loosey..righty tighty.
SIZE:2-1/8th or 54mm.
Get a piece of flat stock and put holes in it where the pressure plate bolts on.
Attach the flat stock to the flywheel and turn the Flywheel so that the bar hits the ground to stop the Flywheel from turning.This is really the key,because if it is moving you get Zero torque on the nut.
Put your impact gun or your Breaker bar and socket on and "go nuts".
Old 04-06-13, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Bleeblobz
I have a brother in law who works on huge diesel trucks, the ones that move iron ore. He really follows his works rules of not allowing people to use his tools though.
well, as they day ... if the mountain won't move to Mohammad ...

Originally Posted by mikes88gtu
i broke several tools before i had the bright idea to load the engine into the back of my jeep and carry it over to a mechanic shop and just asked one of the guys to put there impact on it. it came off with such ease that i almost became sick at what effort i had wasted on mine.
... then Mohammad must move to the mountain!

exactly! throw it in the trunk of something and take it to your brother-in-law's job. I had to do that once or twice for the front main bolt. this is the route to take, especially if you're only doing this once. the tools, while worth the money to someone like me, may not be worth it to others. they're not cheap. last time I went to Sears, the same socket and ratchet handle I bought years ago for $40 is now $80!

or you could get creative ....
Old 04-06-13, 05:49 PM
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I went to the local rental store and picked up a 3' breaker bar. I think the pressure needed is around 650 psi. The 3' breaker bar worked like a charm.
Old 04-06-13, 06:13 PM
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Got it. What I did. I used a come along and strapped the motor to a table with two 2x4's sandwiched on top and bottom of the flywheel. Heated the bolt with map gas for far too long and used a 2' breaker and a 4' pipe. Then I cranked on it for a couple hours. Off it popped.
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