first time working on the RX, help?
Hi, I'm Noel (knowll) Ibought a 84 GS as a fun back-up car for when i sold my 92 300zx. The ZX is totalled so the RX is now my daily driver. I've owned 2 300zx's in the past 4 years and only begun to learn how to work on cars with them, so the RX is a whole new experience. I'm learning fairly quick with the help of the Hanes huide and reading everything and anything on the rotart engine. I LOVE the car, I love hearing the winding sound speeding up and slowing down it's like none other.
At the moment my project that I'm working on its my coolant/oil system. I have removed and am repalcing the following :
REMOVED:
-radiator
-water pump
REMOVING:
-Thermostat
-Beehive oil cooler to replace o-rings (pretty sure they're casueing my oil leak)
****does anyone know where the other 2 o-rings go??? I found a thread but
the pictures are "X'd" and wont show up.
-thanks Noel
At the moment my project that I'm working on its my coolant/oil system. I have removed and am repalcing the following :
REMOVED:
-radiator
-water pump
REMOVING:
-Thermostat
-Beehive oil cooler to replace o-rings (pretty sure they're casueing my oil leak)
****does anyone know where the other 2 o-rings go??? I found a thread but
the pictures are "X'd" and wont show up.
-thanks Noel
what do u mean about Other 2 o rings?
the beehive is bolted to the block with to studs in the beehive with 2 corresponding nuts underneath, and between the block and the hive there are 2 o rings that with age do have a high tendancey to leak, dose this clarify anything?
As far as everything else you mentioned, it is all pretty straight forward, a note tho, if you do end up removing the housing that the water pump bolts into, between it and the block on 2 of the studs coming out of the block there are 2 vary thin washer that need to go back on if removed, this is something that can be over looked potently causing leeks.
the beehive is bolted to the block with to studs in the beehive with 2 corresponding nuts underneath, and between the block and the hive there are 2 o rings that with age do have a high tendancey to leak, dose this clarify anything?
As far as everything else you mentioned, it is all pretty straight forward, a note tho, if you do end up removing the housing that the water pump bolts into, between it and the block on 2 of the studs coming out of the block there are 2 vary thin washer that need to go back on if removed, this is something that can be over looked potently causing leeks.
if u have a haynes manual there are 3 bolts which it says to "never losen" the other two o-rings are hinding there, i've found a few pictures of them now and even though it says to never loosen from a lot of the threads i've read people do replace all four, if not the top two can cause leaking. thanks for the advide on the washers, much appriacted!
re: water pump:
be r-e-a-l-l-y careful re-torquing the pump back on!!! only about 16 Ft/lbs of torque or you'll strip 'em!!!
Great time to replace ALL the heater and rad hoses if they haven't been done!!
I use a dab of good old axle grease on BOTH surfaces of pump AND connecting points of hoses - seals water-tight and makes removal a BREEZE next time you service these parts (like: no scrapping off old gaskets, for eg.)
Next time post your Q's in the First Gen Forum to get more responses
Welcome
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
be r-e-a-l-l-y careful re-torquing the pump back on!!! only about 16 Ft/lbs of torque or you'll strip 'em!!!
Great time to replace ALL the heater and rad hoses if they haven't been done!!
I use a dab of good old axle grease on BOTH surfaces of pump AND connecting points of hoses - seals water-tight and makes removal a BREEZE next time you service these parts (like: no scrapping off old gaskets, for eg.)
Next time post your Q's in the First Gen Forum to get more responses
Welcome
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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