A few questions...
02-25-13, 08:08 PM
#1
A few questions...
ok, so last week i bought my '82 fb, but it just seems to run really really rich. idk what to do, the car runs really really good but also runs crazy rich lol. about the only thing i know is the PO built the motor and took off all of the emissions stuff. should i adjust the carb or just leave it alone?
also, the coolant temp gauge seems to "kinda" work, idk if the car just doesnt run hot or if the thermostat is open or missing, or if the temp switch is bad. the needle only goes maybe 1/4 of the way up the gauge... i know the cluster is out of an '83, but the only difference seems to be the speedo.. anyone know what i should do?
also, the coolant temp gauge seems to "kinda" work, idk if the car just doesnt run hot or if the thermostat is open or missing, or if the temp switch is bad. the needle only goes maybe 1/4 of the way up the gauge... i know the cluster is out of an '83, but the only difference seems to be the speedo.. anyone know what i should do?
03-06-13, 04:58 PM
#3
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running rich can give a cooling effect...
It is good to get a high quality water temp gauge to reference over the stock guage in the cluster so you don't roast your rotary (heat is an enemy). more searching around on the forum will get you references to what sensors and guages can be most accurate and what's in your price range. I am in the same process myself, just not in a big hurry since I can't go pick up my new rotary for 2 weeks
It's both sad and exciting though haha
I would think the answer to your first question will depend on what "emissions stuff" was removed. Do you mean oil breather hoses? or exhaust cat?
It is good to get a high quality water temp gauge to reference over the stock guage in the cluster so you don't roast your rotary (heat is an enemy). more searching around on the forum will get you references to what sensors and guages can be most accurate and what's in your price range. I am in the same process myself, just not in a big hurry since I can't go pick up my new rotary for 2 weeks
It's both sad and exciting though hahaI would think the answer to your first question will depend on what "emissions stuff" was removed. Do you mean oil breather hoses? or exhaust cat?
03-09-13, 10:20 PM
#4
i know rich can help cool the motor, but its pretty darn bad lol.. by "emissions stuff" i mean everything lol.. smog pump/s, vac lines, cat, everything lol... im more worried about the temp gauge either working or not lol.. do u know where the temp switch is located? i dont mind to replace it i am just not sure where it is...
03-11-13, 12:12 AM
#5
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I'm no expert on the emissions stuff. But dang that is a lot removed haha.
Here's a pic on this thread of the temp sensor location. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...85-12a-256947/
Good luck with it!
Here's a pic on this thread of the temp sensor location. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...85-12a-256947/
Good luck with it!
03-12-13, 12:26 AM
#6
I'm no expert on the emissions stuff. But dang that is a lot removed haha.
Here's a pic on this thread of the temp sensor location. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...85-12a-256947/
Good luck with it!
Here's a pic on this thread of the temp sensor location. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...85-12a-256947/
Good luck with it!
03-12-13, 09:35 AM
#7
welcome to the board. 
"rich" is a pretty broad and relative term. can you paint a clearer picture of the issues you're having with the mixture? smoking? hard starts? flooding? misfiring? etc. rotaries tend to run rich when things are "normal".
as for the temperature, i guess you don't want things to be "too cool", i doubt there's anything wrong. i've found that the stock gauges are pretty good about telling you when you're getting in trouble, but their versions of "normal" can vary anywhere between just above the "C" to about halfway to the "H". i wouldn't discourage you from confirming with another gauge, but i wouldn't tell you to lose sleep over it either.
"rich" is a pretty broad and relative term. can you paint a clearer picture of the issues you're having with the mixture? smoking? hard starts? flooding? misfiring? etc. rotaries tend to run rich when things are "normal".
as for the temperature, i guess you don't want things to be "too cool", i doubt there's anything wrong. i've found that the stock gauges are pretty good about telling you when you're getting in trouble, but their versions of "normal" can vary anywhere between just above the "C" to about halfway to the "H". i wouldn't discourage you from confirming with another gauge, but i wouldn't tell you to lose sleep over it either.
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03-13-13, 05:12 PM
#8
welcome to the board.
"rich" is a pretty broad and relative term. can you paint a clearer picture of the issues you're having with the mixture? smoking? hard starts? flooding? misfiring? etc. rotaries tend to run rich when things are "normal".
as for the temperature, i guess you don't want things to be "too cool", i doubt there's anything wrong. i've found that the stock gauges are pretty good about telling you when you're getting in trouble, but their versions of "normal" can vary anywhere between just above the "C" to about halfway to the "H". i wouldn't discourage you from confirming with another gauge, but i wouldn't tell you to lose sleep over it either.
"rich" is a pretty broad and relative term. can you paint a clearer picture of the issues you're having with the mixture? smoking? hard starts? flooding? misfiring? etc. rotaries tend to run rich when things are "normal".
as for the temperature, i guess you don't want things to be "too cool", i doubt there's anything wrong. i've found that the stock gauges are pretty good about telling you when you're getting in trouble, but their versions of "normal" can vary anywhere between just above the "C" to about halfway to the "H". i wouldn't discourage you from confirming with another gauge, but i wouldn't tell you to lose sleep over it either.
the temp gauge goes just over the "C" and i may just replace the temp sender to see if it changes anything, if not i wont worry too much.. just out of curiosity, what temp do these engines normally run? i have an infrared thermometer that is pretty accurate that i use for my nitro rc car.. if i get the car warmed up and it runs at the correct temp, i wont worry much about it.
03-13-13, 06:52 PM
#9
Running too cool isn't really a concern, although you could have a thermostat stuck open. The '82 also has an oil cooler which also has a thermostat.
As far as running rich goes - if the car smells like a lawnmower and it stings your eyes to stand behind it while it's running... it's normal. That's a rotary! The previous owner removed all the emissions equipment and I'd bet the exhaust isn't stock either, so you're gonna taste the air around it.
If the car runs good, then I wouldn't jinx it by touching the carb. Just enjoy not having to work on it for a little bit!
As far as running rich goes - if the car smells like a lawnmower and it stings your eyes to stand behind it while it's running... it's normal. That's a rotary! The previous owner removed all the emissions equipment and I'd bet the exhaust isn't stock either, so you're gonna taste the air around it.
If the car runs good, then I wouldn't jinx it by touching the carb. Just enjoy not having to work on it for a little bit!
03-14-13, 07:13 PM
#10
Running too cool isn't really a concern, although you could have a thermostat stuck open. The '82 also has an oil cooler which also has a thermostat.
As far as running rich goes - if the car smells like a lawnmower and it stings your eyes to stand behind it while it's running... it's normal. That's a rotary! The previous owner removed all the emissions equipment and I'd bet the exhaust isn't stock either, so you're gonna taste the air around it.
If the car runs good, then I wouldn't jinx it by touching the carb. Just enjoy not having to work on it for a little bit!
As far as running rich goes - if the car smells like a lawnmower and it stings your eyes to stand behind it while it's running... it's normal. That's a rotary! The previous owner removed all the emissions equipment and I'd bet the exhaust isn't stock either, so you're gonna taste the air around it.
If the car runs good, then I wouldn't jinx it by touching the carb. Just enjoy not having to work on it for a little bit!
has anyone put anything like msd coils on these? i havent searched for that yet, but i would think that would at least give a little better burn rate and better performance.
the only thing that worries me about the temp is idk if the gauge works or not and i dont want it overheating and i not know.
03-14-13, 11:15 PM
#11
Yes, MSD coils are a common mod, as are different kinds of direct fire setups. 2nd gen coils have also been used with a lot of success. Do a search in the first gen section for "2GCDFIS" (2nd gen coil direct fire ignition system) and a lot of threads on it will come up.
When the gauges go out, they get erratic or just stop reading altogether. So I really doubt that's the problem. Although an aftermarket gauge and sensor is a great mod to have on any rotary. Quick test of the thermostat - start up the car and feel the upper radiator hose. It should remain cool until the engine is mostly warmed up, at which point the t-stat opens and the hose will get hot. You should also not feel a lot of pressure in the hose before the thermostat opens. If you do, the thermostat is probably stuck open.
When the gauges go out, they get erratic or just stop reading altogether. So I really doubt that's the problem. Although an aftermarket gauge and sensor is a great mod to have on any rotary. Quick test of the thermostat - start up the car and feel the upper radiator hose. It should remain cool until the engine is mostly warmed up, at which point the t-stat opens and the hose will get hot. You should also not feel a lot of pressure in the hose before the thermostat opens. If you do, the thermostat is probably stuck open.
03-15-13, 09:53 PM
#12
Yes, MSD coils are a common mod, as are different kinds of direct fire setups. 2nd gen coils have also been used with a lot of success. Do a search in the first gen section for "2GCDFIS" (2nd gen coil direct fire ignition system) and a lot of threads on it will come up.
When the gauges go out, they get erratic or just stop reading altogether. So I really doubt that's the problem. Although an aftermarket gauge and sensor is a great mod to have on any rotary. Quick test of the thermostat - start up the car and feel the upper radiator hose. It should remain cool until the engine is mostly warmed up, at which point the t-stat opens and the hose will get hot. You should also not feel a lot of pressure in the hose before the thermostat opens. If you do, the thermostat is probably stuck open.
When the gauges go out, they get erratic or just stop reading altogether. So I really doubt that's the problem. Although an aftermarket gauge and sensor is a great mod to have on any rotary. Quick test of the thermostat - start up the car and feel the upper radiator hose. It should remain cool until the engine is mostly warmed up, at which point the t-stat opens and the hose will get hot. You should also not feel a lot of pressure in the hose before the thermostat opens. If you do, the thermostat is probably stuck open.
03-17-13, 08:42 PM
#13
I've got a 2nd gen coil waiting to go on my first gen, just have to get a few other projects done first.
03-17-13, 10:08 PM
#14
A lot of the threads are old so the links on the pictures are broken. This thread may help: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...fidfis-894669/
I've got a 2nd gen coil waiting to go on my first gen, just have to get a few other projects done first.
I've got a 2nd gen coil waiting to go on my first gen, just have to get a few other projects done first.
but i did have to advance the dizzy all the way to get a good smooth idle.. is that normal?
03-17-13, 10:55 PM
#15
Sounds like your vacuum advance isn't hooked up right or at all Be careful advancing the timing at idle - the dizzy has a mechanical advance that will advance your timing way too much at high RPM if you already have it advanced a lot at idle. Could pose a danger to the motor. The vacuum advance is supposed to advance the timing at idle, and has no effect on higher RPM. The two pods on the dizzy should be tee'd to a vacuum source on the carb spacer.
03-18-13, 03:50 PM
#16
Sounds like your vacuum advance isn't hooked up right or at all Be careful advancing the timing at idle - the dizzy has a mechanical advance that will advance your timing way too much at high RPM if you already have it advanced a lot at idle. Could pose a danger to the motor. The vacuum advance is supposed to advance the timing at idle, and has no effect on higher RPM. The two pods on the dizzy should be tee'd to a vacuum source on the carb spacer.
03-18-13, 06:21 PM
#18
i dont have a timing light, but im sure i could get my hands on one.. now as to how to use one, i have no idea lol.. as long as i have worked on cars i havent ever had the need to use one. how would i go about setting the factory timing?
03-18-13, 06:33 PM
#19
1. whether they mean to be dishonest or not, take everything a PO says with a grain of salt. whatever issues you have or suspect, go ahead and check them out yourself anyway. it's the best practice.
2. it's pretty easy actually. use the FSM (or other shop manual) for reference.
here's a general synopsis though: when you get the light, clean up your main pulley to expose the timing marks. if you're lucky, they'll have traces of the original paint on them (I think they were red and yellow). secure the ground clip. put the inductor on the appropriate spark plug wire (leading or trailing) of rotor 1 (front) while the engine is running and point the gun at the main pulley where the timing pin is. adjust accordingly.
2. it's pretty easy actually. use the FSM (or other shop manual) for reference.
here's a general synopsis though: when you get the light, clean up your main pulley to expose the timing marks. if you're lucky, they'll have traces of the original paint on them (I think they were red and yellow). secure the ground clip. put the inductor on the appropriate spark plug wire (leading or trailing) of rotor 1 (front) while the engine is running and point the gun at the main pulley where the timing pin is. adjust accordingly.
03-18-13, 06:54 PM
#20
1. whether they mean to be dishonest or not, take everything a PO says with a grain of salt. whatever issues you have or suspect, go ahead and check them out yourself anyway. it's the best practice.
2. it's pretty easy actually. use the FSM (or other shop manual) for reference.
here's a general synopsis though: when you get the light, clean up your main pulley to expose the timing marks. if you're lucky, they'll have traces of the original paint on them (I think they were red and yellow). secure the ground clip. put the inductor on the appropriate spark plug wire (leading or trailing) of rotor 1 (front) while the engine is running and point the gun at the main pulley where the timing pin is. adjust accordingly.
2. it's pretty easy actually. use the FSM (or other shop manual) for reference.
here's a general synopsis though: when you get the light, clean up your main pulley to expose the timing marks. if you're lucky, they'll have traces of the original paint on them (I think they were red and yellow). secure the ground clip. put the inductor on the appropriate spark plug wire (leading or trailing) of rotor 1 (front) while the engine is running and point the gun at the main pulley where the timing pin is. adjust accordingly.
03-18-13, 07:33 PM
#21
Never assume the PO knew what he was doing But if it ran right before and you didn't knock anything loose then it's probably not the issue. But you should always make sure before adjusting the screws on the carb because you can make it really hard to find "normal" again.
Timing these cars is just like any other car, you just have to use an inductive light (the cheap kind.) It'll come with instructions or you can check Youtube. The pulley will have two marks, one for leading and one for trailing. You base timing on the front rotor. It should flash at a steady rate, but the goal here is to see the mark on the pulley in reference to the needle above it. Oh, and cap off the vacuum advance before checking it. Once you have it set right, you can hook the vacuum advance back up and check again to see that it's advancing the timing at idle.
But if it ran right before and you didn't knock anything loose then it's probably not the issue. But you should always make sure before adjusting the screws on the carb because you can make it really hard to find "normal" again.Timing these cars is just like any other car, you just have to use an inductive light (the cheap kind.) It'll come with instructions or you can check Youtube. The pulley will have two marks, one for leading and one for trailing. You base timing on the front rotor. It should flash at a steady rate, but the goal here is to see the mark on the pulley in reference to the needle above it. Oh, and cap off the vacuum advance before checking it. Once you have it set right, you can hook the vacuum advance back up and check again to see that it's advancing the timing at idle.
03-18-13, 07:48 PM
#22
you're basically looking for the timing marks on the pulley (one for leading and one for trailing) with respect to TDC. your reference point is the timing pin (that might not be the correct name, but there is a needle-like thing on the front cover). the light pulses with the spark when attached to the spark plug wire.
not sure I did the best job explaining it, but it should make much more sense when you get the light in your hand and it's hooked up.
you adjust the timing by loosening the set nut on the distributor and turning it according to which way the mark needs to move (advance or retard).
EDIT:
1. LizardFC beat to it.
2. and I forgot to mention that you'll be loosening the set screws on the pots on the distributor and turning them, when you do the trailing.
not sure I did the best job explaining it, but it should make much more sense when you get the light in your hand and it's hooked up.
you adjust the timing by loosening the set nut on the distributor and turning it according to which way the mark needs to move (advance or retard).
EDIT:
1. LizardFC beat to it.
2. and I forgot to mention that you'll be loosening the set screws on the pots on the distributor and turning them, when you do the trailing.
03-19-13, 12:51 PM
#24
there are two "pots" (i'm not really good with technical names, if you haven't noticed) on the right side of the distributor. when you look at the distributor, you will see what i'm talking about. as I said, get a copy of the FSM, you will learn much more.
as far as making plans to retard it, wait until you confirm where the timing currently is.
as far as making plans to retard it, wait until you confirm where the timing currently is.
03-19-13, 03:19 PM
#25
Yeah you don't want your timing to be all retarded. The pots are the little pods with vacuum lines I mentioned earlier. One has a screw that allows you to move it and set the trailing timing. No touchy until you get the leading right though. If you can get the thing to Knoxville this weekend I could take a look.