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Last year i parked the car after i had overheated it, i dont think it was too terrible. It would still start and idle low, but i didnt want to get wrenching on it in the -30s. So its been about 8 months, i got my compression tester in and the coolant system tester gets here this weekend. I went out today to try and get it started to get it warmed up to compression test it but it would not start. I said **** it ill run the compression test cold and got 88 93 88 on the front rotor and 120 121 122 on the rear. Guess the front rotor is toast. Im gonna wait for the coolant system tester to get here to see if it the coolant seal.
I had originally started this post for it not starting cold, then ran out and did the compression numbers. I just figured it would still start with compression that low only in the front rotor, but i guess not. Whats a good bang for the buck seal kit, hopefully thats all i need.
I don’t think what is keeping it from starting is the apparently low compression. But you might need a rebuild depending on the coolant pressure test and a better engine compression test.
If that’s the case my recommendation is to go OEM for all hard seals, springs and soft seals.
Im not sure whats keeping it from firing up. It wants to start. I got it started twice, then after like 10 seconds it died. I deflooded it using wd40 and also by pulling the plugs and turning it over a few times with the egi relay out. It seems to be getting fuel and spark, should be getting air. If the coolant pressure turns out good i may try and load up the base tune.
Got the pressure tester in today, found a leak on the o-ring of whatever is pictured. Im guessing thats the thermoswitch. The wire also just fell apart. Like maybe one strand was holding it on. Hopefully thats the root of the problem. Still have no idea if the coolant seal is screwed or not.
Edit: NVM just looked at thermoswitches on google, this was taken off the front of the water pump, a little below the filler neck i have no idea what this is. Or its aftermarket.... Final edit, its the Coolant Level Sensor.
It’s the coolant level sensor. Low level will cause alarm/buzzer and a light on your stock temperature gauge but no effect on how the car starts and runs.
