FD rear when suspension noises....
12-26-11, 10:11 PM
#1
Ill put a 8 pack in after
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FD rear when suspension noises....
Hi , I have a 92 model FD ( BTW, whats a 92? all service things and info I find seems to start at 93?) anyways I have a clunk/ knock sound from rear end. Its sounds (doesint feel that bad tho) like a wheels is loose, even stopped a couple of time to tighten and chcek.
When I get under there everthing is tight and good, seems to be. just got it certified and wofed in last 3 weeks sooo...
Its driving me nuts please help
When I get under there everthing is tight and good, seems to be. just got it certified and wofed in last 3 weeks sooo...
Its driving me nuts please help
12-27-11, 03:17 PM
#2
Sources of clunks in the rear suspension come from worn out "pillowball" bushings in the upper and lower control arms and toe links. Replace with new OEM.
In some instances, it could also be the rear differential bushings. Those are liquid filled to decrease Noise Vibration and Harshness and eventually fail. Replace with aftermarket poly bushes.
There are threads on both topics in the 3rd gen FAQ which is linked to from the stickied threads you acknowledged reading.
In some instances, it could also be the rear differential bushings. Those are liquid filled to decrease Noise Vibration and Harshness and eventually fail. Replace with aftermarket poly bushes.
There are threads on both topics in the 3rd gen FAQ which is linked to from the stickied threads you acknowledged reading.
12-28-11, 05:53 AM
#3
In North America the first FDs were designated 93 models, even though many have a build date in 1992. Regardless, your's is a Series 6 as is all North American LHD models. And AFAIK no significant suspension differences throughout FD production (S6 to S8).
12-28-11, 04:48 PM
#4
VioletJ,
Replacing the rear bushings was among the first mods for both of my FDs.
In the spirit of addressing the main culprit and keeping expenses down, I'd recommend starting with replacing the pillow ball (one on each arm) where the trailing arm connects to the lower control arm. You could replace them with OEM pillow *****, but I'd recommend getting them here instead:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=atomic+rex
In addition to being marginally less expensive than OEM, the Atomic Rex pillow ball bushings appear to be substantially more solid, and I'm willing to bet these will last longer than the OEM pillow *****. Starting with just these two bushings might just be enough to get rid of that annoying clunking.
Taking things a step futher, if your budget permits, I'd also consider going Powerflex on the remaining bushings, to help reduce toe changes under acceleration and braking, which I noticed also affects vehicle rotation and stability during on/off throttle while cornering. However, keeping on the topic of bushings, I wouldn't recommend increasing the stiffness of the diff bushings unless you're prepared to have the omnipresent noise of gears resonating inside the cabin.
Replacing the rear bushings was among the first mods for both of my FDs.
In the spirit of addressing the main culprit and keeping expenses down, I'd recommend starting with replacing the pillow ball (one on each arm) where the trailing arm connects to the lower control arm. You could replace them with OEM pillow *****, but I'd recommend getting them here instead:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=atomic+rex
In addition to being marginally less expensive than OEM, the Atomic Rex pillow ball bushings appear to be substantially more solid, and I'm willing to bet these will last longer than the OEM pillow *****. Starting with just these two bushings might just be enough to get rid of that annoying clunking.
Taking things a step futher, if your budget permits, I'd also consider going Powerflex on the remaining bushings, to help reduce toe changes under acceleration and braking, which I noticed also affects vehicle rotation and stability during on/off throttle while cornering. However, keeping on the topic of bushings, I wouldn't recommend increasing the stiffness of the diff bushings unless you're prepared to have the omnipresent noise of gears resonating inside the cabin.
12-28-11, 11:07 PM
#5
Ill put a 8 pack in after
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Too much for the reply!
Wholy crap this site actully works! thank you.
As I say im fairly new to theese vechiles , been a parts sales all my life though and do rebuild my own piston engines and have well set up home workshop with mostly all tools ,pride myself on never going to a shop, if costs Im paying for my learning if stuff it up.
Anyways, Ive been under the vechile again, as stated only just got wof and certification true its not over flash but its clean and tidy. I have already replaced the engine and diff mount bushes for solid nolathane bushes to reduce ' tramping' and I have checked all other bushes.
Today was looking at the camber on the lower heal? anyways the actull cam when I undone was very hard to do back up as in ceased, also coulint turn cam all the way to both sides of adjustment. Its as tight as can get with out smapping but it doesint feel like its holding particully tight, this may have been like this all along, I imagine some or any movement here would do some funny stuff... correct?
Were would the best place in NZ or reliable credit card overseas place I could get theese?
Money isint a object , just time.... more expensive I wait tis my weekend toy and like it right and reliable.
Ill try post a pick, what you think? I think files are attached , how do i embed them?
As I say im fairly new to theese vechiles , been a parts sales all my life though and do rebuild my own piston engines and have well set up home workshop with mostly all tools ,pride myself on never going to a shop, if costs Im paying for my learning if stuff it up.
Anyways, Ive been under the vechile again, as stated only just got wof and certification true its not over flash but its clean and tidy. I have already replaced the engine and diff mount bushes for solid nolathane bushes to reduce ' tramping' and I have checked all other bushes.
Today was looking at the camber on the lower heal? anyways the actull cam when I undone was very hard to do back up as in ceased, also coulint turn cam all the way to both sides of adjustment. Its as tight as can get with out smapping but it doesint feel like its holding particully tight, this may have been like this all along, I imagine some or any movement here would do some funny stuff... correct?
Were would the best place in NZ or reliable credit card overseas place I could get theese?
Money isint a object , just time.... more expensive I wait tis my weekend toy and like it right and reliable.
Ill try post a pick, what you think? I think files are attached , how do i embed them?
12-28-11, 11:32 PM
#6
For OEM parts, most of us get our stuff from Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda. he is the parts manager and offers pretty nice discounts. Don't know how FX and shipping works against getting it local though...
Ray's number and email is in the 3rd gen FAQ
Ray's number and email is in the 3rd gen FAQ
09-23-12, 02:26 AM
#7
Ill put a 8 pack in after
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Updated- problem resolved!
Hi , thanks for all your guys help, took me alil while to get the parts and done some engine management upgrades at the same time but the suggestions about the joints in the rear arms was bang on. Ended up replacing the whole lot to take the guess work out of it, started her up , went for drive- quiet as.
Thanks again for all the help!
Thanks again for all the help!
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