New Member RX-7 Technical Post your first technical questions here, in an easy flame free environment, before jumping into the main technical sections.

FD Rear Suspension Lower Arm To Hub Connection Question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-09-17, 07:05 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
redfive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Eugene OR
Posts: 27
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
FD Rear Suspension Lower Arm To Hub Connection Question

Hey. I'm close to completing replacement of rear suspension pillow ball bushings on the my 93 FD. Driver side is complete and all the new (OEM) bushings are installed on the passenger side but I am having a hell of a time getting the end of the passenger side lower arm back in between the ears of the wheel hub. I even disconnected the inboard end of the arm and still couldn't get it to fit. I didn't have any problem at all on the driver side. Before I get out a file I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and has any advice?

Thanks in advance for any tips.
Old 07-10-17, 08:16 AM
  #2  
Full Member
 
OG BBF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: LONDON
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by redfive
Hey. I'm close to completing replacement of rear suspension pillow ball bushings on the my 93 FD. Driver side is complete and all the new (OEM) bushings are installed on the passenger side but I am having a hell of a time getting the end of the passenger side lower arm back in between the ears of the wheel hub. I even disconnected the inboard end of the arm and still couldn't get it to fit. I didn't have any problem at all on the driver side. Before I get out a file I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and has any advice?

Thanks in advance for any tips.
I had the same issue with aftermarket arms using pillowball bushings, issues both sides.....had file down the bushings for them to fit....not had any problems, 5k miles done without issues. Sometimes I guess aftermarket parts need slight alteration.
Old 07-10-17, 11:31 AM
  #3  
It Just Feels Right

iTrader: (11)
 
TomU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 2,238
Received 347 Likes on 258 Posts
You don't have to file anything. Since the hub assembly is aluminum, you can gently spread the tangs (where the I-arm connects) by using a piece of threaded rod with washers and nuts on the inside of the tangs. Then slowly expand the tangs by tightening the nuts. Turn them a couple times and check for fitment. Repeat the spreading procedure if there's not enough clearance
Old 07-10-17, 05:24 PM
  #4  
Urban Combat Vet

iTrader: (16)
 
Sgtblue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mid-west
Posts: 12,023
Received 866 Likes on 615 Posts
^What he said. That protrusion that's keeping the arm from inserting is steel, since the bolt would quickly wear thru the aluminum. Another option to the all-thread with washers and bolts that Tom suggested...I have a long thin brass punch that's pretty effective to tap the steel insert back into the arm.
Old 07-10-17, 11:31 PM
  #5  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
redfive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Eugene OR
Posts: 27
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks all for the responses. Great info. I sure didn't notice the bosses in the ears were steel inserts. Makes sense. I measured the distance between the ear inserts and the new pillowball with calipers. The space is actually about .015 smaller than the new pillowball which explains why it doesn't just slide in. And the old pillow ball was about .005 smaller than the new one. I think I'll try tapping the insert first.
Old 07-13-17, 08:17 PM
  #6  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
redfive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Eugene OR
Posts: 27
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Sgtblue
^What he said. That protrusion that's keeping the arm from inserting is steel, since the bolt would quickly wear thru the aluminum. Another option to the all-thread with washers and bolts that Tom suggested...I have a long thin brass punch that's pretty effective to tap the steel insert back into the arm.
Hey just wanted to say thanks again for the great tip about the steel inserts. I didn't have the appropriate punch to move the insert so I used the same type setup as used to replace the pillowballs i.e. bolt/nut/socket/washers. The insert moved very easily. The arm slipped right in and then torquing the bolt pulled everything back together.
Old 07-14-17, 03:33 AM
  #7  
Urban Combat Vet

iTrader: (16)
 
Sgtblue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mid-west
Posts: 12,023
Received 866 Likes on 615 Posts
You're welcome.
Old 07-24-17, 06:27 PM
  #8  
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
 
telram's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Montreal
Posts: 106
Received 3 Likes on 1 Post
Good info, thanks for sharing guys




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:09 AM.