FD Rear Suspension Lower Arm To Hub Connection Question
#1
FD Rear Suspension Lower Arm To Hub Connection Question
Hey. I'm close to completing replacement of rear suspension pillow ball bushings on the my 93 FD. Driver side is complete and all the new (OEM) bushings are installed on the passenger side but I am having a hell of a time getting the end of the passenger side lower arm back in between the ears of the wheel hub. I even disconnected the inboard end of the arm and still couldn't get it to fit. I didn't have any problem at all on the driver side. Before I get out a file I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and has any advice?
Thanks in advance for any tips.
Thanks in advance for any tips.
#2
Hey. I'm close to completing replacement of rear suspension pillow ball bushings on the my 93 FD. Driver side is complete and all the new (OEM) bushings are installed on the passenger side but I am having a hell of a time getting the end of the passenger side lower arm back in between the ears of the wheel hub. I even disconnected the inboard end of the arm and still couldn't get it to fit. I didn't have any problem at all on the driver side. Before I get out a file I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and has any advice?
Thanks in advance for any tips.
Thanks in advance for any tips.
#3
It Just Feels Right
iTrader: (11)
You don't have to file anything. Since the hub assembly is aluminum, you can gently spread the tangs (where the I-arm connects) by using a piece of threaded rod with washers and nuts on the inside of the tangs. Then slowly expand the tangs by tightening the nuts. Turn them a couple times and check for fitment. Repeat the spreading procedure if there's not enough clearance
#4
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
^What he said. That protrusion that's keeping the arm from inserting is steel, since the bolt would quickly wear thru the aluminum. Another option to the all-thread with washers and bolts that Tom suggested...I have a long thin brass punch that's pretty effective to tap the steel insert back into the arm.
#5
Thanks all for the responses. Great info. I sure didn't notice the bosses in the ears were steel inserts. Makes sense. I measured the distance between the ear inserts and the new pillowball with calipers. The space is actually about .015 smaller than the new pillowball which explains why it doesn't just slide in. And the old pillow ball was about .005 smaller than the new one. I think I'll try tapping the insert first.
#6
^What he said. That protrusion that's keeping the arm from inserting is steel, since the bolt would quickly wear thru the aluminum. Another option to the all-thread with washers and bolts that Tom suggested...I have a long thin brass punch that's pretty effective to tap the steel insert back into the arm.