Hello my names parker, this is my first form I’ve made. So I’ve bought a 1990 na rx7 about 2 months back, bought it with a blow motor, swapped another s5 6 port engine runs perfectly but my clutch sometimes sticks to the floor when I hold it in, ive put a new master cylinder in when I swapped the engine and also just put a slave cylinder in last night and bled it but it still sticks. I’ve also thought it might be the clutch folk but it doesn’t happen every single time so I thought it would be a hydraulic problem and not that. If anyone knows what the problem might be please let me know, I just wanna drive it and not have it sit in my dads driveway. Thanks

 

usually its a bad master cylinder, even if you got a new one it doesnt mean you got a good one. a lot of parts have been sitting on the shelf for years, but be sure you have all the air out before assuming it is the master still.

 

(Please pay attention to the sections you post in as this was moved From HOW TO USE THIS SITE Section..next time I will not move it!)

You need to make sure that ALL air is out of the system..trust me a bubble can linger and shake loose.If you put a clear Hose on the slave bleeder and pump the pedal(I llke 4 times),HOLD and crack the bleeder (this takes TWO people to do)..then you can see the fluid that comes out of the slave and if it has any bubbles..Once the bubbles are gone then your system should be good to go.
You can also do this with a one man brake bleeding kit or a Mityvac.

 

that could be it cause I only bled it till it sprayed brake fluid out and then I stopped, thanks

 

I’ll try that after I bleed it more

 

So it’s most likely not the clutch folk?

 

You gotta have someone hold the pedal while you crack the bleeder and let it squirt fluid..then Tighten the bleeder up again..WITH the clutch pedal still DOWN.
Otherwise you will just suck in air through the bleeder and not get anywhere at all.
Now,the pedal may stick to the floor,in the beginning.But if you raise it up with your foot and push it down again and pump it (Times 4 as I said) and HOLD>.crack bleeder ..squirt..close bleeder..you should be able to get a good clutch pedal feel back.You may have to do this a couple times..it's not just a one time thing..If there is air in there you have to get it out or you just do not have an operational clutch..simple as that.

Lucky this is just an FC,,,,because if it was an FD you'd be pulling your hair out!

 

ok thanks that’s what I did but I probably didn’t do it enough. I also pumped it way more than 4 times, do you know it it matters?

 

There’s nothing wrong with pumping it more, as long as you don’t frantically pump like a madman.

 

just go back and bleed it, no need to keep asking if its ok to bleed it. what's the worst that can happen, the problem gets fixed?

 

Best thing to do is replace the master and slave cylinder. Check the line for leaks as well.

 

After you bleed the system have someone watch to see if the clutch fork moves as you push in the pedal. Will help you see if it is hydraulic or mechanical.

 

Did you swap the throw out bearing upon swapping the tranny? Mine used to do the same.

 

The clutch master is a real bear to bleed. You may have to manually pull the pedal up until you have enough hydraulic pressure to have it come back on its own. My money is on air in the system

 

I got a refund of the master I put in earlier and put it in and now it works fine, I guess it was a defective master cylinder

 

Definitely sounds like master and slave, happened when I purchased my fc clutch would occasionally stick until it eventually wouldn't work, replaced both worked great. 3 years and 40k miles later same thing is happening, seems as they need to be replaced around that time. Also my turbo 2s master was leaking when I purchased it. Common problem.