runrex

finally got around to picking up a front mount and fluidyne rad for my 93, got the car with a DP and catback and mechanically stock otherwise.

Upon install of FMIC/RAD i ended up just pulling the PS/AC and air pump and got a set of block off plastes (my county doesnt require emssions).

As the car sits, UIM is off and i have an Aero 340 pump laying around so i figured id replace plugs/wires/vacuum hoses and upgrade the injectors while im at it in preparation for a PFC come spring.

My questions are for a 300-350whp goal on stock twins
1. which vacuum lines/solenoids/sensors can by removed/bypassed with keeping sequentials but removing all emssions
2. which injectors (1680/Id2000) and im assuming it requires upgraded secondary rail after some research, but which size should i order and which rail is best.
3. Best battery relocate setup (smaller battery in the bin or larger battery in the trunk)

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

No offense, but your post is a good example of why I recommend NEW owners with a near-stock car just do maintenance for the first year, familiarize themselves with the car and study up before pulling stuff from the car.
*First, you might want to explore options to a FMIC for this car. Yes it's just my opinion, but I've been around this car a while, and just around a lot longer. Cooling on a forced-induction rotary is everything. Sticking a big IC in front of the radiator on a streeted car jeopardizes that and IMO not necessary. With good ducting there are many good SMICs out there that will produce good IATs, low pressure drop and support well above your hp goals. They don't require screwing with crash worthiness by cutting bumpers, all the plumbing and relate expense either. And if you've got the budget and skill, V mount would be the way to go anyway.
*Many SMIC options don't require relocating the battery. They also don't require yanking PS and A/C which while reducing weight and providing some space, significantly reduce the worth of the car.
*RE: Removing emissions, know that you can't do that until moving to a standalone/PFC. It will light up the CEL on the dash and may put the car into limp. Go here for info on what you can and cannot remove: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-turbo-749702/
* LOTS of info in the 3rd Gen. FAQ stickys and in searches on battery relocation and injector sizing. I'm not versed in that, but FWIW, probably making around 285'ish whp on my car with stock injectors and pump at near stock boost levels (see signature). Injector duty is acceptable.
*While you have the UIM off, you might want to test your solenoids https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-stuff-802060/ . You might also consider PM'ing a member here named DaleClark for a set of his Viton check-valves and just swap them out for the stockers if you still have them. Quality silicone vacuum hose is also a must if you still have the stock rubber. But take care removing them.

runrex

I plan on pickup up a PFC before i even run the car again so CEL shouldnt be an issue in that case. Also i only decided to go ahead and pull the AC bc it didnt blow cold anyways and i normally only drive the car once a week but everything i removed is in tact and good to reinstall depending on my future setup/goals. The PS came out as much as i didnt want to i just did it bc the AC was coming out and it required rerouting the lines as it was and with it being a fairly light, rwd car that rarely gets driven i figured why not (just one less thing to go wrong) not to mention removing an entire belt system. Im still on stock twins and given that the rad is already bigger than stock and not having the AC condenser there to block it i figure itll be just fine on a smaller HP build (eventually get some ducting made before i go vmount). I also ordered a set of the vacuum hoses from Banzai along with the idler pulley kit. Im pretty mechanically inclined and i have my own shop so doing any of these mods is no issue so i understand the drawbacks to removing anything factory equipped, im just more so new to the way japanese cars are setup as far as tuning goes. Greatly appreciate the response and pointers.

rollcoal

iTrader: (5)

get the id 2000, you prob won't be on he twins for too long because you'll want more.. but you'll need an ecu for sure. yes you will need an aftermarket fuel rail as well. you can get away with just upgrading the secondaries and leaving the primaries

runrex

Just an update, and thanks for all the input. Cars still on jack stands awaiting more parts (aren't they all).

After pulling the UIM off i realized just how brittle and old the vacuum lines were, broke one of the solenoid nipples off, sure enough its the pre wastage control? the one with two noids on it. So after placing a big order for an entire fuel system upgrade from FFE i decided just to go single turbo to avoid the whole vacuum nightmare and avoid having to buy new solenoids etc etc. I know i should take smaller steps but i don't like to waste money by doing things more than once so i said ill just do it all now and be happy with the simplification. Plus i never drive it.

Fluidyne Rad
Greddy style FMIC
FFE ultimate fuel kit with 034 steal pump
pineapple idler pulley (deleted ac/PS/airpump)
RX7 store resonated mid pipe/ Greddy catback
PFC/commander and a datalogit
MTX-L wideband
Greddy Charge pipe
Pulled the Nardi deep dish from my 240
EBC brake pads with stainless braided lines
Got my front bumper resprayed with a new R1 lip
Rear bumper was touched up and got a nice Street diffuser and i LOVE IT

Next on the parts list
-Single turbo kit (most likely a 35r)
-Filters/plugs/wires etc.
-A few interior touches and hope she roars!

Slowtary

Can I ask why you decided to run a Power FC and not something a little newer like a Haltech? The Power FC seems primitive in comparison, A Microtech Haltech or HKS SA seems like a much better option considering the parts you've bought and the numbers you're looking for, but to each their own.

runrex

I was going to go with Adaptronics, however ive been swayed by a few people to stick with a PFC since its so broadly accepted and easy to find maps for, and a buddy of mine found a killer deal so all said and done its about half the cost of the Adaptronics. Its only temporary though, as I will be switching over mid summer or late fall. Really just need the car to be running ASAP.

dagoof

Did something change in the last few years?

I haven't payed attention much lately, but I thought that the PFC was the accepted standard for FD's

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

An Adaptronic is above and beyond a PFC. The PFC has been the standard because of its ease of use and was a well rounded unit when it was new. However, with the PnP units from Adaptronic, the standard is changing. The PFC is limited in capability, the Adaptronic is very sophisticated and keeps getting better with each software update; something the PFC is not able to do.