I am experiencing some electrical problem. There's no viable power to the ignition switch, the headlamp flipper, lights, hazards, clock... the cabin of the car.

First about the car:

This is a 1985 GS. This was a working car. While there are some modifications to this 12a setup which vary from stock, the stock wiring harness is being used. The prior owner had a two-belt underdrive on the alternator, which may have killed the alternator. I have replaced the alternator and now employ a stock drive belt. The car has started with the new alt and I was able to gauge a charge with a mmeter.

Then the mystery began. The ignition switch was trippin, so i got a new one which I had been meaning to install. The day following the successful startup above, turning the key in the prior switch produced no result. This is the first mystery failure. It would normally require wiggling to get the fuel pump and starter power to coincide. Without testing, I just replaced the lame switch. With the new switch on, I get no action from the car in any key position either.

I have done some testing:

1. Battery is good (newer) and @12.57vdc (sustains under headlamp load)
2. Battery tests the same against the (-) pole and the engine block.
3. Starter gets 12.57vdc too (from a direct cable).
4. For kicks I jumped the starter and it spun nicely.
5. The fuses under the driver's dash check out (I checked the engine fuse)

now the confusing bit is that some conditions in the car have changed arbitrarily:

6. The lamp door toggle opened and shut the doors fine, then I turned on the headlights to test the batt strength under load. I was able to turn the lamps off, but they stopped working thereafter, and without dropping the lights.

7. I noticed that the clock was functional during the above, but is no longer.

8. the igswitch is not getting power that I presumed that it should: I thought the hotwire was the white one with the red stripe. It is getting less than 1.5vdc. No others seem to be hot at all.

Now I have confirmed that the battery and the starter are still powered, but I have not been able to find a general wiring diagram decoding the igswitch or the harness leading to the cabin, so I'm confused about what is wrong or how it worked before it stopped.

Any help appreciated.

 

I can report that this was resolved. Sunday tinkering.

For the benefit of those with similar issues:

I had to run a line directly from batt (+) to the 'B' on the alt. I got power. I then had to run a new line from power to the 'R' on the alt. This after testing 'L' and getting no/low field current, then getting field when I jumped 'B' and 'R'. I ghettoed a wire to my fuse box so the key would affect the jumper when on. Works. Looks shameful.

 

before you decided to run bypass wires, did you ever check or replace your fusible links? there should be 3 of them and they may have all decided to start taking a crap at the same time (sometimes it happens like that).

this is just me and my opinion, but I will give my 2 cents. I don't particularly like jumping or bypassing circuits, it can end really horribly if there is ever an issue.

 

No, I didn't check these links. I see that there's something of that kind for the headlamps. It was close to the battery, but I have to threadsearch or google these gizmos to find these other two.

I'd agree that the patchups on electrical issues could leave me stranded or put the whole whip up in flames, so I am eager to figure out a more elegant solution. The harness is still in place but has been hacked pretty good.

 

all three of them are on the driver's side strut tower. they all plug into the same junction.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...ersion-403676/

now you don't have to swap out the whole thing. if you check post 42, you'll see that you can just plug the Gen II-type fuses directly into the OEM fusible link junction. you'll have to look up and find which ratings you need (I think they are 30, 30 and 80 - but i'm not positive).

check it out and see if you solve your issues.