datz

several sensors dont work right with readings through check connectors(mainly narrow range tps, ect.) but do work right when i test them alone with a multimeter.
so i am guessing the problem is in wire to or from the ECU or the ECU itself.
so i was wondering if i cant fix the ECU(bad connection, bad resistor, ect.)and have to buy a new one, would it be worth wile to get a aftermarket ECU?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Your post is incredibly vague. What isn't working? What is the problem?

Whether or not it is a good idea to go standalone depends on the car and your skills. Are you comfortable wiring it up and then tuning it (or paying someone else to do so)? What are your plans for the car? To keep it stock or mod it? Big turbo?

datz

sorry, i want it to be streetlegal

i have a 1990 GXL with 85xxx miles, when i start it in the morning(cold start) it idles at 3k for about 10 secs, then slowly drops down to 2300 rpm, then very slowly drops to 1600 rpm(this very slow drop takes about2-3 mins, then i let the car idle for almost 20 mins, it warms to opp temp in probly 10 min after starting but wont go below 1600 rpm.
right now i have the dashpot out for easier acces to the fast idle cam, ect. when i look with a loittle mirror the fast idle roller HAS seperated from the cam, so i try to push the roller down, it goes nowhere.
when i put load on the engine, headlights, ac, ect. the rpms increase slightly like they should.
when i drive the car, somtimes at red lights the idle will drop to 600 rpm then evenly and uniformly bounces from 600 to 900 rpm. but most of the time the rpms stay near 1600.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere.

Your TPS is out of adjustment, and it sounds like your BAC may be sticking or clogged.

datz

ya i figured those 3.
i found the vacum leak where the intake attaches to the TB, im gonna change all 3 gaskets on the intake and if i can get em, the ACV and BAC gasket(ive heard these are not easy to get) and vacum lines to be on the safe side.