Im curious whats needed to put a 20 or 26b in a 1990vert, i know motor and harness but what else, thanks

 

let's start with motor mounts and an aftermarket Ecu,Fuel system,Intercooler system..

 

And more than one year's salary of many now adays!!

 

How about drivetrain?

 

if you're referring to the transmission and rear end, etc., then if you look around you'll see everything from stock T2 fare to modified T2/FD fare, to high-end Ford fare, to all-out race setups (Jerico, etc.). it depends on power, usage and budget.

 

I was thinking na 20b & t2 drivetrain?

 

I hope you have alot of money, anything involving a 20b is going to be very expensive.

 

I was affraid of that, im just shooting ideas, im about to order my jdm 13b turbo but i here everyone say not to order just buy a used turbo2 and rebuild...

 

... and they would be right 9 times out of 10, but the wisdom of that advice only goes as far as how badly YOU want the drop-top. you'll have to make a decision.

 

Where would be a trusted place to get one

 

From a forum member. Preferably someone local to you. Check your 'Regional F/S Section' Forum -> SE For Sale/ Wanted/ Classifieds

 

As previously stated, the engine & ECU will have the largest pricetags, in the 4-digit range for both, but you will encounter quite a few 3-digit necessities depending on how you go about the build.

My build thread should give you some insight into the "dirt" of a 20B Conversion and how to solve various issues. I can guarantee that you won't be able to do it for cheaper than I have. Link here: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...tormas-888195/

There are a few 20B engines currently for sale in the Classifieds section. Be sure to doublecheck the seller's feedback first. If you need to have an engine rebuilt, there are a few shops I'd personally recommend. Banzai Racing and Defined Autoworks immediately come to mind.

Engine Mounts: Banzai Racing offers them for $210. There are other options, but this is the simplest, cheapest and most expedient solution.

ECU choices: Not too many options here. The original NF01 Cosmo ECU theoretically could be made to work but would require considerable electronics knowledge to defeat its Limp Mode due to lack of its Automatic Transmission. You would be much better off with a Standalone EMS such as the Haltech Platinum Sport 2000. I believe the Megasquirt MS3-Pro has enough inputs/outputs as well. Aaron Cake had produced a video detailing the MS3-Pro's features, along with proper wiring technique here:
Drivetrain: A T2 drivetrain is pretty much the norm for 20B FCs. It could be done with a N/A one, but you probably hate having a clutch that's stiffer than necessary and barely adequate to hold the 20B's torque. ACT offers a clutch that can hold 330ft.lbs for N/A cars, but the T2 version of the same clutch holds 400+. See. Advanced Clutch Technology // Performance Clutch Kits, Clutches, and Flywheels for more info.

The N/A differential has been proven th hold up under high power use. Aaron Cake is still running a S4 GXL diff in his 500HP Project Tina. In my build, I've stuck with this as well.

Intake, Exhaust & plumbing: Going N/A? Single turbo? Keeping the Cosmo's twins? Can't really give you a recommendation untill you figure out what direction you are heading.

 

a 20b vert would be sweet for sure!!!

 

Most shops charge about $35K for a 20B conversion, although you can get away with less than $20K if you just want a basic swap.
20B (3 Rotor)

If you mean a R26B 4-rotor engine, then you are looking at a serious amount of money. However, if you are one of those "millionaires next door", then your contact for that conversion would be Downing Atlanta.
Downing/Atlanta Inc.

If it is still for sale, there is one on our classified list that you can buy for much less than it would cost you to build:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...rtible-767071/
The RXX-7 Homepage

 

What about the structural aspect? Would a vert stand up to that much torque? A 13b turbo conversion would probably be the best/easiest route. I've seen a couple done with a TII and turned out pretty cool.

 

The car in my above link has been running for about 13 years now.

Yes, a 13BT is the best/easiest route by a longshot. However, the 20B is more unique and has a better torque curve, so it is a nice option for those who have the time and/or money for it.

 

I agree a 20B in anything is a unique and awesome way to go, even better in a fc vert. I've even thought about it myself, it's pretty big money to do it the right way though.

The 20B forums are full of good info and ideas too.

 

26B is easy, just drop 2 13Bs into your engine bay and make "brap brap brap" noises as you run around in circles.

if you need to ask even the 20B is likely out of your reach, starting at about $15k and goes up from there. i know where you can buy a 20B FC if you got $20k burning a hole in your pocket.

 

I have a 20b already imma rebuild first so not out of reach.

 

then you're just under half way there.

 

In my case, the engine was about 1/4 the cost and maybe 1/10 of the work. I'm still trying to get my car in good working order, lol. However, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, so I re-registered the car last month with the tax man. If this dang cold weather would just go away then I could work on getting it finished up.

 

i say that because the 20Bs now cost about $6k for a long block.

 

And I say that because I have $35K in my car. Like most people, I originally planned on spending about $10K on the swap. What a joke, lol. However, it would have been cheaper and easier if I kept the crummy OEM turbos and didn't prep the rest of the car for racing. Then again, I don't see much point in a ghetto 275bhp 20B setup on an old RX-7 with worn-out suspension and a half-dead NA drivetrain.

 

well of course, but not everyone has to go all out right out of the gate. having a turbo chassis car initially is the best starting point, i never understood the point of transferring turbo parts to non turbo chassis cars. just sell the shell and buy something that can handle it, even if it has a blown or no motor. you're just doing a bunch of work to get right where you should have started from with a few extra bucks.

 

damn, you found and bought a 20B already in two days from first asking what it takes to swap in a 3 rotor? I guess you have thoroughly researched what it takes to do so. Good luck