curious 20b in fc
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03-21-13, 04:10 PM
#8
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I was affraid of that, im just shooting ideas, im about to order my jdm 13b turbo but i here everyone say not to order just buy a used turbo2 and rebuild...
03-21-13, 10:00 PM
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From a forum member. Preferably someone local to you. Check your 'Regional F/S Section' Forum -> SE For Sale/ Wanted/ Classifieds
03-21-13, 11:16 PM
#12
As previously stated, the engine & ECU will have the largest pricetags, in the 4-digit range for both, but you will encounter quite a few 3-digit necessities depending on how you go about the build.
My build thread should give you some insight into the "dirt" of a 20B Conversion and how to solve various issues. I can guarantee that you won't be able to do it for cheaper than I have. Link here: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...tormas-888195/
There are a few 20B engines currently for sale in the Classifieds section. Be sure to doublecheck the seller's feedback first. If you need to have an engine rebuilt, there are a few shops I'd personally recommend. Banzai Racing and Defined Autoworks immediately come to mind.
Engine Mounts: Banzai Racing offers them for $210. There are other options, but this is the simplest, cheapest and most expedient solution.
ECU choices: Not too many options here. The original NF01 Cosmo ECU theoretically could be made to work but would require considerable electronics knowledge to defeat its Limp Mode due to lack of its Automatic Transmission. You would be much better off with a Standalone EMS such as the Haltech Platinum Sport 2000. I believe the Megasquirt MS3-Pro has enough inputs/outputs as well. Aaron Cake had produced a video detailing the MS3-Pro's features, along with proper wiring technique here:
Drivetrain: A T2 drivetrain is pretty much the norm for 20B FCs. It could be done with a N/A one, but you probably hate having a clutch that's stiffer than necessary and barely adequate to hold the 20B's torque. ACT offers a clutch that can hold 330ft.lbs for N/A cars, but the T2 version of the same clutch holds 400+. See. Advanced Clutch Technology // Performance Clutch Kits, Clutches, and Flywheels for more info.
The N/A differential has been proven th hold up under high power use. Aaron Cake is still running a S4 GXL diff in his 500HP Project Tina. In my build, I've stuck with this as well.
Intake, Exhaust & plumbing: Going N/A? Single turbo? Keeping the Cosmo's twins? Can't really give you a recommendation untill you figure out what direction you are heading.
My build thread should give you some insight into the "dirt" of a 20B Conversion and how to solve various issues. I can guarantee that you won't be able to do it for cheaper than I have. Link here: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...tormas-888195/
There are a few 20B engines currently for sale in the Classifieds section. Be sure to doublecheck the seller's feedback first. If you need to have an engine rebuilt, there are a few shops I'd personally recommend. Banzai Racing and Defined Autoworks immediately come to mind.
Engine Mounts: Banzai Racing offers them for $210. There are other options, but this is the simplest, cheapest and most expedient solution.
ECU choices: Not too many options here. The original NF01 Cosmo ECU theoretically could be made to work but would require considerable electronics knowledge to defeat its Limp Mode due to lack of its Automatic Transmission. You would be much better off with a Standalone EMS such as the Haltech Platinum Sport 2000. I believe the Megasquirt MS3-Pro has enough inputs/outputs as well. Aaron Cake had produced a video detailing the MS3-Pro's features, along with proper wiring technique here:
Drivetrain: A T2 drivetrain is pretty much the norm for 20B FCs. It could be done with a N/A one, but you probably hate having a clutch that's stiffer than necessary and barely adequate to hold the 20B's torque. ACT offers a clutch that can hold 330ft.lbs for N/A cars, but the T2 version of the same clutch holds 400+. See. Advanced Clutch Technology // Performance Clutch Kits, Clutches, and Flywheels for more info.
The N/A differential has been proven th hold up under high power use. Aaron Cake is still running a S4 GXL diff in his 500HP Project Tina. In my build, I've stuck with this as well.
Intake, Exhaust & plumbing: Going N/A? Single turbo? Keeping the Cosmo's twins? Can't really give you a recommendation untill you figure out what direction you are heading.
03-23-13, 11:45 AM
#14
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20B (3 Rotor)
If you mean a R26B 4-rotor engine, then you are looking at a serious amount of money. However, if you are one of those "millionaires next door", then your contact for that conversion would be Downing Atlanta.
Downing/Atlanta Inc.
If it is still for sale, there is one on our classified list that you can buy for much less than it would cost you to build:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...rtible-767071/
The RXX-7 Homepage
03-23-13, 01:31 PM
#16
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Yes, a 13BT is the best/easiest route by a longshot. However, the 20B is more unique and has a better torque curve, so it is a nice option for those who have the time and/or money for it.
03-23-13, 10:58 PM
#18
26B is easy, just drop 2 13Bs into your engine bay and make "brap brap brap" noises as you run around in circles.
if you need to ask even the 20B is likely out of your reach, starting at about $15k and goes up from there. i know where you can buy a 20B FC if you got $20k burning a hole in your pocket.
if you need to ask even the 20B is likely out of your reach, starting at about $15k and goes up from there. i know where you can buy a 20B FC if you got $20k burning a hole in your pocket.
03-24-13, 12:45 PM
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In my case, the engine was about 1/4 the cost and maybe 1/10 of the work. I'm still trying to get my car in good working order, lol. However, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, so I re-registered the car last month with the tax man. If this dang cold weather would just go away then I could work on getting it finished up.
03-24-13, 01:43 PM
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And I say that because I have $35K in my car. Like most people, I originally planned on spending about $10K on the swap. What a joke, lol. However, it would have been cheaper and easier if I kept the crummy OEM turbos and didn't prep the rest of the car for racing. Then again, I don't see much point in a ghetto 275bhp 20B setup on an old RX-7 with worn-out suspension and a half-dead NA drivetrain.
03-24-13, 01:46 PM
#24
well of course, but not everyone has to go all out right out of the gate. having a turbo chassis car initially is the best starting point, i never understood the point of transferring turbo parts to non turbo chassis cars. just sell the shell and buy something that can handle it, even if it has a blown or no motor. you're just doing a bunch of work to get right where you should have started from with a few extra bucks.
