my add coolant buzzer/light has been turning on at around 3K rpm and turns off around 4-4.5k rpm. it doesn't overheat. (although one time the temp needle did creep up a little but quickly went back down).

I've searched, but I've either been searching for the wrong things or i missed the topics.

but i was wondering if there was a certain problem that could cause this.

sorry for the lack of info, cant think of anything else to say.

any help is appreciated.

 

Bleed the air bubbles out of the cooling system.

 

Sounds like somebody needs to bleed their coolant. The good news is that it doesn't sound like a bad water pump.

 

whats the best way to bleed the air out?
its a 90 N/a.

 

sorry for double post, took to long to edit.

ive tried running the car while cold with the heater on full blast but my car does this thing that it probably shouldnt. which causes the coolant to surge out with every RPM drop.

video of the rpm rise and fall.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ue-mVHqVzOE

 

You need to set the short range part of the TPS which is the Green/Red wire I believe to 1 volt on the nose after the car has been thoroughly warmed up and there's a very high probability that the surging idle you have will be no more.

 

Fluctuating idle can also be caused by air bubbles in the cooling system. Search how to bleed it and quickly do it before messing w/ the TPS..

 

If the TPS is out of spec the voltmeter will quickly tell you such. If it isn't then you leave it alone.

 

all my searches bring up how to bleed a s4, which has all sorts of shenanigans meant to bleed it. the S5 is just the filler neck, and that is it.
all that ive been able to find is to fill neck till its full while car is cold. then turn it on with heater on high and fill as necessary, but i cant because once it reaches a certain temp it starts to fluctuate causing the coolant to surge out of the neck and spill everywhere.

also, it only fluctuates during warm up.

 

You can purchase a Lisle funnel which should inhibit the coolant from making too much of a mess or you could check the TPS as suggested which takes less than 30 seconds of time.

 

Open the rad cap with the car cold and then pump the lower rad hose with your hand.

 

Hey buddy. It bleeds me to read this! On th front of th radiator there is a single wire connected to a wire that acts as a ground.If th water doesn't hit it the DARN buzzer goes off! Fill it from the top w theengine running. Let it cool all the way down then open the top let it gurgle turn it on and fill again. Shut it off crack the bottom one and see if the botom is empty fill it. when you do that it will stop when the ground hits water. Fill the resi tank and the buzz will stop. I found when I hit left it stopped or high rpm's when the water pump was screaming. Then i found leaks.