NativeBeggars

iTrader: (1)

I have posted another thread on here, and here is a <a href="https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=997536">link to it</a>.

I have a new symptom now. I have noticed recently that my oil pressure never increases past around 15-20psi. I still have no air pump belt, an unbolted main cat, a cut halfway up the beginning of the y-pipe for the catback, and it still won't fire for me again, but I am out of gas in it at the moment. There is also a small metal pipe that runs sortof alongside the main cat which has a large section cut out of it. It is a metal line that is attached to rubber hoses. The relief solenoid valve, switching solenoid valve, and PRC solenoid valve plugs [the blue, grey, and orange plugs respectively] are unplugged. There are a few things I want to try if this doesn't work, but my current plan is to attempt to seal the exhaust the way it ought to be, including the mystery line, put a belt on my air pump, reinstall my intake and fan shroud and obviously put some gas in it before I try and start it. THE CAR IS THROWING CODES, BUT I DON'T HAVE ACCESS CODE READER, NOR CAN I DRIVE THE CAR TO AN AUTO PARTS STORE TO HAVE IT CHECKED. I need to get it running reliably first. I will have to go back through and make sure I didn't forget anything, but I know I also need to address my hesitation, which I'm SURE there is a solid fix for on here, and

This is basically how I got the car. The only thing I have done to it is adjusted the timing to where it will start under its own power again, but the timing isn't 100% done yet. I am new to the rotary world, but I am teachable and a fast learner, as long as I am well-guided!

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Always post vehicle information. Otherwise, people will either guess or ignore your thread. Your other thread mentions an '89, so I'm going with that...

FCs do not need code readers. http://www.johnr.com/cpucodes.html

NativeBeggars

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I'm sorry about that. Give me just a few minutes, RR88. When I tried to post this yesterday, I went back to edit the post, and instead of posting the new thread after I had to log back in [it took me a few to get everything pretty exact], it posted the older version. I'm about to EDIT THE ENTIRE POST TO THE NEW VERSION, so if you wouldn't mind giving a few more minutes of time, reread through the new post. There is much more information in it there. My car is a 1989 GXL, yes.

NativeBeggars

iTrader: (1)

Okay, since I can't edit the original post, I can repost new sections here. The car is a 1989 N/A GXL, it's bone stock except for a few new OEM parts, like NGK plugs and ignition wires, which I have checked for accuracy. I DO keep fouling plugs as I am trying to start it, but not with oil. With gas. The "Mystery Line" I referred to on the side of the exhaust with a section cut out is my split-air pipe.

I need to get it running reliably first; to where it will crank and at least run without much problem and still have normal-good oil pressure. I will have to go back through and make sure I didn't forget anything, but I know I also need to address my hesitation, which I'm SURE there is a solid fix for on here, and the other quirks of the car, but obviously, it has to run first. What should I check around for, including on the TPS/BAC/ACV, and what ought I do to check them? I have thought about my MOP, since I am getting low oil pressure, but it helps to know for sure.

In regards to the CEL, how do I check and see what it is telling me?

NativeBeggars

iTrader: (1)

Okay, new update. Drove it again today. However, my oil pressure was fine. The highest I saw it was 50-55psi, and idle was 30-35psi.

The thing is, normally, people will get hesitation around 3-4k, and I would just get it randomly throughout my rpm range. I had it hesitate so bad it died on me when I was closer to home thankfully. Got it to push start without much problem and got it home, but even in lower ranges like 2-3k, I was getting hesitation. 5-7k too. Also, I'm not sure if this matters, but when I got it home, I put some more gas in it, because it was almost empty, and when I unscrewed the gas cap, hot vapours rushed out, sounding as if I were opening a 2L of soda and continued for a second or two after I had the cap off all the way. Is this normal?

Also, running under load doesn't give good results. When I tried to go up a hill, it runs slower. Takes around at least 3000rpm to even get it going in gear. If it's lower, it will bog out until I press the clutch and give it gas. Even if I dump it at like 6500-7k in first, it is kinda slow to the power, despite giving me a nice fluid shift. Is this high range normal? I'm used to the range being like 1-6k, not 3-8k with weak power. What's a good way to fix this? Is this really high range normal? I know the car can safely rev this high, but a slow boggy start at 3k seems weird. Any advice?

beachFC

iTrader: (13)

have you checked your compression? Or at least done a poor man's test? It may not be the exact problem you're talking about, but may throw you off when looking for other problems, symptoms, etc..

Since usually you'd look for these symptoms with the confidence that your motor is actually healthy in the first place, maybe the compression is causing further complications resulting in inconsistant symptoms? get me?

And the slow boggy start.. maybe the aws fighting the low compression to get to 3k rpm? I don't ****** know

I'm just guessing about everything except the comp. Test, which is the first thing you should do when trying to diagnose any crazy *** **** like this

NativeBeggars

iTrader: (1)

Well, beachFC, I guess I was just less educated on the matter before when I posted this. I have since noticed that oil pressure increases with engine temperature as well as rpm and it works fine. My throttle response is a little slow, but my exhaust is still all effed up and it could be due to shitty backpressure. The thing is, when I would have it running, the idle was fine. The engine shook a little on startup but what engine doesn't? What leads me to believe that I have good compression is that when it is sitting at idle, its not afterburning, its not jumping or hesitating. It just cooperated with me and responded in the right ways to changes in idle speed. If I had a seal going out, my revs would bounce and it would hesitate even at idle. I figured out how to ****** my codes, and they were for, you guessed it, airflow. I have since put on all new belts and saw an improvement. Plugged in what was unplugged and it got better at idle, but would die on me, due to what I think was lack of back pressure. If you recall me saying my split air pipe was cut as well, this could also be causing this too. I'm not totally sure, but I'm not going to even try and start it until my exhaust is rebuilt. Hopefully I don't have to replace my cats as well, since I ran it and drove it a good few times without the air pump belt. Is there a way to clean the cats or will I just have to replace them? I do still want to do a compression check though, just to be sure.

NativeBeggars

iTrader: (1)

Alright. Exhaust is rebuild and has made a marked difference, however, I believe my true problem lies in my trailing ignition coils. T1 had no power and T2 had minimal power. Trailing coils and mount assembly on the way and going to see if that doesn't alleviate my issue.