Considerations When Shopping for an FD
Considerations When Shopping for an FD
Hi all! Finally have a budget saved up and I'm on the hunt to purchase an FD.
I listed some points that seem pretty standard to me, but I'm wondering if there are any other considerations that experienced owners would suggest a first time FD buyer to look out for.
I listed some points that seem pretty standard to me, but I'm wondering if there are any other considerations that experienced owners would suggest a first time FD buyer to look out for.
- The lower the mileage the better
- Garaged - protect the exterior
- Single owner - more reliable information, probably better care
- Clean title is preferred
- Request compression test / certified Mazda mechanic inspection (paid for by buyer)
- No exhaust smoke (burning oil)
- Test drive (duh)
- Run VIN through Carfax / etc.
This was written about 15 years ago, but of course it's still relevant and helped me immensely when I was checking out the FD that I ended up buying.
Buying a Used RX-7
Buying a Used RX-7
Hi all! Finally have a budget saved up and I'm on the hunt to purchase an FD.
I listed some points that seem pretty standard to me, but I'm wondering if there are any other considerations that experienced owners would suggest a first time FD buyer to look out for.
I listed some points that seem pretty standard to me, but I'm wondering if there are any other considerations that experienced owners would suggest a first time FD buyer to look out for.
- The lower the mileage the better
- Garaged - protect the exterior and interior...which is often harder to fix
- Single owner - more reliable information, probably better care. But if good records and receipts come with it this isn't as important
- Clean title is mandated
- Request compression test / rotary specialist inspection (paid for by buyer hopefully, but it could be negotiated)
- No exhaust smoke (burning oil) especially on decel. A little could be present if the owner premixed
- Test drive (duh)
- Run VIN through Carfax / etc.
You should also check the 3rd Gen FAQ sticky at the top of this page under B for buying. I think that article linked above and others are available. Close to 'stock' for the newest owner is good. But once familiar with the car, well thought out and installed modifications usually don't concern you as much.
If there is a rotary specialty shop near you, it might be worth having them do a compression test AND honestly evaluate the car on your dime. If you just take it to a dealership most techs will likely never have seen under the hood of an RX7. Good luck.
Last edited by Sgtblue; Jan 27, 2017 at 08:49 AM.
Smoke Test
We have a shop locally that does a "smoke test" using specialized equipment. It blows smoke through your air intake system and any leaks show up. It takes about 30 minutes including set-up, so about $50.
I took my car for a test after a rebuild and we found four leaks, identifying a split vacuum hose, missing Y-pipe gasket, old throttle body o-ring and throttle body axle leakage.
Has anyone mentioned running "codes". In the US, I suppose these manifest in a check engine light coming on. In JDM RHD there is no check engine light. So you need to find a JDM specific code reader. If there is a code failure in a JDM, the ECU will not allow the engine to run properly, in many cases.
Given the age of the cars, and even for a low mileage specimen, you will likely have to plan for replacing all the solenoids, vacuum lines, hoses, sensors.....basically anything made of rubber or plastic that degrades over time. The bakelite "ast" should be replaced immediately with a properly designed aftermarket metal variant.
I took my car for a test after a rebuild and we found four leaks, identifying a split vacuum hose, missing Y-pipe gasket, old throttle body o-ring and throttle body axle leakage.
Has anyone mentioned running "codes". In the US, I suppose these manifest in a check engine light coming on. In JDM RHD there is no check engine light. So you need to find a JDM specific code reader. If there is a code failure in a JDM, the ECU will not allow the engine to run properly, in many cases.
Given the age of the cars, and even for a low mileage specimen, you will likely have to plan for replacing all the solenoids, vacuum lines, hoses, sensors.....basically anything made of rubber or plastic that degrades over time. The bakelite "ast" should be replaced immediately with a properly designed aftermarket metal variant.
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
I did a smoke test..
I like Maui Wowie..Sticky Ickky Ickky is second..lol!..('sup Snoop Dogg?).
If you can find another Dedicated owner that can go with you if you spy a potential car then your adding some protection to your purchase.
Buy the Poor guy Lunch!..he needs it..he OWNS a Rotary!..lol!
I like Maui Wowie..Sticky Ickky Ickky is second..lol!..('sup Snoop Dogg?).
If you can find another Dedicated owner that can go with you if you spy a potential car then your adding some protection to your purchase.
Buy the Poor guy Lunch!..he needs it..he OWNS a Rotary!..lol!
Know that a lot of the components are old and probably need to be changed out. This means a lot of money after the purchase of the car.
it also depends on what you want to do with the car. if you are going to mod the heck out of it, sometimes buying an already modded car is cheaper. you can sell all the parts off of it and mod it the way you want.
I like buying cars that are discounted have some mods on it and might not be running properly (boost issues or something) but the engine is fine. I just did that with an rx8 which turned out well.
it also depends on what you want to do with the car. if you are going to mod the heck out of it, sometimes buying an already modded car is cheaper. you can sell all the parts off of it and mod it the way you want.
I like buying cars that are discounted have some mods on it and might not be running properly (boost issues or something) but the engine is fine. I just did that with an rx8 which turned out well.
Check the fenders to see if they have been rolled. Not a big deal if they have been, but it means that it's probably been modified at some point even if it looks stock now. If they are rolled, check the paint isn't cracking.
Inspect the rear hatch for holes to see if the car has been fitted with an aftermarket spoiler at some stage.
Look at the rear bumper right above the exhaust to see if it's been molested.
The front subframe and side sills may be dented or rusty if it's been jacked up incorrectly.
Large or inconsistent gaps between the front spoiler and the bonnet or the front fenders and headlights could indicate that it's been crashed at some stage, although sagging front bumpers is pretty common.
The plastic intake ducts are expensive if they're cracked. Same goes for the front fender liners.
Check for overspray on the door seals, plastic trim and quarter panel fasteners in case it's been resprayed at some stage.
Listen closely for knocking coming from the rear end during the test drive.
Keep an open mind. My car had many of the issues above... but it was CHEAP and otherwise in good condition, so I bought it. Don't buy the first car you see! Go and look at one other car at the very least before giving someone your money.
Inspect the rear hatch for holes to see if the car has been fitted with an aftermarket spoiler at some stage.
Look at the rear bumper right above the exhaust to see if it's been molested.
The front subframe and side sills may be dented or rusty if it's been jacked up incorrectly.
Large or inconsistent gaps between the front spoiler and the bonnet or the front fenders and headlights could indicate that it's been crashed at some stage, although sagging front bumpers is pretty common.
The plastic intake ducts are expensive if they're cracked. Same goes for the front fender liners.
Check for overspray on the door seals, plastic trim and quarter panel fasteners in case it's been resprayed at some stage.
Listen closely for knocking coming from the rear end during the test drive.
Keep an open mind. My car had many of the issues above... but it was CHEAP and otherwise in good condition, so I bought it. Don't buy the first car you see! Go and look at one other car at the very least before giving someone your money.
Last edited by mrselfdestruct1994; Feb 10, 2017 at 05:10 PM.
Paint Thickness
When I had my dings removed, the tech went over the car with a paint thickness testing device. He determined it was all original paint. Of course certain panels can be swapped out (fenders, etc.) , but it was one indicator that the car had not likely been in a material accident.
Know that a lot of the components are old and probably need to be changed out. This means a lot of money after the purchase of the car.
it also depends on what you want to do with the car. if you are going to mod the heck out of it, sometimes buying an already modded car is cheaper. you can sell all the parts off of it and mod it the way you want.
it also depends on what you want to do with the car. if you are going to mod the heck out of it, sometimes buying an already modded car is cheaper. you can sell all the parts off of it and mod it the way you want.
I plan to have a PPI done for an potential purchases.
Check the fenders to see if they have been rolled. Not a big deal if they have been, but it means that it's probably been modified at some point even if it looks stock now. If they are rolled, check the paint isn't cracking.
Inspect the rear hatch for holes to see if the car has been fitted with an aftermarket spoiler at some stage.
Look at the rear bumper right above the exhaust to see if it's been molested.
The front subframe and side sills may be dented or rusty if it's been jacked up incorrectly.
Large or inconsistent gaps between the front spoiler and the bonnet or the front fenders and headlights could indicate that it's been crashed at some stage, although sagging front bumpers is pretty common.
The plastic intake ducts are expensive if they're cracked. Same goes for the front fender liners.
Check for overspray on the door seals, plastic trim and quarter panel fasteners in case it's been resprayed at some stage.
Listen closely for knocking coming from the rear end during the test drive.
Keep an open mind. My car had many of the issues above... but it was CHEAP and otherwise in good condition, so I bought it. Don't buy the first car you see! Go and look at one other car at the very least before giving someone your money.
Inspect the rear hatch for holes to see if the car has been fitted with an aftermarket spoiler at some stage.
Look at the rear bumper right above the exhaust to see if it's been molested.
The front subframe and side sills may be dented or rusty if it's been jacked up incorrectly.
Large or inconsistent gaps between the front spoiler and the bonnet or the front fenders and headlights could indicate that it's been crashed at some stage, although sagging front bumpers is pretty common.
The plastic intake ducts are expensive if they're cracked. Same goes for the front fender liners.
Check for overspray on the door seals, plastic trim and quarter panel fasteners in case it's been resprayed at some stage.
Listen closely for knocking coming from the rear end during the test drive.
Keep an open mind. My car had many of the issues above... but it was CHEAP and otherwise in good condition, so I bought it. Don't buy the first car you see! Go and look at one other car at the very least before giving someone your money.
Just wanted to share some insight that I have gathered from some attempted recent purchases.
*) If the seller claims that Rob from Pineapple Racing rebuilt the engine, then you should do one of two things:
1. Ask the seller to see if Rob's information is stamped on the rotor housing near the spark plug. How do I know this? See #2.
2. Call Rob directly and ask him if he's worked on the car or knows anything about it. I did just this (he is super knowledgeable and friendly BTW), and Rob told me many resellers were using his name in the listing but were frauding. Because of this he stamps his name, the date, and the owners name on the rotor housing for identification if he's done an engine rebuild.
*) Assume the worst. Even if someone tells you the car is in great condition or there's nothing really wrong with it, verify this via PPI or test drive if possible. After a test drive on a vehicle that was being sold by Exclusive Exotics (don't deal with these unscrupulous people btw), the vehicle that they claimed to be in great shape had many issues which they didn't disclose (leaking oil, blown rear shocks, 2nd gear syncros badly worn, dented and scratched passenger rocker panel, and torn up driver's seat). Even though I asked up front at the very first contact for a list of known issues, none of the above listed were disclosed to me. In fact, their pictures were taken using angles that would purposefully mask or hide any visual damages.
*) Don't pay any deposits until the car completely checks out and you are sure the purchase will be what it claims to be!!!
Is it always this bad when trying to find a decent FD, or is this just a wave of scum and RX7 hype all of a sudden?
Still hunting guys...
