When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey everyone im new here and new to aorking on rotories all together the choke in my 82 rx7 is currently broken and i have a new one to replace it with have no idea how to get started with taking the old one out and cannot find a video or diagram anywhere online so if anyone can help out it would be greatly appreciated
Before digging in I need to ask how you tested and know the choke itself was bad? The most common cause of choke not working is the temp sensor on the back of the water pump housing.
Before digging in I need to ask how you tested and know the choke itself was bad? The most common cause of choke not working is the temp sensor on the back of the water pump housing.
I propped the engine hood open and had a friend watch when i pull the choke the line doesnt actually move at all my friends dad said its from a broken cable
Thx - You'll need to remove the chock **** first. It's has a set screw. Don't remember if it's hex or a slot. Then remove the retaining wring that holds it to the dash front. Don't remember if there is a bracket on the backside of the dash. The unit will push through the backside. Then remove the cable from the carb and pull it into the cabin. You can replace just the cable once it's out of the car. The temp sensor on the back of the water pump housing is what energizes the electromagnet in the unit to keep the **** out until warm.
Thx - You'll need to remove the chock **** first. It's has a set screw. Don't remember if it's hex or a slot. Then remove the retaining wring that holds it to the dash front. Don't remember if there is a bracket on the backside of the dash. The unit will push through the backside. Then remove the cable from the carb and pull it into the cabin. You can replace just the cable once it's out of the car. The temp sensor on the back of the water pump housing is what energizes the electromagnet in the unit to keep the **** out until warm.
Got the **** off looking under the dash for a wiring harness or a bracket of some sort (having a bit of dificulty with that bit) and its a manual choke so i dont think i have to worry about an electromagnet (i could be wrong tho)
FBL,
This is what you're looking for. It's the same part KC posted the diagram of above.
Once the **** is off the threaded ring is the only thing mounting it to the dash...
For the factory carb's choke setup you need this electromagnet choke (the magnet is in the black box). A generic choke cable from the part store won't work, unless you want to hold it out by hand for the whole 10-20 minutes to warm up. The factory setup uses the magnet to keep the **** out until the engine is warm, and then lets it in (choke opens) half way until fully warmed up. A Holley or Edelbrock has a much simpler choke linkage that you can control with a basic cable, but not the RX7's Nikki carb. It's a complicated little devil.
These two choke cables are NOT interchangeable.
Last edited by Maxwedge; Oct 17, 2019 at 10:00 PM.
