skye's7

So I was looking through the threads that were already up about this and wasn't quiet sure of how the order goes. I'm fairly new to actually getting things fix on my car since I never had time to do so before. Anyways, question is, what is the correct way of checking for VAC leaks and checking the CAS? Do you look for vac leaks before messing with the tps and cas? Abd if so how us the cas adjusted? Do I simply losen the screw holding it in place and turn it by hand till the marking line up, or do I have to actually use a timing light?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

What problem are you trying to solve?

Vacuum leaks are common, but CAS failures are not and the CAS doesn't just jump time unless it has been messed with.

skye's7

I see. I'm having weird idling issues. Like it runs and all but the idle will sit at 1000-1500 once in a while after driving and when warm. It also drops alot sometimes almost stalling when I apply the brakes when the car is at idle and doing the funky 1000-1500 thing. The previous owner said that the distributor, or I came to find out is the cas, was replaced and needs to be tuned in. So I guess I'm trying to figure out how to tune it. I'm trying to get it to pass emissions since it failed

skye's7

Just two minutes ago, I started the car up. It didn't do the 3000 rpm warm up jump. Instead it idled at a low 800. Then went to 1000. I reved it and it then sat at 1500. Went for a drive it around the block when it was warm enough. Temp read half way, and the car idled at 2000. Turning on the headlights cause rpm to jump too. I know that my other one didn't sit this high ever. It sat at about 800 or so. And ran flawlessly. Throttle was responsive unlike this one.