Mr. Brown

Great project. Glad to see you're persisting in it. Do you still have the gf? I'm on the edge of my seat waiting to hear that you've gotten it running.

Sent from my C771 using RX7Club

audiman

iTrader: (1)

If by gf you mean girlfriend. then no we broke up. we live in Virginia and im a Virginia Tech fan and she goes to the University of Virginia and if you know anything about the 2 schools you'll know they're huge rivals. it just didn't work out Haha.

But i still can't figure out the electrical problem. its ready to start! just need to getvthe motor to turn over

Mr. Brown

Yes, gf = girlfriend. I only used the abbreviation because it was in the thread earlier. I'm well aware of the VPI vs UVA rivalry. The UVA serpentine brick wall stands out as one such engineering accomplishment which is scoffed at by VT guys. I'm about 40 minutes south of VT towards Floyd, right on the BRP.

I found your thread looking to learn more myself, so sorry I'm not of any help. Have you found the OGTA (Old Guys With 12as) thread and asked your questions over there? Ray and some of the guys are very knowledgeable and seem very keen on helping get another 12a on the road.

audiman

iTrader: (1)

Just makin sure gf wasn't another abbreviation for something on a rx7 i didn't know of Haha. but that's awesome. i live in pulaski county. my grandparents actually have a cabin in Floyd. and i have ridden Tuggles Gap on my CBR 600. nice to see a local(ish) guy.

but Nah i havent seen that thread yet. i found a Haynes repair manual so im gonna try some of the trouble shooting tips.

And i just remembered that the headlight/turnsignal switch cluster is actually off of the steering column. i wonder if i install it and try again if it'll complete a connection that I've been missing and fix my problem

Mr. Brown

I'm only about twenty minutes from Tuggles Gap. There are some great roads dropping off the mountain over there. How far are you from Radford? I get up there quite often for work. When I don't have to drive a truck I take the seven.

Mr. Brown sent this from his C771 using RX7Club app.

audiman

iTrader: (1)

Important about 20 minutes from radford important actually at Motor Mile Drastic alot. i race my bike up there

audiman

iTrader: (1)

Im*

Kentetsu

The only ground points you need concern yourself with right now would be the battery cable itself. It mounts at the battery (obviously), then bolts to the strut tower, then continues on down to the engine block (starter bolt). 3 points of contact to check/clean/tighten.

The + cable only has two points (battery and starter).

If the battery is fully charged, and all contacts are clean, and you still can't get the starter to engage then:

1. Battery cables are corroded internally, preventing sufficient juice from getting to starter.
2. Gear on starter is stripped.
3. Ring gear on flywheel is stripped (rotate motor to new position, try again).
4. Faulty starter.

audiman

iTrader: (1)

I replaced the negative battery cable going to the strut tower. and the connection on the starter is clean. i tried bypassing the ignition switch yesterday and it didn't work either. the only thing that happens is the ignition relay clicks but nothing more. the wire going to the relay has power on 2 of the prongs. i checked with a test light, but one of the prongs barely made the test light come on. i need to buy a multimeter to test with. i will replace the positive terminal on the cable to see if that helps. and probably buy a new relay if that doesn't work.

RGHTBrainDesign

I just acquired a 1983 GSL over the summer which had been sitting since 1998.

The problem you're describing is probably having to do with the 3 fusable links found just rearward of the battery. I had one of the connectors on the opposite side completely ripped off. It just took a piece of wire, a solder gun, and some electrical connectors and she was good to go.

If you are having problems with compression (psh psh psh vs brap brap brap) try pouring SAE 30wt oil instead of the already suggested Seafoam. This uses the other method of restoring = sealing the chamber. My buddy who used to race rotaries back in the hay-day told me this trick. Worked beautifully.

After changing the oil and trickle charging the battery, it fired right up.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I tried explaining the battery ground on the strut tower but since its in a weird area if you have power steering or A/C it might be hard to find. That one little ground is crucial to having full batter voltage. It made a big difference on my FC after cleaning it so I would only assume it would help him out too. If hes hearing a clicking coming from the starter its the solenoid trying to turn the starter over but not having enough power to do so. He said he took the starter out to test it and it works but doesnt work in the car so his problem lies with getting enough power to the starter to turn it over. Or like you said Kentetsu, ring gear on flywheel is stripped. Try shining some light into the hole where the starter goes and see how the flywheel teeth are looking.

audiman

iTrader: (1)

The only way we got the starter to turn was by hot wiring it by itself with the key on. and its not the starter that's clicking. its the ignition relay.

audiman

iTrader: (1)

Anyone know what the current and voltage going to the ignition relay should be? I've tested the wires with a testlight but one wire barely makes the light come on while the other makes it shine bright. i need to buy a multimeter to test with a

audiman

iTrader: (1)

THE CAR RUNS!!! i drove it around the neighborhood today under its own power. had to roll start it due to the fact i still can't figure out the electrical part of why it won't turn over when i turn the key. BUT I DROVE IT FOR THE FIRST TIME! it idles just fine, runs a little rough since its been sitting for almost 10 years. so given the circumstances its runs great

Mr. Brown

Nice, let me know when we're going to meet up and cruise the gaps.

Mr. Brown sent this from his C771 using RX7Club app.

audiman

iTrader: (1)

It won't be road worthy until the spring at the earliest. Im tempted to pull the motor and trans and do a rebuild on the motor and have all the rust spots fixed and the car painted. i know a guy in blacksburg that has had several rx7s and has some spare parts such as full coilovers rear.disc brake set up and other odds and ends. so might do some of that stuff.

Mr. Brown, you wouldn't happen to know if any machine shops relatively close that do rotary work? Wouldn't mind a bridge port with a free flowing exhaust...love the sound of a ported rotary!

Mr. Brown

I do not. I'd love to port mine. Sorry for the slow reply.

Here's a picture of a pumpkin I carved for the 2012 Blue Ridge Rotary Rally.



You should find the B3R thread and check out the pictures. Maybe next year we can lead a Virginia caravan down to meet everyone in Asheville!

audiman

iTrader: (1)

I might try porting it myself. have to be super careful to not throw timing off. ill try and post a pic of what i want mine to look like. its getting really cold and i don't have a garage so its hard to work on it. and i go to school and work so i have very little time to do much. but a bridgeport and free flowing exhaust would sound heavenly i think

audiman

iTrader: (1)

Id like mine to look like this except white with black wheels and fender flares

audiman

iTrader: (1)

Btw the pumpkin looks effin awesome!!!

johntnguyen

Complete tune up that includes oil change, plug change, belts, hoses, coolant, fuel pump, tires, fresh fuel, probably brake disc resurfacing, vacuuming, shampoo and wash her, compression test...

Sorry, trying to get my post up!

johntnguyen

This car looks nice BTW!

Sm1nts2escape

iTrader: (4)

Change the plugs! I'm sure that will probably help smooth it out a ton.

ngd298

Nice car. I have an 1987 RX7 Sport that sat for 10-12 years, I had a lot of fun fixing it up and getting it back on the road. I'm in Radford almost every week, I live about 2 hours away, so if you need any help just let me know. There is a shop called "Rotary Resurrection" in Morristown, TN (90 minutes past Bristol on I-81) that does work on rotaries. I don't know much about them but I'm considering taking my car down there to get all the emissions junk taken off.

audiman

iTrader: (1)

Its got brand new plugs in it. carb. probably needs to be rebuilt or cleaned thoroughly. and awesome glad there's some local-ish guys on here. im strapped for cash so its hard to do much going to school and working part time. i need to get the car repainted and get all the rust spots fixed. the underside of the car has some rust to it. i think most spots can have sheet metal welded back into place but im not sure. I need more money to put into it!