satch

iTrader: (1)

The sensor would be used constantly by the ECU if it were hooked up. When it is disconnected from the ECU the ECU defaults to a predetermined setting which is a hot engine so there really isn't any switching back and forth between sensors. And just for the heck of it try measuring resistance again, but use the inside of the sensor plug if you used the rear of the plug in the first set of measurements, and place both meter leads together to zero out the meter before taking the ohm reading.

Anakhoresis

iTrader: (1)

I did both of those methods just in case but got the same thing.

So I tested the thermosensor today and... Well, it was certainly odd. I didn't get the numbers specified in the FSM, but even odder, I didn't really get any numbers at all. Occasionally it would blip to some random number but other than that I guess it was indicating there was no continuity whatsoever within the sensor?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Sometimes if the meter leads are not getting really good contact it could possibly not give you a proper reading. The blipping could be caused by poor contact w/the meter leads but it doesn't necessarily mean that this is so in this instance. One thing you need to do is make sure your meter is working properly. You could take an ohm reading of one of your secondary injectors. The ohm reading should be a couple of ohms or so. If the meter checks out and you believe you conducted the test procedure properly then it would appear the sensor is kaput.

Anakhoresis

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I did a few other tests with resistance with the meter and did the test twice. I tried filing into the tab just a little bit to get a definitely clean contact and same result every time. I'll order a new sensor (This would be correct, right?), and see how that goes.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You'll find out, but I would still verify the meter's ohm reading ability as suggested. All you have to do is pull the injector plug off and the injector has two terminals to place the meter leads on. Again, it should read two to three ohms or so.

And that is correct part you provided.

Anakhoresis

iTrader: (1)

Yep, reads 2.8. Also, do you know if NAPA or some other parts store would carry those silly metal clips for the injector plugs? That's pretty much exactly why I preferred not to test the injector itself (I tested a few resistors and they all were fine), because all those clips are either springy or brittle.

As well, I assume that these are the same? Atkins Rotary has some odd shipping and handling costs. Would any of those brands be more or less preferable?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Not sure about parts supplied from the auto stores. I know Mazdatrix as well as your local Mazda dealer would be able to get it for you. And the injectors clips are available from sources unkown. Do an "advanced" search for the 2nd Gen specific forum for sourcing or buying injector clips and you should pull up some threads listing where to purchase them from. I've seen thee threads so I know they are there.

And the injector clips for the low impedance 1986 injectors are a different shape than the later high ohm ones.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

www.injector-rehab.com can help you get the proper clips.
email him from the website.
this looks right: http://injector-rehab.com/shop/Bosch-EV1-Universal.html

Anakhoresis

iTrader: (1)

I actually just meant only the tiny little metal clips that go around the plug. As I said, I have terrible luck with those, either they're brittle and snap or they're ultra springy and go winging off into the distance when you apply a little pressure.

Unfortunately I have no Mazda dealer very close and for some reason Mazdatrix's website wasn't working, and NAPA actually had one in stock so I went with that. I'm keeping the paperwork just to make sure though, and at some point I may just go to an OEM one for peace of mind.

As for how it works, it appears to have. I screwed in the sensor, plugged in it, and the car started right up. I backprobed 2I to watch the numbers as it warmed up, and I noticed that it was much, much smoother on the countdown than the old one, and of course it never went to 4.95V. I let it idle for about 20 minutes, and took it for a little test drive and it appears to be working properly. It's done that before though so I'll definitely be wary and continue to monitor it.

Another thing I noticed is that when I rev the engine, when it falls back to idle speed it dips rather low for a bit and then raises back up to idle speed. Is this something I should be worried about?

satch

iTrader: (1)

It's rather normal for the tach needle to drop off quickly before rebounding. As long as the car doesn't die you're okay. Some people might adjust their Dashpot to prevent the secondary plates from closing too much to maybe change things for the better.

Anakhoresis

iTrader: (1)

Alright then. It's getting insured tomorrow and I'll drive it around for a week and report back on how it goes. Then to fixing all the other small issues!