Just got an FC with a Centerforce bronze clutch. Trying to do some research about them, but can't seem to find much out there other than a few quick statements like "bronze is one of the most agressive clutch materials".

I seem to be having issues getting the car to move from a dead stop smoothly and from what I can guess, that's probably due to the clutch not offering much slip. Seems like when it catches, it catches hard and I gotta throw a whole lot of gas at it, and I'm wondering if this is just my own bad driving, or whether that's pretty typical of bronze. I'm pretty sure it's a mix of both. Any articles or something just about pros and cons to the bronze clutches would be appreciated if they help me understand my car a bit more. Some of it I can figure out just from general understanding of what a clutch is, but I prefer to hear my thoughts confirmed by people smarter than myself.

 

Sounds like an unsprung puck style clutch.

Unless the car is modded to need that style clutch, I'd recommend putting something in that is at least designed for street use. The puck clutches require a lot of effort to get the pedal just right and a bit of revving to get going. Also they tear up the flywheel. Generally these are track only clutches.

 

I bought the car (an 89 NA GXL) with the intentions of dropping in a turbo, using it mostly as an autocross car, but overall just a fun car with some decent power behind it. It will also double as a date car/summer driver, so putting in a more traditional clutch might be a good idea. Though I like having one suited for racing and more resistant to slipping if I greatly increase the motor HP. I just don't want to be chirping my tires or stalling at every stop sign (and don't even get me started on how I've been doing with hill starts).

 

It's going to depend on what power level you intend to aim for with a turbo build, but there are heavy duty pressure plate / organic disk clutch combos rated for 3-400 ft. lbs of torque. I'll never understand why people stick puck clutches in NAs making 150 ft. lbs at the flywheel.

Some examples: http://www2.advancedclutch.com/11923...1.3L_T_FI.html.

 

^^ true that, no point in an NA. I've got a 4 puck unsprung clutch, and though it takes a little while to learn the super delicate control needed by your left foot, I find it perfectly usable on the street.

 

Tell me about it. Honestly, hadn't ever driven a 5 speed regularly so buying this car was supposed to be my "learn to drive stick well" car. When I was told "racing clutch" I figure "that sounds awesome. I'm totally gonna race with it". Only after learning to drive it for a bit and plenty of Google research do I realize just how much clutch selection matters. And I agree, completely unnecessary on my car as it sits. (I could write a few pages about the things that should be changed about the car from the way I bought it. At least she's pretty)

 

Still if I hope you're not considering switching your clutch just because it's difficult to use. Don't get me wrong, just because it is unnecessary doesn't mean it's bad.

You want a clutch like that if you have a high torque application and you're worried about the clutch slipping. However, off-idle your car will have the same torque as a turbo, so it would be no less difficult to use on some high-power turbo car.

Not to mention that removing it would be a pain in the ***. If I was you I'd just learn to control the clutch more accurately (parking lot practice if necessary), and drive the car the way it is.

 

Yea, I don't think I'd actually undertake completely replacing the clutch. Just frustrated slightly after hitting stop and go traffic and still not able to get her going smooth. Also, from the way others were talking, it sounded like there was very little room for improvement with this sort of clutch, but I guess the truth is a little more in between. Well, guess I just need to practice, practice, practice.

 

I'd personally swap it. There is nothing more annoying then an on/off clutch in traffic, especially one that is unsprung. There's also no reason to beat yourself up driving the car, especially a sub 160HP NA. An OEM style clutch is $175 at the parts store and in an afternoon it can be swapped with a little help from friends and some beer breaks.

Hell, my 500 RWHP has a Kevlar clutch that drives like stock, though with a bit quicker engagement and more positive grip.