evoentertainment

I have a 87' TII with a hybrid turbo that's good for 15psi or so. I'm running it with 550/720 injectors and a stock pump. I recently purchased a rtek 1.7 and a boost controller. My question is would it be safe to up the boost to 10/12psi (boost contrller has 2 settings.)?

Or would I need to upgrade my injectors and pump.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

A hybrid turbo can be many different sizes. You really need more information. The smallest common hybrid will require more fuel than a 550/720cc injector combo can support, and your timing will not be favorable at high RPMs on just an Rtek 1.7. Besides that, the stock TII pump sucks and will not flow well at all above stock fuel pressures. You're not at all set up to be running 10-12 psi no matter what kind of hybrid it is. I wouldn't run more than about 6-8 psi with that setup. (Again, this is assuming it's a small hybrid like a T04b v-trim wheel / BNR stage 1).

To run more boost, I'd suggest bigger injectors, a walbro or other larger fuel pump, a wideband & some kind of EMS to control fuel and timing.

evoentertainment

So with that, would a microtech, wolf 3d, MS, or any of the other standalone be a good fit? I'm looking for around 300 to the wheels. I have plans for upgrading injectors and pump, but I have no idea what size I should go or if I need high or low imp. Any suggestions in what type of injectors I should get? Also what do you mean by a wideband? As in like a safcII?

evoentertainment

So I just got word from the prev owner. Its stock hot side with a t04b or e cold side. He said its about a stage 3?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

A stage 3 BNR uses a 60-1 compressor wheel, and will be capable of making power in the 300-400 whp range, depending on other factors. That turbo will immediately blow your engine if you make 10-12 psi on it, with your current setup. I wouldn't even suggest the 6-8psi I mentioned before with this new info. There are too many unknowns.

Most people running larger hybrids use standalones & large injectors. I know some run 550cc primaries and 1600cc secondaries. If you use injectors that large, standalone is the way to go. Rtek stage 2s, while much easier to use, can only use ~1000cc injectors at the largest, so you would need to run a 4x1000 setup to put you in approx. the same fuel delivery range.

Basic list:
Standalone
550/1600 or 4x1000 injectors (low impedance)
Re-wired walbro
Wideband 02 sensor (ie Innovate LC-1, PLX, AEM UEGO, etc...)
FMIC or VMIC

The BNR thread in the dyno section along with the engine management & single turbo subforums will be the best place to look for information.

evoentertainment

Thanks for the in depth explination. There still some things I don't quiet get. First off, I have been running about 7psi with this setup for about 5 months now. Nothing has blown yet. Second, why do I need a wideband? And third, would if be efficient if I moved my current 720 to primary, and purchase new 1600 for my secondaries? And s4's uses low imp, right?

Sorry for all the noob questions.

evoentertainment

Oh yea why do you say I need to rewire a walbro? To my understanding, aren't they a direct drop in?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

That's lucky then, since the turbo you apparently have can greatly outflow the stock turbo.

It is impossible to tune it if you don't have a wideband, an EGT gauge, or both. Air/fuel ratios and exhaust gas temps can both be used to determine if more or less fuel is necessary.

You can run 720cc primaries just fine.

'86-'87.5 uses low imedance injectors.

S4 TIIs use a fuel pump resistor/relay to switch pump voltage down to 9V at idle and at low load. The fuel pump rewire I mentioned refers to removing it to allow only 12V at the pump. Not every car needs this, but it's a good safety measure. The walbro itself drops in.

evoentertainment

Thanks once again for your indepth correspondence to my newb *** questions!

With the rewiring of the walbro, Ill take it as it not being a "must do then?" But if so, is there a guide some where to do it?

I hate the fact that I purchased my car without any real knowledge behind rotary's. I'm pretty sure the turbo itself isn't a bnr turbo. But like I've stated above the prev owner said its a t04b or e "almost" a stage 3, with a stock hotside. What exactly does that mean?

and for the standalone, I was thinking a pfc or a microtech. To my understanding both of these ecu's comes with boost control and wideband add-on, right? Which means I wouldn't need my greddy boost controller anymore nor would I need to purchase any wideband controller, right?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Fuel pump rewire is covered in many threads. Just search the 2nd gen section.

In basic terms, a hybrid turbo will be stock with the exception of a larger/more efficient compressor wheel and/or housing. Read about the changes w/ the BNRs here: http://www.bnrturbos.com/2ndGen.htm.

I'm not the best person to give standalone advice, but some should have outputs for boost control and inputs for wideband data. But you will still need the wideband controller to interpret the data received from the 02 sensor itself. The controller does other things like heat the sensor & perform diagnostics too, so you can't just plug the sensor directly into an EMS.

evoentertainment

Thanks!

So in simple terms for me to get more power:

- upgrade fuel delivery (pump and injectors)
-standalone and wideband controller (would a safc II work? Or do you have other recommendations?) w/ tune

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Actually the first thing I'd suggest is posting some pictures of the compressor side of the turbo. It may help in figuring out what exactly you have. All of this so far has been assuming that 'stage 3' really means it's like a stage 3 BNR.

But the keys to any turbo upgrade are fuel and fuel/timing control. You can't use an SAFC for huge injectors, and it won't have any timing change capability. It's not a standalone; it's just a way to trick the ECU into changing fuel delivery. A standalone would be Haltech, Microtech, Megasquirt, PFC, Wolf, Motec, etc... I couldn't tell you which is best, since I use an Rtek 2.1. It's not a standalone either, but it's the next best thing & has many other advantages. But like I said before, if you use anything over 1000cc injectors, it won't be able to make enough correction.