primetimekenny

HI everyone, these are the current performance parts that came with my FC, and I was wondering how I could increase my N/A's performance without blowing a wadd of cash.
- Zanpaku Performance 18 way Adjustable coilovers ($900)
- New Tires (245/45/R17 all four corners) ($600)
- New polyurethane Bushings ($120)
- New inner tie rods ($30)
- Mazdatrix super angle kit ($150)
- New DOT certified Mazdatrix stainless steel brake lines ($100)
- Upgraded 929 Brake Master Cylinder ($100)
- Fairly new Brake Rotors & Pads (1 year old) ($120)
- Short shifter and custom Mazda shifter ****
- 5-speed transmission conversion
- Zero Level Motorsports Brake Brace ($60)
- Adjustable rear toe bar ($100)
- Suspension Techniques rear sway bar ($120)
- 300zx fuel filter
- 17 inch ASA wheels ($300)
- Stainless Steel Cork Sport oil cooler lines ($120)
- New OEM Clutch, Pressure plate, & pilot bearing ($200)
- New power steering & Alternator Belts ($30)
- Bomex Duel exhaust ($200)
- New stainless Steel Clutch lines ($50)
- New Clutch Master Cylinder ($75)
-Optima Yellow Top Battery ($200)

markuz93

Thats alot of stuff! The only thing you can do to squeeze more power out of this is to add a racing beat header to complement the exhaust. Unless you were to get your engine ported, which can cost alot. Honestly it seems like you have a solid build already lol

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

That is one good list!
The only things to add to that is to...stay with me..Learn how to drive,as it is one hell of a platform you have created!..or get a TII engine in that great foundation!

I'm not saying you suck at driving,it is just that you can't really improve any more with the cars mods.
So that leaves you and your techniques of driving or the quest for more power.

I am envious of what you got on your car and you have just acquired it!
It took me a couple years to even get half of what your car has on it now.
Anyways,good luck to ya.

Evil Aviator

It looks to me like you have just about everything covered for a street car. There are some more advanced modifications, but they would require that wad of cash that you don't want to spend, and most of them would not offer much performance gain. As mentioned above, your best performance gain is probably going to come from participating in your local SCCA autocross or other events that increase your driving skill.

I have not heard of Zanpaku Performance 18 way Adjustable coilovers. Regardless, the previous owner probably just slapped them on the car, so you would probably want to get the car corner-weighted at your local race shop.
Understanding Corner Weights: Grassroots Motorsports Magazine Articles

All FC RX-7s came from the factory with 5-speed transmissions, so what is a "5-speed transmission conversion"?

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

yeah, header at most and just drive it. Love learning the car and how it reacts now. I make a tweak, and learn some more. When I understand how all my tweaks and changes effect the car I will add more power.

(and when my wallet will let me rebuild my TII)

Evil Aviator

I see from your other post that you have an S4 car, so you may want to put that in your profile as opposed to the more generic "FC". Alternatively, you could state the year of the car. Either way, this will help people understand your situation because there are some slight differences between the S4 (86-88) and S5 (89-92) FC.

I also see from your other post that you were asking about the oil blend. Did the previous owner disable the oil metering pump (OMP), which would require you to add oil to the gas tank? This is very important to know, because if the OMP is disabled and you don't add oil into the gas tank, then the engine will eventually seize (sooner than later). If you do need to add oil to the gas tank then a good 2-stroke oil will work fine. In the regular engine oil sump Castrol GTX works very well on these cars, although any brand will work fine. Use the viscosity shown on the chart in Chapter 2 of the factory service manual (FSM). You can use the free 1988 FSM at this website, which covers 1986-1988 cars. The very beginning of the manual has a maintenance schedule. Follow the Normal schedule if you drive the car like a grandma in a clean environment, otherwise use the Unique schedule. Normal oil consumption is about 1qt per 3,000 miles, although the engine will burn through more oil than this if it is old and worn out.
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals

Although not necessarily performance-related, here are some items that I like to add/replace:
- Fumoto oil drain valve, F106, no nipple
Fumoto Valve | Qwik Valve™
- Replace the two O-rings below the oil filter base. These tend to crack over time and seep oil on the heater hose, causing an annoying pinhole leak that is very difficult to diagnose, plus the heater hose isn't cheap. Two are needed, Mazda part number 9954-10-1601 or Mazdatrix part number 10-1601-9954.
Atkins - Oil Filter Stand O-Ring Set (9954-10-1601)
Mazdatrix - Oil Filters, Oil Caps and Sending Units
- Replace the pulsation damper. It is overpriced, but it is good insurance if you do not know when it was last replaced. I found the best pricing at my local Mazda dealer, but below is a link explaining the problem. If you decide to replace the damper, order a new upper-to-lower intake manifold gasket rather than attempting to re-use the old one.
Mazdatrix - Pulsation Dampers
- Replace the broken S4 stereo panel and heater grille above it with the more durable S5 parts. The S4 parts get brittle and easily break after a few years.
Mazdatrix - Stereo Panels, Panel *****, Ashtrays, Panel "Pockets"
- Use synthetic oil in the transmission. The FC transmission is rather notchy with mineral oil. I like Red Line the best overall, although Royal Purple feels a little more slick. Any brand will work fine, although Mobil 1 has been known to eat the synchros so I avoid that brand. You can also use synthetic oil in the differential, but it doesn't make as much difference on a regular street/autocross car. If your local auto parts store, Wal-Mart, or Sam's Club does not have synthetic gear oil, you can order it online from Jeg's, Racer Parts Wholesale, Summit Racing, Pegasus Racing, Amazon, or other dealers.
- Check the rubber fuel lines for cracks. The cracks tend to appear on the lines attached to the fuel rails in the engine bay, and the fuel pump in the trunk area. Replace only with "fuel injection" rated hose such as SAE 30R9. Yes, it is expensive, but it will not burst and cause a fire like the cheapie fuel hose that is intended for low-pressure use such as with carburetors.

primetimekenny

Thanks alot for all the information, especially from you @Evil Aviator. I will upload more pictures soon and be more specific in future post. Oh by the way, my 87 was originally an automatic, so I can actually start her without even clutching in haha. Did every model FC model require a cold start assist , like is that a rotary thing???

anthonyP

Buy a luk OEM clutch kit. 120 for pilot bearing clutch disk and pressure plate

fexterz11

I agree with misterstyx69 learning how to drive a car properly can do much more in regards of time and speed than the mods that you have in.

If you are going to track the car, learning how to properly break (yes break.. lol) is a major learning pointer. Your setup os pretty great as it is. i'm actualyl jelly.. lol

nepopolus

why would he upgrade a new oem clutch.....he will probably never need one for the next 5-10 years atleast lol...Let alone a cheap clutch kit

learn the way the car handles and tweak that suspension. There is a ton you can do with adjusting it, and it is low cost with a possible huge gain.
Once you are used to the chassis and how it reacts at it limits and how to control it get a turbo engine. I would recommend not trying to pull power out of a 6 port n/a engine the cost of tuning this way is insane with little gain.

edit:all fc's have a cold start, and do not remove it

also as another side project for low investment you already have a optima battery, move that to the back of the car to clean up the engine bay and give better weight distribution. I would never recommend this for a normal battery but optimas are a sealed system so there is no worry for spilling acid all over your interior.

you could also delete your power steering and ac system if they are still there. Warning though the s4(86-88) have a steep steering rack to depower. I changed mine out for a manual rack, I would recommend the s5(89-91) power rack or a manual rack if you choose to have manual steering.

hella_wicked

thanks guys, this thread helped me alot also

skfury

Turbo swap

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

nitrous is cheaper