KrazyRX-7

Ok, so I have some questions about some of the electrical systems in our cars, YAY! Now be nice I am realy lame with electrical systems. I have installed a car radio/ sound system with subs befor, it went well but that is about all i have done befor. So here they are

1:I have the factory sound system in my car, the head unit gets power, turns on. All the the functions seem to work. im gessing that the speakers arnt getting power, all i hear is pops and cracks coming from the dash speakers. only reason i ask, im about to dump some money into a new head unit/speakers. but i would like to make sure there is not a problem with the cars harness, would be a shame to wast the new sound system when the car's wireing is messed up.

2: Im looking into replaceing the steering wheel with a Grant Challenger. I was looking and i found there is a CPU for the car horn?? Anyway when I change out the steering wheel i want to know if I will be able to get my horn to work with the new one.

I know these are pretty lame questions for you guys but thanks:P Ok here is the last one.
3. My idle used to jump to 3k, then 2(ish)k. then drop down to 750-800 rpms. now it jumps up when i start it to like 2.2k rpms, then it drops to around 1500 untell the car is at operation temp( 1/4 of the way up the gauge) then i kicks down to 750-800. from what i have read the 'thermowax cam' isnt working properly? am i on the right track? i have done a full tune up and it runs a hell of a lot better but still the start up is kinda weird. if you can point me in the right direction that would rock. thanks guys!!

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

1: You can take a multimeter to the speaker plugs to see if they're being powered. With the headunit out you can also test continuity from each side of the speaker wires. If it came to it, running some new speaker wire isn't that tough, and you could hide it well under the dash.

2: The CPU is a black box in the driver-side foot well, and it controls a lot more than just the horn. The only thing the steering wheel has it it is a wire that grounds to the bare metal when the horn button is pressed. This grounds a circuit that's routed through the CPU to the horns themselves.

3: The thermowax is only responsible for keeping the idle at ~1500 RPM, then slowly dropping it to ~750 RPM as the engine warms. The BAC and AWS supply the extra air needed to boost startup RPM to ~3000. If it's not getting quite that high, don't worry about it. Most people hate that system anyhow, and will try to disable it. It's there partly for emissions (to warm up the precat(s)), and partly for cold start assist.

KrazyRX-7

i love you man! thanks for the tidbits, i have been needing to clean out the BAC anywho... on the last attempt i found out that there is a coolant passage to it, ill get my catch can from work and that wont be a biggie. as far as the electrical, thanks i can manage all of those. but how can i tell if the speaker is blown once i have worked on the other bits? thanks