Hi all
I have a 93 that I had re build 14 years ago. I admit I do not drive the car at all in the winter and just a few days in the summer. I religiously started the engine every month to keep everything lubricated. I bet I don;t have 10,000 k (kilometers) on the engine.
I took it in for an ideal issue and the mechanic who did a compression test said the back rotor is miss firing in two chambers do to apex seal failing / sticking. They added a liquid to the engine that created a hell of a lot of smoke..I mean a hell of a lot.
Conclusion:
they said the engine needs to come out and re built again.
I took the car home with tears in my eyes ( no joke ) I hit the hwy and ran the car as hard as I ever have maxing the rpm through every gear. It seemed to pull like a champ. They said by doing this it may un stick the apex seal ? Ideal is still crap.
Am I creating more problems if I continue to drive it?
For the British Columbia members the shop I am dealing with is saying 10,000 for a re and re.
14 years ago I did a re and re with rebuilt turbos for 8,000.
Anyone have a price to get this done.
Thanks
Joe

 

Drive it, see if it comes back to life

I would guess they pored in MMO to try and clear the carbon out and free up the apex seal (hope they didn't use trans fluid)

You yourself may be able to fix the issue, take a jug of water and have the engine suck the water from the brake booster hose while its running, it will help to burn the carbon off, which for how much it sits by the sounds if it, it has alot of carbon buildup

Idk what 10K is in USD, but that sounds close, but i would think it would be cheaper as in it probably only needs new soft seals, and cleaned up then put back together

 

Thanks for the reply
I will google where to find the breaker booster hose.
Are we talking about performing this at ideal or reving the snot out of it?
For how long?
The 10K is Canadian. they say 2+ days to pull the engine?
This engine like I said rebuilt has less than 10,000 k (6000 Miles)

 

call Force Fed ..
they deal in Rotaries in BC.

 

You said it has an idle issue, and that can be many things (not just compression). It's possible the shop misdiagnosed it. I don't own an FD, so your engine is very different from mine and I wouldn't be able to tell you where to start. But if you search for your symptoms on the forum, see if other people have dealt with the issue and maybe you will find it is a simple fix.

As for the water treatment, you have to do it at idle BUT to keep the engine running while it inhales the water you may need to push on the throttle linkage with your finger (or have someone sit in the driver's seat and use the pedal to keep it running).

 

Is there an advantage to use water over say MMO or ATF ?

 

Yes, water is cheap, usually free

 

Can this water thing work on a first generation RX 7 12a

 

it works on any internal combustion engine.....except maybe diesel, it may be bad for that being how high of compression they run.


Hell, I had a lawn mower the other week that the valves were so carboned up that it would backfire and shoot a foot flame out've the muffler when you shut it off

filled up and spray bottle up with water and pumped it into the carb, did it till it stopped puffing out black smoke, quit backfiring and being a flame thrower

 

Going back through my bills on the 93 I found my engine and turbo re build bill back in 1998. The car had 153,000 kilometers on it when I had it done. It has 220,000 current.Only 67,000 kilometers on this rebuild and I'm having this issue. WTF
Including the rebuild to date I have spent $18,000 just to keep it on the road. Add thst to the price I paid for the rx and its is not an investment for the faint of heart.
Is 97,000 kilometers high enough mileage to warrant another re and re?

 

you can get a brand new engine for $3500 and the engine R+R should be no more than about $1000. that is USD, so convert to canuck moneys and add a little for shipping costs.

so yeah, $10k is nutso.

 

Thanks for the rely. Can you recommend a company I could research this through please.

 

i was a little off on the price or they raised it since i last checked, one or the other.

https://www.rx7club.com/ir-performan...lable-1108947/

still much better than the price quote you got.

 

A liitle gun shy on this procedure.
take a jug of water and have the engine suck the water from the brake booster hose while its running,
Where is this booster hose located ( picture if possible)
thanks

 

I found the thread.....
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...thread-949720/

 

dont use the brake booster, the FD has 2 nipples on the UIM that are easy to access and will ensure you don't pump too much water into the engine. it IS possible to haudrolock a rotary but it is difficult.

the brake booster line also only leads to the rear rotor, so you'd only be cleaning 1 of your rotors.