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I'm not stupid, I'm dumb and I identify as an idiot
Doing a coolant system upgrade... ffigure I should probably replace/eliminate the AST, but - here's my heroically stupi question; where exactly is it? I can't find any reference to it in the FSM
Also - has anyone here installed the PR airpump delete kit?
no flames here. this is a safe zone for new members, so ask whatever you need to ask. you will get help as long people who have the answers see the thread.
until better help gets here, i can try to get you started on your AST question. i think you're looking for the fill cap near the alternator, then follow the lines from that neck to whatever tank (or tank-link object) the line leads you to.
Sgtblue will likely come to answer your questions, i'm just here pretending to be him to warm up his chair.
Stealing this from j9fd3s in another thread, but here are the part numbers you'll also want to order for the AST hoses: The one from the Radiator to the AST is N3A1-15-184A, and the one from the AST to the Thermostat Housing is N3A1-15-183A. the other one is the overflow, and its not usually replaced, although you should blow into it, they like to clog, its N3A1-15-383
If you decide to delete the AST, this gives a good basic rundown of what to do. I highly recommend NOT using rubber ‘caps’ to plug the nipples on the neck and radiator. Use the hose/bolt method with a clamp or in the case of the filler neck, you can even remove the nipple before drilling and taping the hole for a npt plug. https://www.rx7.org/Robinette/coolant_tank.htm
I would also recommend this billet neck over the stock plastic FC neck mentioned above. A little more money but superior IMO. Billet Aluminum Filler Neck
Just a screen shot off the net showing a STOCK ast. And don’t beat yourself up over the confusion. On page E-3 of the FSM it’s referred to simply as the “radiator cap”. Regardless, all-metal versions are common and usually trouble free. If you have one there’s probably not a lot of reason to delete it. Just inspect and replace any suspect hoses, maybe replace the caps and t-stat with the coolant and your done.
Pretty sure everyone has given a good insight on the Air Separation Tank as above, but you're looking for this plastic time bomb. Usually mounted to the Intercooler.
Replace it with an upgraded one like this, or you can do the delete process.
Now, onto the Pineapple Racing Air Pump idler pulley.
It's a simple remove and add process, but does come with a couple of things to be mindful of.
- I wouldn't recommend removing the Air Pump if you are in a state that has strict emission laws.
- Removing the Air Pump is also not a power gain or reliability modification what so ever and can affect the idle of the engine on the stock ECU which causes the engine to idle overly rich, greatly increasing the chance of flooding and spark plug fouling. Idle speed adjustment may also be necessary.
- Only consider removing it if you have an after market ECU or don't have any other choice (don't have an air pump already, air pump bearing has failed, gone single turbo, high flowed Y Pipe, etc...)
1. When removing the Air Pump, there are some air pipes that will need to be capped (One on the Stock Airbox and one on the Upper Inlet Manifold.) This can be done with a couple of 1 1/2" rubber coolant caps.
You can also buy a blockoff plate kit from Mazdatrix or Pettit Racing to remove all the emissions gear on the inlet manifold. You will want the "complete" kit as the standard kit doesn't include a piece for the port I've shown, or buy just the block off plate for this one port (or make your own like I did).
2. There is a port that will need to be blocked off on the rear of the Upper Inlet Manifold (also shown in picture above) or install the blockoff plate kit.
3. The pulley doesn't need to be tightened all the way in, it screws into the bracket for belt alignment. If you have stock pulleys, the supplied belt will fit fine, otherwise you will need to take a trip to the auto parts store for a different length belt.
Also, depending on your thermostat housing, you may need to use a metal file to clearance the underside a little for the belt to not rub against it.
Howzer did a good video outlining the install, as well as clearancing the thermostat housing if a video helps more for you.
Thanks for the help fellas - damnedest thing - I had to ask where the AST was because, the previous owner explained that he had bypassed it, but it was information overload and more than a decade ago... this upgrade made me wonder about it and sure enough I can't find it -The rad was actually upgraded years ago and it's not on the inter cooler nor is it in the pile of parts
It didn't occur to me earlier to clarify that PR in this instance referred to petit racing, They sent me the directions for it - which would've been super helpful printed with the kit or linked from the product on the website
The problem there was that I didn't realize that the kit supplied pulleys to completely replace some of the stock pulleys and I had it in my head that one of them would take the place of the air pump pulley albeit in a different place leaving me with the same number of pulleys.
I worry that the supplied belt is going to be a tight fit. I worry about the bolt on the tensioner pulley; given how **** the mount is to breaking at the bolt (Ive already had two break on me).
10-23-20, 07:56 PM
AST question.... I'm st00pid
