I got this car. 88 n/a very body, s5 T2 block, s4 87 T2 ecu, afm etc... It has an aem injector driver box but I'm not sure if it's wired correctly. The primary injectors won't fire on thier own. I've pulled the CAS and rotated the bottom gear with the key to the "on" position and fuel connector jumpered to test the injectors. The pump walbro 255 pump works and builds ample pressure but won't spray the injectors. Any wire one of these injector boxes in thier turbo 2 car? If so is there any wiring diagram for this EXACT install. The aem installations don't tell me what I need to know. I need to know exactly what wires go where as I'm not sure if it's hooked up right

 

It appears that this unit is legal in California only and is designed for race cars. You might want to ditch this unit and use inline resistors so as to return the operation of the injectors back to its original intent.

And is this the instructions you have:

http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images...%2030-2710.pdf

 

I live in a place with no emissions laws so I'm not to worried about the law lol. But I wish I could find the FJO unit to install instead of the AEM. I'm not sure where to find the resistors or how to hook them up. I don't even know if the AEM box is working?!?! But the car runs so I'd imagine that it works. And yes those are the instructions I have but the original owner has the box wired to the light green injectors wires, would this be the correct wiring?

 

You could find the resistors at your local Radio Shack. There are two wires which run to each injector and one set would have the resistors wired in to each of these four wires and you can choose either the power wires to wire the resistors in or you could choose the wires from the ECU as it doesn't matter for both ways would work just fine.

It appears that the Pink wire connects to the Light Green, Brown to the LG/B, Orange to the LG/W and Dark Green to the LG/R wire. This assumes that #1 and #2 are the primaries.

And you have the battery connected to your fuel pump w/the cut switch?

And the real point of using this injector unit is not really whether it's legal or not but why is it designed for race cars only.

The resistors should cost less than $5.00 w/tax.

 

Oooo ok. I could do that I got a boat load of resistors and stuff like that for fixing guitar amps... Do you know what value resistors to use? And yes the fuel pump is wired to the battery with a on/off switch.

 

10 ohms and they normally look like a rectangular box.

 

10 ohm but how many watts?

 

10 watts.

 

Ok great thanx! I'm gonna do this for sure. I'll be back with the results

 

Omg satch your the friggin man!!!! Took off the AEM driver, wired up the 10ohm resistors put it all back together, and change my oil metering lines while I was at it, turn the key and Like magic the car starts on its own!¡!¡! But it feels like it has less power without the peak and hold driver... Is the AEM driver supposed to be wired with the in line resistors? Just a thought but thanx thanx thanx!!!!!

 

If it was designed for low impedance injectors then chances are the resistors would be of no help but I guess anything is possible. And you need to take care of your Thermosensor issue because the car won't run properly throughout all the different scenarios that the car will encounter. So you need to measure the resistance on the Green/White wire to see if it checks out okay and go from there.

 

Yea I'm gonna get back on that water thermo sensor. But I'm glad it finally starts!!! Thanx to your help satch

 

Quick thought... If the peak and hold system is really just for while revving a motor to it high rpm and holding its peak injection, wouldn't hooking up the peak and hold system to the secondary's be most effective? To leave the primary's hooked to the resistors and hooking up the AEM driver to the secondary's?

 

Any thoughts???

 

Bump