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Any "must have" reliability mods for rebuild?

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Old 09-25-18, 11:12 AM
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Red face Any "must have" reliability mods for rebuild?

Soon I a going to send my engine away and i was wondering if there are any decently priced mods that I should have the builder do while the engine is away. The car has a single turbo running at about 17 psi i was thinking better dowel pins and maybe 3 mm apex seals. Any input would be great thanks in advanced!

Last edited by diabolical1; 09-25-18 at 12:58 PM. Reason: added quotes to title
Old 09-25-18, 11:56 AM
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Stay away from 3mm seals unless you want to ruin your housings

For sure get it studded, well worth it and will help hold up if you decide to go for mow power in the future

Get the cooling jacket mod done for sure

Oil pressure mod if you don't have it

Knowing what you already have for mods would help is too
Old 09-25-18, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by lduley
Stay away from 3mm seals unless you want to ruin your housings

For sure get it studded, well worth it and will help hold up if you decide to go for mow power in the future

Get the cooling jacket mod done for sure

Oil pressure mod if you don't have it

Knowing what you already have for mods would help is too
unfortunately im not too sure whats in the motor from before except for a street port but thanks and also what is the oil pressure mod I am still very new to a lot of stuff with rotarys, thanks for the ideas though!
Old 09-25-18, 12:55 PM
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Welcome to the board.

Lduley pretty much said what I would have had to say on pinning and the 3 mm conversion.

For clarity, what block are you running? Your "single turbo" verbiage makes me think you're using an REW, but I won't assume. It you have one, then you're good. If you do not, then get an REW rear regulator and shim your front or use an REW front. You can also have the passages done as well, but that will be up to your builder's knowledge and skill.
Old 09-25-18, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by diabolical1
Welcome to the board.

Lduley pretty much said what I would have had to say on pinning and the 3 mm conversion.

For clarity, what block are you running? Your "single turbo" verbiage makes me think you're using an REW, but I won't assume. It you have one, then you're good. If you do not, then get an REW rear regulator and shim your front or use an REW front. You can also have the passages done as well, but that will be up to your builder's knowledge and skill.
Is there any easy way to identify the blocks im pretty sure that it is a rew at least thats what the add for the car says but i cant be sure obviously but is there any easy wat via the vin or an engine code on the block or do i have to get the engine its self out?
Old 09-25-18, 06:25 PM
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+2 on nixing the 3mm seals.
+2 on the trailing plug coolant passages

What shop are you sending it too? Are they a rotary specialty shop? Do they have a good track record? If so, have you put this question to them? If they're experienced with a good track record talk to them about your goals and what you intend to use the car. And some decisions may need to be put off until the engine is apart and you know what you're dealing with. I'm not a single turbo owner but I suspect a stroll thru the single turbo section on the forum for a few evenings, especially those stickys, might be worthwhile so you have some knowledge going in as to the return for your rebuild dollar. https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/

Last edited by Sgtblue; 09-25-18 at 06:29 PM.
Old 09-25-18, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
+2 on nixing the 3mm seals.

What shop are you sending it too? Are they a rotary specialty shop? Do they have a good track record? If so, have you put this question to them? If they're experienced with a good track record talk to them about your goals and what you intend to use the car. I'm not a single turbo owner but I suspect a stroll thru the single turbo section on the forum for a few evening, especially those stickys, might be worthwhile so you have some knowledge going in as to the return for your rebuild dollar. https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/
Not going to lie i have no clue what shop its going too so far the engine rebuild has been organized through the previous owner since he knows the guy im getting the rebuild for dirt cheap from what ive heard the guy worked at a high class rotary shop and is now doing it on his own but im not sure of the full story obviously im gunna ask a little more this weekend before i bring the engine up to pa. Also i didnt even knew that sub form existed so looks like ill have to take a stroll through there and see whats up.
Old 09-26-18, 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by tjdj009

Not going to lie i have no clue what shop its going too so far the engine rebuild has been organized through the previous owner since he knows the guy im getting the rebuild for dirt cheap from what ive heard the guy worked at a high class rotary shop and is now doing it on his own but im not sure of the full story obviously im gunna ask a little more this weekend before i bring the engine up to pa. Also i didnt even knew that sub form existed so looks like ill have to take a stroll through there and see whats up.
Honestly, this sounds like a train wreck is in your future. You bought the car and it needs a rebuild. Now just bite the bullet and get it done right by someone who will stand behind the work...not a "buddy job" arranged by the PO with some guy working out of his garage. This shop is a long time forum sponsor with a good reputation and probably fairly close to you.... About Us | IR Performance

Last edited by Sgtblue; 09-26-18 at 05:27 AM.
Old 09-26-18, 09:46 AM
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If it's a REW, i would be careful about doing the oil pressure mod if it bumps up oil pressure. Not sure if it's needed for your application.
Old 09-26-18, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by tjdj009
Is there any easy way to identify the blocks im pretty sure that it is a rew at least thats what the add for the car says but i cant be sure obviously but is there any easy wat via the vin or an engine code on the block or do i have to get the engine its self out?
I'm only going to speak on USDM factory turbo blocks. Also, keep in mind that people build all sorts of "Frankenstein" concoctions, so again, the following assumes an engine in it's factory state.

S4 (13B-T) - the easiest outward tell is the lack of provision for knock sensors, and the engine mounts from the intermediate housing, mechanical MOP (metering oil pump), V-groove belts, regular clutch

S5 (13B-T) - now I know at least some of them have provisions for knock sensors (just above the Trailing plugs) *I don't know if they ALL did though*, these mount from the center as well, electronic MOP, V-groove belts, regular clutch

S6 (13B-REW) - knock sensors, mounts from the rear housing, the secondary intake port runners are notably taller than the primaries, serpentine belts, timing (crank angle) sensors on the front cover, pull-type clutch, reversed-rotation water pump, electronic MOP
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